DougallsFL2 wrote:

To remove the cooling fans you only need to unclip the fan wiring loom (3 clips) and one multiplug, the fan assembly is quite large and drops into two brackets at the bottom of the radiator and the two top clips need to be released, be careful not to damage the radiator when lifting the fan assembly out of the way.

haynes manuel now do a freelander 2 workshop manuel?

Eurolandy wrote:

Evening all,

Might seem like a stupid question, but is the engine oil change on a FL2 TD4 2.2 Ltr a straightforward job (As nobody appears to make a manual its better to ask, never know with new cars). I always like to change the engine oil every 6K and I’ve covered over 5K since I took delivery last summer.

I’m thinking basically, undershield off to drain the oil (conventional hexagonal engine oil drain plug ?), spanner (27mm ?) on the oil filter housing to remove the paper filter (I assume the filter is better removed from below), new sump washer, filter and oil and job done?

I’ve read reports that some garages sometimes skip the filter as it’s difficult to get at.

Does anyone have any recommendations for engine oil? I used millers 10w - 40 semi – synthetic on my FL1 TD4. Don’t know if Millers make an equivalent oil for the FL2 TD4 (I think Halfords do to a FORD spec, 5W-30, as listed in the handbook).

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Chris
2007 TD4 GS

Time to revive the thread - it seems so short .....

I don't think I have seen anyone recommend leaving the oil to drain over-night. I usually get a further half litre out doing that. From when the dribble turns to a drip. You won't get that from any kind of paid for service. That's 5-10% of the oil not getting changed by most garages.

No, it won't do any harm* not to do this, but for all us who like to change our oil often, it's just another way to get a good clean out of sooty oil.

*when I say "no" harm, that is probably not quite correct - soot is mildly abrasive - any dirty oil left will cause ever so slight added wear over time. Such finickiness will just mean your bearing surfaces will outlive every other part of the car. It certainly will not do any harm to get that extra half litre out !

Just on with doing a oil and filter change today. First time to change the filter myself as I recently got hold of a 27mm ratshit spanner. Rode the RH Wheel up on a couple of wood blocks and not as bad to do as made out. Will change just the oil again in 6 months time at around another 6 thousand miles.

Cleared the service message using the Brazilian method (if you need to ask do a search).

At around £1 a week for new oil its a lot less than my weekly bar bill.

Got o say the OPIE discounted Freely2.com service is A OK. Put in order Sunday night and here by lunch today. Yorkshire oil from Millers coming all the way back from the deepest South.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

"Cleared the service message using the Brazilian method"

How would trimming the edges off the muffler reset the service light?



(Our US friends will understand this ............... the brits may think I am being rude )

So, done the oil change - some additional little pointers for folk:-

Same places for sd4 as td4 - I was wondering, no one seemed to have commented on this before.

Not super hard, but if I had not read through the thread already it would have been different - as it was I could not see the filter initially. And I had pre-bought my ratchet spanner - without, impossible.

Drove the car onto 6" breeze blocks (extra thick, widest face down, concrete, not thermal blocks), stuffed some axel stands under "just in case", chocked the wheels, put handbrake on and in park. (My meteor helmet wasn't available unfortunately ). Cautious yes, but what a stupid way to die, crushed under your own car, so over-caution seems fine when it's so easy to do.

Hard bits for me were:-

Getting the ratchet spanner over the bolt - there is a "handy" retainer clip that does help keep it on, but only helps AFTER you've pushed in over the bolt head; it makes things harder to start. I have big hands and some dexterity issues, so others may have not find this so hard.

Filter was damned hard to unscrew - really tight - took most of my strength. Seemed to be gummed up with sludge. (LR serviced 2500 miles ago/6 months ....) Gave that a good clean and lube and it screwed back in easy as pie.

I found that the filter I was taking out was LR030778 and the one I had to go back in was LR001247. Two and two together - filter never been changed, hence why so hard to get off and old part still on there. But I was wrong. In truth, the LR030778 is the newer part, but I don't know when the change over was made. Duckworth are still selling the old one - bit disappointed as if I had known I'd have bought the newer version - it looks more robust and must have been re-designed for a reason.

So fairly painless, but only I think because I had done my homework here first.

Bulletin Number: SSM72417
"ISSUE: OIL FILTER HOUSING CAP DIFFICULT TO FIT DUE TO O-RING/SEAL BEING LARGER THAN EXPECTED. CAUSE: OIL FILTER LR001247 SUPERSEEDS TO LR030778 WHICH IS SUPPLIED WITH A NEW SEAL. THIS SEAL IS SLIGHTLY LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE ONE SUP

The seal with my LR001247 seemed fine. No idea when this bulletin was issued.