Boxa wrote:

I connected a pump to the green fuel return pipe on top of filter and sucked fuel through

I’ve just bought a primer bulb and will replace filter and try again

Hi everybody well had a full day today bought a primer bulb and pipes also decided to replace the fuel filter as the old one looked like it had been there a long time, Anyway after a lot of tinkering to make the primer tool I managed to get the pump to go hard doing it the JLR recommended way even though there was a couple of little bubbles remaining in the clear pipe up to the pump I could not bleed it anymore so decided to leave it at that, tried to start it and still no start. Anyway after cleaning up the diesel spillage and tidying up and a mug of tea I decided to plug my scan tool into it and have another look at things to see if I could try to see what was going on, The fuel rail pressure still only rose to a maximum of 0.73MPa when cranking so I decided to look deeper into my scan tool and found this

would I be correct in assuming if the ECM thinks the throttle body is closed and it would not let the engine start hence low fuel rai pressure ? I decided to remove the throttle body and have a look and this I what I found


can anybody more knowledgable on these cars tell me if my suspicions are correct

The ECM is smart enough to prevent fueling if there's no air available to burn fuel. The rail pressure your seeing when cranking is likely just what builds in the rail while the fuel pressure regulator is open to pass fuel back down the return. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

thanks for that I've now fitted a new throttle body and all the grinding and motor spinning noises have stopped but car still won't start so after spending many hours researching on the forum I dug a little deeper into the low fuel pressure and found this

I also did a voltage check on the plug and it receives 8.97 v with ignition on
Im fairly sure that the another member say resistance should be about 3.6 ohms
Am I getting closer ?
what you say about the fuel sounds right to me if the valve is open pressure can't build

not so sure now he gets the same ohms reading and I connected it to power and its definitely clicking loudly when energised
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I'm totally baffled now no fault codes where do I go from here

Did you set the correct gap for the cam position sensor? Have you connected all the wires to sensors and solenoids, like the one on the bottom of the fuel pump? Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Ok everybody here we go I checked all plugs to all sensors etc and also took the MAP sensor out and gave it a clean, double checked everything again and decided to give it another look on live data to check rail pressure and IT STARTED and ran like a sewing machine no smoke ticked over lovely only thing is ive got little pools of diesel collecting around 3 of the injectors I think its the injector feedback Orings joining the feedback pipes ive got some spare seals so fitted them but im really struggling to connect 2 of them is there a trick to doing these as they are very very tight to clip together

Putting the clips back is a reversal of taking them off, They must be in the open position when you put them back

I think its the o rings they came with the gasket set ill get some genuine Bosch ones on Monday

Boxa wrote:

Ok everybody here we go I checked all plugs to all sensors etc and also took the MAP sensor out and gave it a clean, double checked everything again and decided to give it another look on live data to check rail pressure and IT STARTED and ran like a sewing machine no smoke ticked over lovely only thing is ive got little pools of diesel collecting around 3 of the injectors I think its the injector feedback Orings joining the feedback pipes ive got some spare seals so fitted them but im really struggling to connect 2 of them is there a trick to doing these as they are very very tight to clip together

well even though when I removed the old throttle body it was in the open position the ecm was being told it was closed so it possibly was in no start mode, I can't real think of anything else I did that would have made any difference unless it was the fuel regulater and it unjammed when I tested it on 12v ?

Maybe the TB butterfly was open, but the feedback potentiometer was still returning a butterfly close signal?
Or maybe one of the many electrical connections wasn't fully seated?

At least it's working now. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Yes diagnostic reported Closed position so I think that was probably the reason for no start