Thought I might give my experience on how I solved a similar issue I was getting with throttle hesitation on my fl2 2007 manual. Went through it all, cleaned egr, serviced the whole lot, but eventually found it was the throttle body. Removed it and opened the cap to find it was full of oil, which indicated there was an iffy seal. Apparently this is pretty common. Cleaned the oil out to see if it made a difference and it was 100% better till it filled up again. Replaced it and has been working perfect for the last year. The other issue with them are the teeth can wear down and cause an issue. Not saying this is the issue, but worth a look.

The problem that most people have is temperature related, ie above 12c approximately. Members have replaced everything imaginable, sometimes with a temporary reprieve, but never permanent. I’ve had my HSE ten years now and have resigned myself to the fact there is no permanent cure . If Landrover could not cure it , what chance have we got . Some Fords and Peugeots have the same problem, as did my Transit Connect, occasionally.

Wrong thread replied to 😣 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

[quote="rotweiller"]i have a 2011 fl2 s td4 my scanner is showing some dtc,s it coughs and jumps into limp mode,
B100A fuel pump authorisation bcm current once the dtc,s are cleared it returns to reduced engine performance (limp mode)it is now only showing data concerning my fuel pump

Click image to enlarge

CED wrote:

The problem that most people have is temperature related, ie above 12c approximately. Members have replaced everything imaginable, sometimes with a temporary reprieve, but never permanent. I’ve had my HSE ten years now and have resigned myself to the fact there is no permanent cure . If Landrover could not cure it , what chance have we got . Some Fords and Peugeots have the same problem, as did my Transit Connect, occasionally.

Alas, less issues with an additional earth, however not fixed.

Time to pick apart the EMS and figure out whether the issue is no fuel, too much fuel, something open too far, closed too far or just the outcome of meanness within cheap coding like that ever stopped a modern car... Statistics, where one can be one, two.

Hello to you all. What an amazing thread this is.

I have a problem with my Freelander 2, which means that it has been sitting on my drive, taking up valuable space, for two and a half years. Everything seems to be in order, except for the fact that the engine rotates but will not fire up. No error codes and and 4 garages later, I'm about to scrap the car. I would be most grateful for any ideas that you may have as to why my car does not work. Here are some notes I've made.

Freelander 2 Breakdown Description

Prepared : Richard Harker
Date : 30th May 2022
Version 2.0

My car is a Land Rover Freelander 2 HSE TD4 2.2L Auto 2008: 93,429 miles.

First Reg: 30th September 2008
Colour : Metallic Black (Santorini) with Black Leather Seats, Panoramic Sun Roof, Roof Rails, Sat Nav, and Side Steps.
Tyres : 235/60 R18 on original LR Rims.
Engine Code: DW12BTED4

On Monday 26th August 2019, my car broke down, on the road from Lourdes towards Pau, in France. The traffic was slow. The previous day we had journeyed from Andorra to Lourdes across the mountain passes of the Pyrenees. During this part of the Journey, the car gave a little shudder, twice. It was a hot day, 30 deg +. I thought nothing of it.

When the car broke down (the next day), it was simply a case of the engine cutting out, and the car rolling forward to a standstill, with no power steering and no power assisted braking. An immediate attempt to restart the car, at the side of the road failed. After 5 mins, I tried again and the car started as normal and off we drove. Five minutes later, the engine cut out again, and we glided to the side of the road. An immediate attempt to restart the car failed, again. But, a wait of five minutes, and off we drove with the engine sounding quite normal. I decided to drive into the next garage A.S.A.P. We found a Norauto garage (a bit like a Kwik Fit), a few miles down the road. I parked the car near the service bays, and the manager kindly let his engineers work on the car. A mechanic drove the car into the workshop. There seemed to be nothing wrong with the car. No error codes were detected. Then the car just stopped. No error codes. Then 3 mechanics got to work. I authorised the fitting of a new Diesel fuel filter, just in case the Shell top grade fuel I bought in Andorra was dirty. The fuel was pulled through by a machine, and the engine re started. The Camshaft sensor was pulled off, cleaned and replaced. The fuel flow from the diesel tank was checked by removing the feed to the filter and throttling the engine. It was OK. All seemed to be good. So, I drove round the industrial estate and back to the garage, and then we set off for our campsite. The cut out happened again and then we set off again (after the 5 minutes rest) and finally the engine cut out on a roundabout. So, we called the RAC European Assistance number.

The car was taken to a garage in Pau, France, by a recovery truck. The garage there said it was working properly. After all, it was driven off the recovery vehicle by their mechanic. No error codes on the OBD 2 reader. Your car is working fine, said the mechanic. Just wait, I told the mechanics. A few minutes later, the engine just stopped. The mechanic tried to restart the engine. I said he needed to wait 5-10 minutes, and it will fire up just like normal, and it did.

The above scenario was repeated at a Diesel/Bosch specialist (but, not a proper Land Rover Garage), in Tarbes, near the Pyrenees. They quoted €900 to change the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. This was changed to €850 when I informed them the Filter was changed the day before! Anyway, the fuel pump was changed, and that did not solve the problem (but charged €1200 ish ), the pump they replaced was the one in the fuel tank, which is only used to transfer fuel from the near-side tank to the off-side fuel tank, which is separated but a ‘saddle’ over the prop shaft. Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank to the fuel filter by Vacuum, this being created by an electric ‘Lift’ pump situated under (or in) the High-Pressure Fuel Pump Unit that feeds the Common Rail.

Later, a Land Rover Specialist Garage back in the UK tested the car. They removed and tested the High-Pressure Fuel Pump, the Fuel Rail system, and removed and tested the Fuel Injectors, and did all the usual diagnostics on the car. The above components were all replaced with spare parts on a working Freelander 2 they had. They also checked out the electrics, but to no avail. Finally, after 10 days effort, they called in an Auto Electrical Specialist. So, 4 garages could not get my car to work, and had no idea why. As a last resort, I went to the local LAND ROVER Franchised Main Dealer, who told me that they had no technical equipment to analyse faults on a Freelander 2, and, even worse, no mechanics who had worked on a Freelander 2!

So, is anyone out there who can tell me what is wrong with my car, and how to fix it?

On Friday 25th October, my car was repatriated, and is now on my drive.


I would be most grateful for any thoughts on this unsolvable problem, before I scrap the car.

Richard



Hello Sid. Sadly I have not been able to get the car going. Actually that's not quite true! with the help of a neighbor, who sprayed some COLD START into the intake box, the engine did fire up , until we stopped the spray. So, it does work with 'ether 'as a fuel, but not diesel. I've primed the fuel system, too. My diagnostic reader reports NO error codes. That said, I did a DATA STREAM on the COMMON RAIL Pressure sensor, whilst cranking the engine, and it report a pressure of 0.48 MPa. This I assume is 0.48 Mega Pascals, which is 480 KPa (kilo pascals) of pressure, which is about 5 atmospheres, a high pressure but not as high as it ought to be, which is up to 1200 Atmos, I understand. Maybe I'm getting my knickers in a twist .... and talking rubbish. So, I am thinking that may be there is a leak in the common rail, caused by who knows what - a faulty gasket, a faulty injector ( staying open all the time?) ... this is all a bit out of my depth.

Help! Freelander 2 HSE. Santorini Black. Roof Rack, Running Board, Auto.
[/b] Freelander 2 HSE. Santorini Black. Roof Rack, Running Board, Auto.

CED wrote:

The problem that most people have is temperature related, ie above 12c approximately. Members have replaced everything imaginable, sometimes with a temporary reprieve, but never permanent. I’ve had my HSE ten years now and have resigned myself to the fact there is no permanent cure . If Landrover could not cure it , what chance have we got . Some Fords and Peugeots have the same problem, as did my Transit Connect, occasionally.

What was totally bizarre is that this summer my FL2 has been hiccuping and burping as normal around 16C+ but on 38C day it was absolutely fine.... go figure.

Yes I’ve had the same, have posted about this a few years ago .

Hi there new to forum but I have 2011 model and was experiencing the shudder in high temperatures outside. I blanked the EGR valve with the blanking plate with the hole in it and shudder has gone plus it seems more responsive pulling away. By the way great forum.

I’ve been chasing this symptom around the front end of the car since last summer, followed every piece of advice I’ve read, and even engaged a helpful specialist to do some stuff. It all came down to this - the prop. It’s going off to be reconditioned after the fault disappeared without it fitted.

With all due respect I don’t think you’re on the same page with the symptoms we have all been looking to cure

Thanks but it’s the same symptom set. 1800-2000rpm. Light throttle. Worsens with speed. Feels like a misfire / loss of power accompanied by a judder in the car. Doesn’t matter what gear or mode. It has worsened over time. It’s also temperature relevant.

Following this as my 2013 SD4 is doing something similar to above. Got it booked in tomorrow to be plugged in to check as need to tow our van some 200 miles early yrs Saturday and want it checked see if something shows up and if it does an easy fix tomorrow. Fingers crossed as family been looking forward to this break away. Andrew

IanMetro wrote:

I have a minor attack of this 'Fluttering Noise at about 1400 RPM' problem.
Oddly it only happens on one particular (slight but longish) hill in Langport (about 35 miles away from home) and nowhere else ?
I am normally in 'Cruise Control' at a steady 30mph.

After reading these posts I have bought some Redex and am presently running through the tankful, to see if it makes any difference.

As the problem occurred so rarely, I decided it must be a FL2 characteristic, and did not worry.