So now I need your kind folks help. Timing belt looked fine around the bottom cog of the crankshaft. As previously said, I took the pulley off the crankshaft, cleaned all the bits of aux belt that had got in there. Cleaned the crank sensor, put that back on together with the pulley. I've got a cheap ob2 reader, which said no codes, but did a clear anyway. Reconnected battery obviously, and tried to start. Turned over but not starting. For info, I used the old timers belt method to get the crankshaft pulley nut undone, as I don't have the kit, pins and flywheel locker. Help please. Where do I go next ?

So you can see why the old aux belt was shredding. The tensioner was starting to fall apart. Some of that shredded belt got behind the crankshaft pulley. I'm an old git, and I've heard pistons meeting valves before. No decernable noise when turning over, or would there be ? Help, I'm gonna cry.

This is why when you replace the cambelt its recommended to do the Aux belt and all tensioners and pulleys and the water pump at the same time. Jules

I may be wrong but I thought that if the crank sensor is faulty then the engine wont even turn over.
The fact that it turns over means that the sensor is OK ?
Am I correct ? Jules

Not a clue Jules. Hoping I can get some advice on here. I am wondering if it could be that there are some codes that are stopping the car from starting but allowing it to turn over. perhaps the cheap obd11 reader that I have is not good enough. At the moment I can't go any further until I get some advice.

As you smart young people who understand computers can see.... When I put the ignition on I have the engine warning light come on together with the battery, oil, and seatbelt lights. Might it be a case of, I have to get rid of the engine management light, before the car will start ? I don't think that my cheap as chips obd reader is actually reading anything. When I follow the instructions with it connected, and press scan, it immediately says no codes. No time delay as if it is actually communicating with the car computer.
Just putting as much info as I can in order to try and get some help.
When I turn the engine via the crank pulley with a spanner, I believe I am getting two tighter spots on a revolution. That would suggest to me that I'm getting compression unless the inlet valves are open, or the exhaust valves are. I know I must sound very old school. That's because I am. Give me an o

ld 1975 Daimler 2 door coupe any day of the week. These new cars with blinking sensors, and computers have me so confused. Any help offered is greatly appreciated.

Far easier to work on for us old boys

little jimmy wrote:

So, I have taken off the crankshaft fully, and cleared the bits of shredded aux belt, and given it all a clean. I have given the crank sensor a good clean, and put bit back on.
I'm going to put the crankshaft fully back on. Connect the battery, and see if the Blinking thing will start.
Hopefully, the shredded bits of belt that got in there haven't caused the timing belt to slip.
Please keep your fingers crossed if you are reading. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for coming back to me Nodge. Because I didn't remove the timing belt, I can't have altered the timing can I ? The cam and crankshaft have always remained connected throughout what I have done today, have they not ? That does not mean that the timing belt has not jumped a couple of notches when the problem first happened. Really appreciate you input and help.

Hands up if you think that my shredded aux belt might have damaged my crank sensor... If I replace it would anybody know if I have to clear any outstanding codes before the car might start ? Thanks in advance for any help offered.

A hard battery reset might do the trick after changing the sensor. Basically disconnecting pos and neg and touching together for about 30 seconds to a minute, of course, without contact to the physical battery or vehicle body. Neg is ground.

Thanks Motionink. I will get a new sensor GSF about £25 in the morning, and try the hard reset. Thanks

little jimmy wrote:

Hands up if you think that my shredded aux belt might have damaged my crank sensor... If I replace it would anybody know if I have to clear any outstanding codes before the car might start ? Thanks in advance for any help offered.

That CPS looks pretty ****** up to me!

When you crank the engine you should see about 200rpm on the tacho, if it's working!

The CPS rarely sets codes in my experience, it should fire right up once you change it, hopefully.

This is what it's supposed to look like, look how yours is damaged in comparison.

Click image to enlarge

 (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
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