As Nodge said you need to check your EML codes as well it might help in diagnosing the no start

Did the rpm on dash show anything when you turned it over Ive got a feeling the cps wiring could be damaged as it’s very exposed

little jimmy wrote:

Thanks folks. I will have a go at you tube, as I'm struggling with google. I assume that if I can set the camshaft using an 8mm pin, I will then have to figure out what position the crank should be in.

Boxa. Thanks for following. It looks like I have about 300rpm when I turn over, which would suggest that the new crank sensor is working ? As you can see on the photos. I took off the crankshaft pulley bolt by using the old timers method of using a belt, rather than the proper way. My concern is that I might ? have caused the timing belt to jump some teeth when doing so ? I am hoping that if I have, I might not have moved the timing enough to cause the valves and pistons to meet, but in truth I don't know.I certainly didn't hear any strange noises when I tried to start it, but I may have now done some damage ?
I don't have either a code reader, (well only a cheap One that does not seem to read) and neither do I have a compression tester.
My thoughts are that if I was to remove the starter (looks like a pain, but needs must)and the timing belt cover, and try and manually turn the engine. Even using Two 8mm drill bits (until I can get the right kit) I should be able to see if the flywheel and camshaft are lining up with the holes. If they are, then to me it would suggest that the timing is ok ? any idea if that is right ?

Thanks Jules. Typical, if I had done some more research before, I wouldn't have used the old belt method to crack the crank bolt. Knowing my luck I will have caused a load of damage. Any idea if my above post would give me an indication of if my timing is ok ?

I changed the timing belt on our 2008 car, and found the Crankshaft bolt tight, as its a stretch bolt. I used a De-walt 1200 ft/lb impact driver to move it with an 8mm drill shank holding the flywheel. The fibre timing wheel behind had a large key slot in it, which meant I had to put pins in all the top pulley holes and time the fibre disc to tdc. If the fibre disc has spun, it will be loose on the crank end, one to watch if the auxillary belt went behind the Camshaft belt. I have heard these can snap if the belt tensioner pulley comes off and the belt flys off under the adjacent cover.

did you mean 3000 rpm not 300 as I said before you need to check the timing before you go any further and even a basic code reader should give you the fault codes are you sure your using it correctly with the ignition on ?

disconnect the battery and remove the starter its an easy job and is accessible from the top, the shredded belt may have damaged the magnetic ring behind the crank pulley, but start with timing check first

Bit late in the day now, but in the morning I am going to strip a few bits off, wind the engine by hand, put a pin in the camshaft, and see if the hole on the flywheel will also accept a pin. In my head that will at least tell me if I the timing is ok ?
I will keep you posted.
If I have bashed the valves with the pistons I shall go into a corner and simply cry.
Either that or I will be on here asking what sort of a job re-doing a head with valves etc might be.

Just had a pal drop round with a cheap code reader. just a cheap One similar to mine. It did do a scan, and showed NO codes. I appreciate that these cheap readers will just do generic codes, and not manufacturer specific codes. I will crack on with trying to check out the timing tomorrow as post above.
Thanks again for the help and support.

the cambelt looks ok in the pics but you never know until you check the timing don't start crying just yet you won't have bent any valves removing the pulley so relax and take it one step at a time my money is on it being something simple

Cheers Boxa. I will report my findings tomorrow

So..... Anybody who has read so far...I've had a thought (dangerous)... What if something else caused my car to stop the other day, and the aux belt starting to spread was just something that was also happening in the background ? This morning I've had the DTC codes read...I got Two codes. One for the crank sensor, and another, P02E0-13. Diesel intake air flow control - open circuit. I understand the crank sensor One, which obviously I have replaced. Because of the other One, I decided to take off the Throttle body assembly. It looks seriously knackered to me. Is it possible that that is actually what caused the car to stop, and not restart ?

The throttle body being open circuit will stop the ecu from starting and damaging the engine I know this as ive had this problem and it took me a while to track it down, you have replaced the crank sensor and checked wiring so hopefully a new throttle body should sort it out I bought a pierburg from GSF £144
and it is a simple job to fit clean both sensors while your there just be careful I used brake cleaner on mine and everything was ok,

Boxa. you are a star. just ordered a new TB. Should arrive tomorrow. I will fit it and see if the old bus will start. What do you think of the One I removed. Defo been on from new, as although it's a 2009, I have had it since it was just a year old. So that TB has got 139k on it.