Hi all.

New to the group, only recently acquired my FL2, which unfortunately come with no history as its been lost.

Full service kit ordered and I'm gonna give the cambelt a go with a mate if mine. 144k it's on.

I was driving back home last night and noticed the rev meter ain't matching the engine speed. The engine was running fine and idling fine, but the needle was not matching the speed.

Any ideas? Here is a picture at idle. Engine was running fine by the way. 🤷‍♂️

No picture

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Get an obd device and use it to monitor the RPM. Though the danger with that is that it will be using the same sensor as the rev counter. You could use an optical rev counter.

Last edited by BossBob on 19th Nov 2024 8:51 am. Edited 1 time in total

Here it is.

Yes, definitely looks wrong. The obd device would confirm if it’s the rev counter in the binnacle itself or something in the cars electronics that’s sending a bad signal.

What OBD device woukd u recommend I get? I here that Autel 2 is good?

Try resetting the FL2s Electronics by doing a hard reset.

(Carefully removing the battery connections to remove any power to car and shorting them together to remove all residual voltage in system)

It might be worth unplugging and re-plugging the dashboard connector. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I have an Autel AP200, which is pretty good for your typical casual use.

If you need something more in-depth (but considerably more expensive), then a GAP IID tool.

Try the Autel first though, for sure

From the Repair Manual

Tachometer

The tachometer is located on the Left Hand (LH) side of the instrument cluster and displays engine speeds of up to 8000 Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) on petrol variants, and 6000 RPM on diesel variants.

The tachometer is driven by an engine speed signal, which originates from the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.

This signal is transmitted over the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus by the Engine Control Module (ECM).

The Central Junction Box (CJB) acts as a gatewayand transmits the engine speed signal to the instrument cluster on the medium speed CAN bus.

The signal is received by the instrument cluster microprocessor and the output from the microprocessor drives the tachometer.

Tachometer indicates engine speed in revolutions per minute (x 1 000).
In normal driving conditions the engine is most fuel efficient between 2 000 and 3 000 rev/min FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

So worth looking at changing the crankshaft sensor for sure.

Is it easy to get to the back of the connector? I can also try the soft electric reset.

Crank sensor is a 5 min job, as long as you can get under the car, you don't need to remove anything, just the one bolt holding it in, and the connector plug on it. I'd also get some contact cleaner spray and clean the connector going into the crank sensor.

I used this one: https://www.gsfcarparts.com/fac9-0458 - which has worked fine for me for the past few months, you can search up on the forum though, there's a number of different ones recommended in various threads.

Last edited by CDFH on 20th Nov 2024 12:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Surely if the engine is running ok the CPS is working correctly?