I used Amsoil Severe Gear oil 75W90 in both the front and rear "diffs"..........I filled to level or just below (vehicle was level on a hoist) on both the PTU and rear diff and that's it. Folks will take out 50-60ml but I don't. You will have issues sucking out the PTU oil unless you get the right angle (5 to 6 pm) for the suction hose. Smaller the better.....

The diffs have different spec oils

Front diff (PTU): "JLR recommends Castrol BOT 118/95+ LR003137"
I use Smith & Allan Geartech FS 75w-90

Rear Diff: "JLR recommends Castrol EPX"
I use Smith & Allan Geartech EP 80w90


I'd also warm the diff before trying to pump the oil out - its quite viscous when cold. Take the FL2 for a run or use a fan heater on the diff. Jules

In my opinion, the lower number on gear oil is more relative to climate temps. 75 is more viscous at lower (colder) temps.

Lots of debate on the net, here is just one article:
https://www.fleetequipmentmag.com/skinny-thinner-gear-oil/

Also, when I first got my new to me Canadian 2008 LR2/FL2, I actually ordered/bought the PTU gear oil from LR.............they sold me 75W90 for the PTU. I returned it because I can get Amsoil Severe Gear oil for way cheaper .

Bobupndown wrote:

Having never got around to changing my diff oils yet at 77k I figure it's about due. I have a small 12v fluid pump (lidl's finest) presumably this would be suitable for sucking out most of the old oil? Have considered but haven't got around to the excellent diff drain modifications and if the suck out method works I probably won't!
Is front and rear diff oil of the same spec?

I added a drain plug while I was rebuilding my replacement diff.

I can't see how it can be overfilled anyway, at least not by a huge amount, and I reckon a few extra ml of oil in there can only be a good thing, as the tail bearing doesn't get nearly enough oil.

I use this oil in all final drive components, although the bottles are upright in the real world.

Click image to enlarge

 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I am a big fan or both Amsoil and Liqui Moly.....the engine Ceratec is very good stuff used annually.
The si6 runs even quieter with both Amsoil and Ceratec.

Hi,
and for those with a Manual gearbox

"Time for a change of the oil in the combined Manual gearbox and front diff

In the cars manual it shows as Castrol BOT 350 M3 = MTF97309 = GL4 75W80 and has a capacity of 2 litres"

Note its 80 and not 90 or 95 as always its still your choice what you put in

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf

riverblanche wrote:

Hi,
and for those with a Manual gearbox

"Time for a change of the oil in the combined Manual gearbox and front diff

In the cars manual it shows as Castrol BOT 350 M3 = MTF97309 = GL4 75W80 and has a capacity of 2 litres"

Note its 80 and not 90 or 95 as always its still your choice what you put in

I just don't understand why owners don't drill and tap the base of the differential and fit a drain plug - 10mm or 12mm tapped hole, easy enough to do, it's the only way to guarantee that all the tiny metal particles have been removed from the diff. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Andy131 wrote:

I just don't understand why owners don't drill and tap the base of the differential and fit a drain plug - 10mm or 12mm tapped hole, easy enough to do, it's the only way to guarantee that all the tiny metal particles have been removed from the diff.

Not all owners are skilled at such things, just like not all owners can change the various fluids.

I fitted a magnetic drain plug to mine, while it was out the car for its rebuild. This way I could clean out all swarf from the drilling and tapping operation.

It's definitely worth doing, which is why I did.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Your diff case is aluminium, a magnet won't pick up aluminium swarf. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I forget sometimes that not everyone has a garage full of tools and a passion for fixing stuff - thank goodness that we all have different talents, otherwise the surgical team that gave me a heart bypass might not have been so successful. But I am sure that a local independent garage would be capable of the job.
You wouldn't believe the amount of glitter that comes out with the oil change - mine every 12,000 miles and yet the diff was still quiet and working well at 185,000 miles - fairy dust? Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

I drained mine with a Lidl 12V pump just a few days ago, had to use the small size pipe (about 6mm) for pickup and fiddle with it a bit to get it to pick up from as low down as possible, (why they didn't fit a drain plug is beyond me, presumably the bean counters at work.)

The old oil was pretty mucky, in a way this was kind of welcome and raised my expectations of reducing the noise from the presumed worn input shaft bearing, which it appears to have done, I know I'll have to replace it eventually but I'm happy if I can get a bit more time out of the old one.

Bobupndown wrote:

Your diff case is aluminium, a magnet won't pick up aluminium swarf.

No it won't, but as the aluminium doesn't wear in normal use, the magnetic plug collects any steel particles that might get removed from the gears under normal use.

Andy131 wrote:

I forget sometimes that not everyone has a garage full of tools and a passion for fixing stuff - thank goodness that we all have different talents, otherwise the surgical team that gave me a heart bypass might not have been so successful. But I am sure that a local independent garage would be capable of the job.
You wouldn't believe the amount of glitter that comes out with the oil change - mine every 12,000 miles and yet the diff was still quiet and working well at 185,000 miles - fairy dust?

It's an easy thing to forget.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

CliveS wrote:

I drained mine with a Lidl 12V pump just a few days ago, had to use the small size pipe (about 6mm) for pickup and fiddle with it a bit to get it to pick up from as low down as possible, (why they didn't fit a drain plug is beyond me, presumably the bean counters at work.)

The old oil was pretty mucky, in a way this was kind of welcome and raised my expectations of reducing the noise from the presumed worn input shaft bearing, which it appears to have done, I know I'll have to replace it eventually but I'm happy if I can get a bit more time out of the old one.

Nodge68 wrote:

Andy131 wrote:

I just don't understand why owners don't drill and tap the base of the diff

Not all owners are skilled at such things, just like not all owners can change the various fluids. .

Hi both,
I think a lot of owners just wont see the need, unless you are keeping the FL2 for a fair few years or do lots of miles realistically they may only change the diff oil once or twice in their ownership, every 12k is good preventative care and it is a good mod to do but as you say unless you Enjoy the engineering side of things, its just easier to spend another 10 mins to suck the oil out.
Our FL2 had done 100k when we bought it and doubt it had been changed before doing only 3-4k miles/year I will consider doing it again in 5 years time unless I find where I put my tap and die set although they could be Whitworth as it did come for my Grandad then it might go on my "To Do" list

 .
my first ever FL2 and I did keep it longer than most other cars!
But its now gone way up Norf