I just changed the oil at 36000 km.
The oil used was the one below.
As you can see, this one too complies with both A1/B1 and A5/B5.
Also with WSS-M2C913B as specified by LR for FL2 in their documentation.

Click image to enlarge

Couple of ifs on the oil discussion. Provided IF you at least meet the required specs there's no harm in using a higher grade of oil. personally, mine got filled with 5-30W semi-synthetic oil at it's last dealer service.

This rather disappoints me for I used to do my own servicing prior to the now sold 57 plate VW California (dpf filter - yes) and haven't used anything but full synthetic oil going way back into the past century!

Dpf oil is configured to have a very low ash base to minimise dpf clogging and would "be the best oil to use" IF it meets the 5-30W spec and meets if not exceeds the standards laid down by LR.

Mine's a reg March 2010 (prob 09 build?) TD4e HSE model & no dpf. Coming from the dpf using VW California & more so seeing the difficulties no 2 son has with his 09 reg dpf based Polo, this was one of the first questions about the vehicle I asked of Matfords

Regarding doing the filter from below, there IS a way of doing it from the top of the engine bay, and it isn't that much more difficult (or easy....).

If you look down from above the front lefthand side of the engine, you can just see the 27mm hex. With a 27mm hex socket and flexi-bar (the type with a socket drive hinged through 180degrees at the end) then you have a 90degree swing on the filter head. It is still a so and so, but you can do this. What stops you from extracting the filter & head upwards is a small electrical bracket just level with the cam cover at the front of the engine. It is fixed with a torx screw, which doesn't matter, because you just bend the bracket upwards by 45degrees. Once you have done this, there is room to reach down the front of the engine and extract the filter & head. Working from the top means that you can do this on your driveway without any lifts or ramps, and that has got to be a bonus. It also means not disturbing the drive-clips that secure the intercooler pipework, which means not risking the whole lot blowing-off at the joint on the next family holiday....these clips are a bit feeble to re-use.

I have often wondered who on earth in LR Service signed this job off for production; given that the oil filter is the most important part of any service (alongside the oil), then it is just begging for dealers to skip the change. The whole package is rubbish, especially when you consider that a quick-release system on the cooling fan pack could make the job much easier. I have tried the oil filter change on FL2 in several different ways, and the method above is the one that works the best, but it's still an hour, which is appaling by modern standards. The only other vehicle that comes close to this one for poor access on the oil service is the Ford Maverick (where you have to virtually remove the LH engine mount to get the filter off.....)

The reason that changing the oil filter at every annual service is so important is that the O'ring that is supplied with the LR Genuine Parts filter kit (and everyone does spend the extra to have the best for their FL2, don't they?) that seals the filter head to the casting on the cyl. block - this goes a bit flat after a year, and can lead to terrible oil leaks if not caught in time. So it's worth the effort to change the filter, if only for peace of mind that you are not going to contaminate the in-laws driveway when you visit  The man who makes his living fixing Landrovers will never go hungry.

I get the filters change. but ask the garage for the waste oil so I can throw it at my sister in laws house  At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

When i did mine i took off parts of the bumper assembly - the parts underneath not the main bumper..
izmir

Cars never seem to be designed with the guy who has to work on them nowadays. Changing the oil filter on my TD5 90 was just as bad. The rotor change was fine but according to the manual you had to remove the turbo inlet hose and the manifold heat shield to get at the cartridge and even then there was naff all room to work.

I have always done all the work on my cars in the past but reading the FL2 manual on clutch change I think that when that time comes I will let some other poor sod do it! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

I like to change oil and filter, between annual services, have done this for years on various vehicles. I saw what i thought was a Mahle filter on e-bay and bought it. This company makes filters for OE, for some manufacturers.
Anyway, although the box was similar, in colour and print style, it did not say Mahle on it. I had a good look at the element, and it seemed ok, so i fitted it. Put in the usual Ford Formula F oil, and started up. The oil lamp was a bit slow to go off, and after i had checked for leaks, i found the oil light back on again. If you eased the revs to about 1000, the light went out, but returned as soon as the engine idled. Well, the only thing different was that filter, so i headed off to the dealers for a filter in a green oval box. Back up the ramps, a few more scrapes and scratches on my arms and hands, and the OE filter was in and all was well again. That'll teach me!!

Just done the oil change, not really a problem just unclipped the fan at the front and it slides out with a bit of a wiggle, you can even pop the plastic bracket off that holds the top hose on to get it out easier, once that is off you can get your arm straight down to the filter using socket and ratchet, have taken some photos but unable to upload as not that good with computers Whole job inc fuel filter change, top up of oil and cuppa half way through to allow oil to drain about 40 mins

Silverline 993058 27 mm Flexible Ratchet Spanner now £11.03 on Amazon with free delivery.

I do 7500 mile oil change but happy to let the filter go to 15000 dealer service interval (yes, I'm on extended warranty and that keeps it watertight - no get outs!). The clean oil at half way means that the filter is less loaded through its life and LR is happy for the full mileage with the same (getting dirtier) oil.

My own fill is Castrol Edge 5W-30 as opposed to Magantec. Others have spoken well of Mobil 1 Gone... 2013 XS TD4 Manual Firenze Red
Gone... 2008 (09MY) XS Td4 Manual Stornaway Grey
Prior... 2003 G4 Discovery 2, 1998 Disco 1 and 1997 Disco 1 Company car before that
Also gone in Nov'13, after 7.5 yrs, to new owners with time for more TLC - 1980 Series III 88
Current 2015 Discovery Sport HSE 2.0

Top tip especially with photos but would suggest a spanner with a flexi ratchet head, took me 5 min to remove and replace filter( once sump guard off)
Thanks again top man

I need a top up so did some research online,the Castrol site tells me to use 0w-30 when i put the reg in how strange.

Hi, newbie here. Anyone looking for oil. I purchased 4 x 5 ltrs of ford 5/30 fully synthetic oil for just under £68 (delivered)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/cart/view.html

I use a 27mm flexi head rachet ring spanner ( silverline ) just the job the filter can be removed from above but it is a bit tight
we are in the trade and we use morris oils Mulitvis F fordwssm2C913C

ok doing my first oil change on the wifes (new to us) 2007 fl2,is there a list of recommended oils ,the car is at 120k fsh so i would like to use a top quality oil to keep things going well.Just found some mobil 1 3000X1 fe fully synth wss-c spec ,will this do,any good ?