I did install and extra ground cable from the battery - to the chassis (but not from the starter to the chassis),
If my problem occurred above zero I'd be much more inclined to think this might be grounding issue and then go through the effort of adding a ground to the starter itself, but it really is limited to below 0c

Anyhow I managed to salvage a set of relays yesterday, so I'll be installing those today.

So all the "new" relays have been installed and no change.
That said the vehicle does start after maybe 20-30 depressions of the start button, alternating with foot on and foot off the brake. So maybe something has improved, or maybe I've just hit on the right technique for getting it to crank (eventually).
Once the car does starts, I can start and stop the engine (on the first try) any number of times, as long as I don't let the vehicle get to below freezing.

That said, when it's cold, the starter does have trouble getting the motor to fire (sometimes up to 10s of cranking). Symptom of a bad starter? Or not not enough amperage/bad grounding?

At this point I'm ready to just accept my fate. This LR2 is an absolute pleasure to drive, and with only 94,500kms, I think I may have a great vehicle for the next 15years if I treat her with love. Not bad for 9k CAD.

I replaced my starter for the 3.2 around its 10th year

And I did notice that it started faster.

I recommend that you consider replacing the starter.

I second that recently replaced the starter on a 300TDi Defender that was reluctant to start below freezing, new starter cured it. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

Hmm..one more trip to the scrap yard then for a new starter!
Or does anyone know a good source for an OEM starter?

Is there anywhere you could get your starter checked and repaired? its most likely the contacts in the solenoid. 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

I would get a new BOSCH starter

SR0826N

Bosch Web site

https://www.fleet.boschautoparts.com/p/100-new-starter-sr0826n-

OE Number
LR029180



Rockauto has it for very little money

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+r...motor,4152



Just search around for
SR0826N
or
LR029180


Note: SR0826X will work also but it is remanufactured not new

Good luck

Paul

Here is a link on this site to my post regarding my own starter issues

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37354.html

At the end of the thread is the part number for the updated starter for the TD4e.

"Denso part number DSN1208 (428000-6910)"

I ended up finding a second hand one from a low mileage Evoke for around £40 if my memory serves me correctly.

Hope this helps.

Marcus has the 3.2

Helpful if his car was in his signature! I

p_gill wrote:

I would get a new BOSCH starter

SR0826N

Bosch Web site

https://www.fleet.boschautoparts.com/p/100-new-starter-sr0826n-

OE Number
LR029180



Rockauto has it for very little money

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+r...motor,4152



Just search around for
SR0826N
or
LR029180


Note: SR0826X will work also but it is remanufactured not new

Good luck

Paul

Rommel wrote:

Is there anywhere you could get your starter checked and repaired? its most likely the contacts in the solenoid.

So I bought a new starter today from rockauto (thanks Paul!).

A few questions...

1) I should check if the starter relay is getting 12v between the "small terminals" when attempting to crank, to know whether my problem is in fact with the Start Procedure (although this seems unlikely). Assuming I am getting 12v:

2) I could bypass the starter solenoid by simply touching the incoming positive wire to the starter motor itself? If the starter spins, that means the starter is likely fine and the problem is almost certainly the solenoid itself, or the solenoid circuit? If the starter doesn't spin, then the problem is 100% either 1) the starter motor itself or 2) corrosion causing insufficient amperage to actually crank the motor, correct?

3) To test the solenoid circuit, I could bridge the appropriate "large terminals" where the relay plugs in to bypass the starter relay and activate the starter solenoid, which should cause the the starter to spin?

Small update for anyone following along...

I tested the voltage at the starter relay, and as expected, I'm getting 12v between the larger terminal, and around 10v between the small terminals when attempting to crank (I assume it's lower because the battery is under load/trying get a frozen starter to turn).

My new starter should be arriving in a few day...very much looking forward to installing it.

New starter has been installed. The car turned over for 2s longer than I'd hope for on the first try, so I'm nervous how it will behave when it's -10c. I'll keep you updated.

If this hasn't fixed it, I'm really at a loss. Fuel issue?? The wires all look fine..