The mechanic is now fairly certain it's a wiring issue, possibly due to corrosion. He'll check it out in greater depth next weekend.

You should think about changing fuses and relays

They get corroded over time

Click image to enlarge

Paul,

I finally heard back from the mechanic, who basically suggested what you suggested a week ago. He think water might have gotten into a relay and is freezing.

Do you remember where you bought your replacement fuses and relays?

. Get a new relay for the bad one I bought a Wells 20999 (But a Duralast 20999 should work fine https://www.autozone.com/electrical-...20999/448812_0 )

Other sources for the relay

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wv...wer+relay,2944

I've been running the Wells 20999 in my LR2 since 2012 and it starts every time.


I will search for some more links

I’m using my phone not my laptop so everything is small

Thanks

Paul

WELLS became WVE (Wells Vehicle Electronics)

The new part number is

WVE 1R2395

Search for that number

Good luck

Paul

Gray Relay

Land Rover - Relay part number

LR003751 (if you go to the dealer you will need this number)


Cross reference - drop in replacement part numbers

1R2395

20999

Thanks for the links, much appreciated.

Further discussion with the mechanic revealed that he did actually replace the relay for the starter motor, but the issue persisted. He thinks some other relay/fuse/wire is at fault and that freezing water is definitely the problem, but my best move is just to find a warm place to store the vehicle and hope the water dries up. The starter solenoid didn't have water in it.

The vehicle's back with me now, so as I try to find a warm place to store the vehicle, I'll try my best to fix this..

From what I understand, relays have a moving part inside them that freezing water could actually cause to fail, whereas fuses do not (correct me if I'm wrong).

So my question now is, what other relays (in this fuse box) could be causing a no-crank?

Luckily landroverpartsdirect.ca has all these relays and parts for dirt-cheap so I might just do what you did, and replace everything.

Have you checked starter fuse which IS above battery +, at positive cable. Look My latest topic on crashed freelander. My fuse was broken

I'll go check that right now.

Alternatively, could a frozen " stop lamp switch" be the culprit?

j00ppis wrote:

Have you checked starter fuse which IS above battery +, at positive cable. Look My latest topic on crashed freelander. My fuse was broken

Marcus97 wrote:

From what I understand, relays have a moving part inside them that freezing water could actually cause to fail, whereas fuses do not (correct me if I'm wrong).

So my question now is, what other relays (in this fuse box) could be causing a no-crank?

Marcus97 wrote:

I'll go check that right now.

Alternatively, could a frozen " stop lamp switch" be the culprit?

p_gill wrote:

Marcus97 wrote:

From what I understand, relays have a moving part inside them that freezing water could actually cause to fail, whereas fuses do not (correct me if I'm wrong).

So my question now is, what other relays (in this fuse box) could be causing a no-crank?

You are thinking about it the right way.

Just remember the starter solenoid can be though of as a very high power relay, so a frozen starter solenoid could be the problem as well.

You are correct that the fuses don't have moving parts but a corroded fuse can prevent the voltage from getting to the relay that is needed for turning on the relay.

The relay has a low power side that is turned on by the engine computer if the low power side doesn't deliver enough volts to the relay then nothing happens. (you are already familiar with this)

I would replace the relays and fuses because they could contribute to your problem and they are cheap.

It is possible that you have a bad ground but I would fix the easy things first.

Good luck

Paul

Have you checked to see if it's getting the correct amperage. You can get 12 volts on a single strand of wire but it won't carry the required amps. I can't remember what it should be but that is why I changed the main cables. Internal damage causing lack of amps. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

The whole reason for the extra earth strap mod that was done by early FL2 owners and was adopted by Land Rover for later cars. One of our forum members spent 2 years with multiple visits to dealers and many parts changed for the cause to be found to be an earth cable that had the copper conductor almost totally corroded away.