No logic then. Just following the main dealer money grabbing recommendation.

No, a low mileage car that is used mainly for short journeys, that never warms up the oils sufficiently to evaporate condensates that will form is going to be running degraded fluids that need changing just as much as a high mileage car that has thrashed its oil!
And the oil change recommendation is going to be by the oil manufacturer rather than the dealer, and I don’t use a dealer, rather trusting a mechanic!

I agree with Bossbob, yes to the lack of proper warm up and fuel degradation with certain possibilities of supermarket fuel if used? which when we fill up at the fuel station what are we filling our tanks with? The majority of un burnt fuel passes the piston rings and contamination of engine oil without our knowledge, with the inconvenience of the said oil filter plus the oil change We only advise on our recommendations and it’s up to yourself to decide. 50 quid all in?
I stated the removal of the fans which some members have commented as a negative, Well just try as you may be surprised how easy this can be without difficulty. Our well loved vehicles which are cared for are becoming scarce, Well the good ones are and possibly into the short future good quality parts may also become scarce too then we have to rely on certain motor factors to supply us with reasonable quality parts, I well experienced a certain motor factor supplying me with a well packaged egr valve which didn’t correctly work and had to remove it again to fit another with a new cooler too, not a very nice experience at all.
For my peace of mind I change the engine oil and filter every year plus now the automatic gearbox oil, that’s just me! Forget the miles or age it done!

Modern synthetic oils are far better than the old mineral oils we had fifty years ago. My dad had an aquaintance who had a Studebaker from new, and did the first oil change at 105 thousand miles. The engine never failed or showed signs of stress. The ream problem with degraded oil is the rotor bearing in the turbocharger od madern engines failing due to degraded oil, then carburising and then the oil pours past the spindle. I had a high mileage mini once that used oil at the rate of a pint every fifty miles. No one could see to overtake.

In a way with low mileage and synthetic oils it isn’t the oil itself that is the problem. The problem is the fuel that has bypassed the rings and the moisture that condenses out on warm surfaces then emulsifies in the oil. If the car is used for short journeys the oil doesn’t get hot for long enough to vaporise the contaminants so there is the danger of water that has emulsified in the oil separating out and causing specs of rust on bearing surfaces lubricated by oil that has been diluted by fuel.
By the way, along with short journeys not allowing DPF regeneration to take place, not getting the oil hot enough for long enough to vaporise the excess fuel that bypasses the rings is a possible major cause of the oil dilution problem that some JLR engines suffer from. (Along with the bean counters being allowed to have a final say in an engineering design problem and the commercial image consultants insisting on a two year servicing regime. )

Well I am old and don’t find it a problem to change the filter, no oil down my arm either.

A small block of wood to jam the hose out of the way

10 min job

Take a look at this video

John C. does a good job explaining why you need to change the oil.



Take care

Paul

Jagracer wrote:

Modern synthetic oils are far better than the old mineral oils we had fifty years ago. My dad had an aquaintance who had a Studebaker from new, and did the first oil change at 105 thousand miles. The engine never failed or showed signs of stress. The ream problem with degraded oil is the rotor bearing in the turbocharger od madern engines failing due to degraded oil, then carburising and then the oil pours past the spindle. I had a high mileage mini once that used oil at the rate of a pint every fifty miles. No one could see to overtake.

I remember working at a place where we put in oil on Monday and Wednesday wether it needed it or not, as it would use it to loose it.

davyboy wrote:

I agree with Bossbob, yes to the lack of proper warm up and fuel degradation with certain possibilities of supermarket fuel if used? which when we fill up at the fuel station what are we filling our tanks with? The majority of un burnt fuel passes the piston rings and contamination of engine oil without our knowledge, with the inconvenience of the said oil filter plus the oil change We only advise on our recommendations and it’s up to yourself to decide. 50 quid all in?
I stated the removal of the fans which some members have commented as a negative, Well just try as you may be surprised how easy this can be without difficulty. Our well loved vehicles which are cared for are becoming scarce, Well the good ones are and possibly into the short future good quality parts may also become scarce too then we have to rely on certain motor factors to supply us with reasonable quality parts, I well experienced a certain motor factor supplying me with a well packaged egr valve which didn’t correctly work and had to remove it again to fit another with a new cooler too, not a very nice experience at all.
For my peace of mind I change the engine oil and filter every year plus now the automatic gearbox oil, that’s just me! Forget the miles or age it done!

Hello, sorry for the late reply but the answer is no, the fan assembly is inside of the automatic gearbox oil cooler mounting, the top clips x2 you slightly pull them rearwards and the whole fan assembly can be lifted, although care with the electrical connectors is to be adhered as Gasman explained in a recent post, once your confident with the removal of the plug connector it’s a doddle, I put some wd40 on the plug with a little grease, Vaseline is also okay, I was so careful 1st time as like I say with the plug etc, 7 mins max. Also was overly taking my time,
With the fans removed the oil filter is really accessible and room for a torque wrench 20Nm to re tighten the cap, my next oil change next March will include the automatic gearbox oil too, that’s so easy now I conquered the dread.
Just for your information my freel2 is a 2009 HSE auto too. Just passed it’s 150k and still looks as good as it were new.

I wonder if there were some slight changes on the MY2011 auto facelift that make this more difficult? last time I tried to remove the fan it was just as you say with the clips etc, but there was no way of getting the thing out past the various hoses, cables and bodywork. I gave up, put it back and did the oil change the conventional way.

On my ex 2008 model, removing the fans was not an easy job, & there was no way I’d ever have removed them just to do the filter. The only time I did remove them, was for easier access to remove the inlet manifold for swirl flap removal & glow plug replacement. Total time for an oil & filter change was only a half hour job anyway, once you have the right tool. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Quote:

I've never found the filter to be a problem at all if got from underneath - plenty of access room if you have a flexihead spanner of the right size Thumbs Up

Quote:

Rommel wrote:

Same here if you use the correct flexi head ratchet spanner its easy just gently push the rubber turbo pipe to one side comes out easy and I have big hands ! !

I agree do it from below and use the right tool
1

Oil & filter changed every six months regardless of mileage, due this month ready for winter.

One thing that helps is to renew the filter top, giving better purchase on the spanner.