Evening all,

Might seem like a stupid question, but is the engine oil change on a FL2 TD4 2.2 Ltr a straightforward job (As nobody appears to make a manual its better to ask, never know with new cars). I always like to change the engine oil every 6K and I’ve covered over 5K since I took delivery last summer.

I’m thinking basically, undershield off to drain the oil (conventional hexagonal engine oil drain plug ?), spanner (27mm ?) on the oil filter housing to remove the paper filter (I assume the filter is better removed from below), new sump washer, filter and oil and job done?

I’ve read reports that some garages sometimes skip the filter as it’s difficult to get at.

Does anyone have any recommendations for engine oil? I used millers 10w - 40 semi – synthetic on my FL1 TD4. Don’t know if Millers make an equivalent oil for the FL2 TD4 (I think Halfords do to a FORD spec, 5W-30, as listed in the handbook).

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Chris
2007 TD4 GS

Not done it myself but i believe the Oil to be 5W 30 Fully Synthetic.
Best of luck

If you wait until morning, I'll have a look at a past invoice complete with LR part numbers. It's certainly a Shell Synthetic they leave as a top up after the LR dealer robbs me blind. Still sitting in the passengers footwell.

I basically did my own oil change to my FL2 TD4 guided by the odd tip from members. Your right on the grade. I purchased magnatec 5w - 30 fully synth, from asda believe it or not, and because most seem to come in 4L now which is basically a con as most cars will need 5L something....I got 2 X 4L, that way you don't get stung for a 1L top up or maybe 2 X 1L top ups and you have all the top up oil you need. It cost me low to mid £40's for 8L of oil. By the way the same oil will go in a petrol engine these days.

Then go along to your local LR dealer and get your filter and importantly I think your copper sump plug washer that you certainly want to replace. Or use the oil sponsor off here, of course for your bits. The filter is the paper throw out type from a robust plastic housing which in my experience is not as common place as the tin type and is from my experience a right bas.......d to get to but with a lot of swearing is possible. You want to try and change your filter if you can. Maybe you could have a policy of changing oil regular but change filter every second time.....or maybe some would have reasons for advising against this, I don't know.

Then the normal procedure for an oil change. Nice warm engine. Don't forget to refit sump plug. Keep an eye on your re-fill level/leaks. Just double check everything.......then smile as you've just been kind to your engine and saved yourself a lot of money to a dealer change.

Yes its a little tricky to do. Sump guard off which is bolted in place. theres also plastic undershield trim to remove or you will struggle to get to the oil filter. It seems to me of all the places they could of fitted the oil filter they have gone and put it in the most hardest place to get at. You will best compleat the job if you have the front of your car up on ramps.
As you look at the front of the car from the front bumper the filter is to the left centre of the engine. The oil filter housing will be tight almost all the way off. there is a paper element inside which just clips in,be sure to keep everything clean.
I strongly recomend you change the filter every 12 months max as the filter takes a lot of abuse doing its job. If left for to long theres the chance it could start to decintagrate causing blockages in the engine lube system that could cause total engine failure, Expensive.
As the other chap has stated which oil and sump plug needed thats about it, have fun, saves a small fortune from what the stealers want lol

4Ltr Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 Fully synthetic @ Costco for under £20 inc vat

Help pictures taken by one of our russian friends.

Undershield bolts.


Oil filter and sump plug locations.


Oil filter close-up.


27 mm spanner and oil filter cover.


27 mm spanner close-up.


Best choice: 27mm flexible head ratchet spanner

Click image to enlarge

yer top notch A P

Gents,

Many thanks for the info and pictures (Alex). The filter seems to be the same idea as the Freelander 1 TD4 but a smaller nut (I had to use a hub socket on my old FL1 to remove the filter housing, no spanners in my toolbox that big – 35/36mm ish, from what I remember).

Thanks also for the tip about oil at ASDA, sounds a lot cheaper than the local motor stores (don’t have access to Costco, but I know someone who does). Around here (Fylde Coast), the motor stores own brand is almost the same price as the branded oil. It’s a Rip off.

Reassuring to know it’s not complicated unlike some other new designs on the road and I can change the oil in-between yearly services.

All the best,

Chris

superspark wrote:

yer top notch A P

Fully agree

Hello, new here and all this info useful already.

However is there a technique for getting the old filter out of the housing - or do I need to buy a new housing as well?

Thanks in advance

Good thread with those photos it's worth been made a sticky to help others Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Managed to find the oil filter ok and my 27mm socket fits a treat, but unable to attach the ratchet arm due to lack of space. Out with the 27mm ring spanner, and it is too long to attach to the filter. Before I rush out to purchase another 27mm ring spanner can anyone recommend a make or brand of spanner that is of a suitable length to attach? Is a 27mm ratchet ring spanner suitable, usually flat arm, and turn over to reverse. Sadly by this time i had drained the oil and had to replace as the car was needed. Ho-hum start again.

buy a cheapo spanner and saw it in two?

or http://www.metals4u.co.uk/detail.asp?cat_id=1480&prd_id=6951 At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

When i did mine i took off parts of the bumper assembly - the parts underneath not the main bumper - and found that I could get in more easily working from in front of the front crossmember.