I have come very late to this party ! I have a 2010 reg/2011 model SD4 HSE with very similar problems to previous posts. My fault is poor to no throttle response, but only when the weather is warm. I usually get caught out in traffic queues, roadworks etc when there is a lot of idling, I touch the throttle pedal and there is no response, foot flat to the floor and it may start very slowly to pull away, get a bit of speed up and we are away. It's a bit scary at roundabouts and busy junctions ! But most of the time it's ok and drives very well in the colder months. I bought the car in January 2020 and I've had problems for over 3 years.
There have been no fault codes, and it has been examined by 2 local independent garages with no luck.The throttle pedal assembly has been replaced as has the throttle body, auto box oil changed.
Today was very warm and I was caught in very slow moving/stopped traffic up a steep hill, and on several occasions when I tried to move away, foot flat to the floor nothing happened, into neutral revved the engine seemed ok, into drive (did this a couple of times) eventually got away. Later I had juddering when reversing and slow manoeuvring. Not expecting much from you clever guys but I am getting a bit desperate. Cheers

Sorry if I’m being a party pooper it there isn’t a solution, Ive had the problem 12 years not been able too solve it . So many posts on the subject but no solutions. LR have washed their hands of the problem years ago . Love the car but why I’ll never have another JLR product

I haven't had a FL2 for nearly a year but occasionally come back to see how you guys are getting on (I drive a petrol DS now) .
My son had a 2011 FL2 and experienced the hesitation problems described here which LR never managed to fix (the main dealer told me that they had three customers with the same issue and LR support couldn't get to the bottom of it) so my son decided to get a Mitsubishi L200 pickup as he lost faith in the FL2 and he needed something reliable for his job. So I decided to take over the FL2 as I was retired and my wife and I drove it for over a year (ie though summer and winter) without experiencing any problems at all which makes me wonder if there is a driving style issue here? ie whatever the fault is it might show up more readily depending on how you drive the thing. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Yes a heavy right foot and the problem goes away, but it’s not really a cure is it if you try and drive economically

This was my first post on the forum and I didn't realise that so many had this problem. The foot to the floor expression I gave was not full throttle, but flat to the floor with nothing happening and the car moving forward as if it was in limp mode. My wife thinks i should just sell the car but my conscience won't allow me to pass on a potentially dangerous car. I know it's problems and try not to drive on hot sunny days, which means i can drive nearly every day Believe it or not I do like the car and this is my 3rd Freelander. My Freelander 1 I had for nearly 14 years and 174,000 miles, great car

Hello RP51 BOB & anyone else reading,

I did my first post on freel2.com 23rd July 2024 on the ‘Throttle hesitation around 2000rpm ‘ heading.
A quick look at my post……have had similar problem with my 2012MY SD4 auto every summer for the last five years. I have looked on lots of forums, lots of owners have had various items changed, some with success others not. It’s such a strange fault, but it has never caused a breakdown on my FL, and we travel to the south of France in summer (FL2 very rare there ). We left UK on the 18th September, the same day you had problem, the car stuttered a few times as soon as we got south of Paris……..but ok.
I went out to a hyper market yesterday 24/9 at Perpignan (Wine Fair was on), no problem until I came round an island & I realised it had gone on to Limp-Mode…..first time ever, nothing on dash except small arrow marker on left. Revved to 2200 rpm only. I stopped, luckily I recently purchased an Autel 200 diagnostic
( after reading good reports on freel2.com). I found the usual ‘ghost codé B100A-15….a LR mistake, & more relevant P006A-00 MAP/MAF discrepancy. I erased the fault codes & started off again….back the Limp-mode…..which wasn’t too bad since the SD4 pulls so well, & I changed gear manually…climbed up the mountain road quite well, got home ok. Checked DTC’s……same again P006A-00. I spent a few hours today checking wiring to sensors, turbo hoses etc.took MAF & MAP sensors out…..looked ok………I checked prices to replace, about £150……so will take a chance since they are an easy fit & order them…….unless anyone has any ideas ?
This is the first time I have had a recurring fault code…..nothing on dash except little arrow….no MIL lamp
Don’t think it’s turbo prob…runs too well…no smoke….same for EGR….can’t figure out why it’s temperature related……….& I’ve seen no explanation on the forums…..a real strange one !

If you’re a tad heavier with the right foot the problem doesn’t materialise.After twelve years of trying for a permanent cure, that’s the only one I know, … pathetic isn’t it 🙄🤬

Hi CÈDE,

You could be right…..I know this hesitancy / stuttering didn’t seem to happen if you ‘booted ‘ it.

But why does it only happen in summer….or above 19-20 deg C…… ?

Also the FL is my car so I have to pay all costs…..sort of encourages one to motor steadily…..

Plus side: good fuel consumption 35mpg……still on original brake discs….3 pad changes….3 tyre changes

154k miles……. Very little trouble…….apart from this dammed stuttering / hesitation….. !

Happy motoring,

Pete

Hi Pete you are not alone in bafflement on this. I tried several things over the summer, and although it maybe behaves a little better now the problem was still there before temperatures dropped into the “safe” zone again.

From my investigations there seems to be some link to the EGR system, in that when I temporarily blanked it off (obviously I’d never think of doing that permanently…) the hesitation went away! Bad news was I got RP51BOB’s problem of no power from a standing start all the time, and that just wasn’t acceptable. I tried a blanking plate with a small hole but couldn’t find a happy medium so EGR is now back in operation.

My wonderful local Indy actually swapped a brand new EGR valve in for me and it made no difference, so they swapped my old one back and didn’t charge for it. Great service but bang went another good idea. I have put EGR/Throttle body cleaner through since then and maybe (maybe) it was slightly better afterwards but not cured.

It’s unforgivable that LR never got to the bottom of this, but from my dealings with their parts department it’s sadly not surprising. Half the time they know the parts catalogue worse than I do.

If you have any joy with the sensors please let us know, though I suspect it’ll be spring before it’s warm enough to be sure anything has worked!

Hi Scarecrow,

Thanks for reply,

What I can’t understand is : Why does a few degrees temp rise cause this problem…..?

Have ordered Map / MAF sensors from Rimmel Bros …..1/2 price of same parts available here in S. France

even with postage….! Hope to receive next week …..won’t take long to fit….will see….

If Limp-mode not cured….then a slower trip back to Oxon…..!

Your local indi garage was really helpful…..swapping then refitting….incredible…esp these days

As I have read on multiple forums, owners have taken their FL in for check to be told “ it’s the turbo”

New turbo fitted….same prob…..they don’t put the old one back on…p’haps 2 grand spent…….’sorry mate’

As I put on my 1st post 23/7/24……being retired mechanic I don’t like to jump to conclusions….best to try

& think it through………had the problem for about 5 yrs…..but only in midsummer…….why ? I thought

It can’t be anything too serious……….so I haven’t changed anything….until now….when I can see the DTC

The LR dealers are a waste of time…..I have read loads about RR engine probs when they just change the

engine…under warranty.. when they are guessing….turns out problem is still there £10k later……just gets

JLR a bad name…….which they certainly have now.

Our ‘hestitation / stuttering / loss of power problem’ is no big deal but why couldn’t JLR recognize the prob

& say what it is…… ?

Would be really interested to know why 5deg C ambient temp change would make such a difference…..!

If I can’t sort it ‘wanna buy a good winter car’ ????

Prefere if it works cos it’s a great car……!! ‘On verra’ as the French say…….

Will report next week…..Pete

Last edited by OxonPete on 26th Sep 2024 7:37 am. Edited 1 time in total

I can't find my original post, but I had a problem several years back that gave me intermittent loss of power, normally after coming (and waiting at) a set of traffic lights, following a 20 - 30 mile motorway run.

Although I had no OBD codes I could cure the lack of power by Double Locking and Leaving the car for 20 mins or so.

The fault was extremely irregular and lasted several weeks, then went away before I got it to the Dealer.

Some time later I had simular? problem occur twice in a more extreme way (LIMP HOME) and had Turbo Actuator Error Codes. These were confirmed by the AA and my car taken to dealer under my LR Extended Warranty. They cured the problem by some type of Turbo exercising program.

I have not had the problem since. Someone on this Forum suggested that the EGR tends to clog up the Turbo Vane Ring, exercising it. frees the 'Sticking' Actuator.

My post on Turbo Actuator problem
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39340.html?highlight=turbo FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

A small post about my story with Crankshaft sensor.

3 years ago, when I had just bought my freelander, i noticed the typical judder occasionally. Just a single hiccup, then driving like nothing happened. Read the forum, found the cause (sensor itself), ordered VALEO sensor, replaced it. Then, on my next trip after sensor replacement, after 50km car just started juddering like crazy and stalled. I managed to start it back up, but then it stalled every 2 minutes. Managed to get the car to nearest workshop, they couldn't fix it, so I asked just to install back the old OEM sensor, and give the car back to me. TO MY SURPRISE - the car drove fine, no juddering, and it was like that for 3 years.

Last week the juddering started again. Not the crazy one, just a one small jerk every 10-15 km. Removed the sensor, cleaned it, cleaned the wiring (although nothing seemed to be corroded etc.). Attached the sensor back with 30nM force on 10mm bolt, also used the zip ties to hold the wiring in place. I have done 150km since then, and it seems to be fixed now. I have ordered a new BOSCH sensor, I keep it in the car as backup. Weird.

The sensor, wiring, connector or the reluctor ring can cause problems.

However it's usually the sensor that needs cleaning or changing, a new sensor may be faulty as bought. Also there are two types of sensor according to MY

I would, to avoid stripping the thread in the sensor holder only put 7-8 Nm on a 10mm bolt.

I'd vote for the connector having trod the replacement sensor route. The issues normally start after some reason to disturb the connector (cam belt change etc)
Interim fix is the 'squeeze' the pins in the plug such that exert a bit a lateral force when reconnected .
The real fix is to renew the pins , you'l find a post on how to do this.

Hi OxonPete and all, I had the Freelander serviced yesterday and when I picked up the car the mechanic,who knows all the problems I'm having, said he'd fitted a OEM fuel filter instead of a Britpart part. The fault code B100A-15 was in the memory,which he checked out on the internet which also mentioned about possible fuel filter problems, a very common fault across most forums and "one theory on Landyzone is that some aftermarket filters have the thermostatic valve missing, sending hot fuel to the engine causing the ECM to go into safety mode. So only use genuine LR or OEM filters with the word Perflux on top". I'm not expecting miracles but for the price of a filter it's worth a punt! As the car only seems to play up when the ambient temperature is high, I should be ok till next summer