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![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Oil and filter change. Calendar or Mileage |
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thehelper Member Since: 29 Jul 2018 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 151 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
No logic then. Just following the main dealer money grabbing recommendation. |
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davyboy Member Since: 30 Aug 2020 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 156 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree with Bossbob, yes to the lack of proper warm up and fuel degradation with certain possibilities of supermarket fuel if used? which when we fill up at the fuel station what are we filling our tanks with? The majority of un burnt fuel passes the piston rings and contamination of engine oil without our knowledge, with the inconvenience of the said oil filter plus the oil change We only advise on our recommendations and it’s up to yourself to decide. 50 quid all in?
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Jagracer Member Since: 22 Feb 2019 Location: east anglia Posts: 173 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Modern synthetic oils are far better than the old mineral oils we had fifty years ago. My dad had an aquaintance who had a Studebaker from new, and did the first oil change at 105 thousand miles. The engine never failed or showed signs of stress. The ream problem with degraded oil is the rotor bearing in the turbocharger od madern engines failing due to degraded oil, then carburising and then the oil pours past the spindle. I had a high mileage mini once that used oil at the rate of a pint every fifty miles. No one could see to overtake. |
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BossBob Member Since: 30 Sep 2010 Location: Bristol Posts: 1330 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
In a way with low mileage and synthetic oils it isn’t the oil itself that is the problem. The problem is the fuel that has bypassed the rings and the moisture that condenses out on warm surfaces then emulsifies in the oil. If the car is used for short journeys the oil doesn’t get hot for long enough to vaporise the contaminants so there is the danger of water that has emulsified in the oil separating out and causing specs of rust on bearing surfaces lubricated by oil that has been diluted by fuel.
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Mowog Member Since: 11 Apr 2018 Location: Cheshire Posts: 503 ![]() |
Well I am old and don’t find it a problem to change the filter, no oil down my arm either.
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p_gill Member Since: 06 Dec 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1224 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Take a look at this video
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merlinj79 Member Since: 14 Aug 2019 Location: San Diego Posts: 315 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
An old engine which burns a lot of oil may never need an oil change, since you're probably adding enough to keep it fresh. Filter would need a change eventually of course. I'm sure you could drive any modern car on the highway for 100K miles and the oil would hold up just fine... assuming you did all 100K in one go (and it didn't leak or burn any oil). It's short drives, stop n' go, and cooling down overnight which really takes toll on the oil. |
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Just a driver Member Since: 29 Nov 2021 Location: Norfolk Posts: 377 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I remember working at a place where we put in oil on Monday and Wednesday wether it needed it or not, as it would use it to loose it. |
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thehelper Member Since: 29 Jul 2018 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 151 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree fan removal look easy on a manual. But, I think it is more difficult on an auto. Am I correct? |
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davyboy Member Since: 30 Aug 2020 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 156 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hello, sorry for the late reply but the answer is no, the fan assembly is inside of the automatic gearbox oil cooler mounting, the top clips x2 you slightly pull them rearwards and the whole fan assembly can be lifted, although care with the electrical connectors is to be adhered as Gasman explained in a recent post, once your confident with the removal of the plug connector it’s a doddle, I put some wd40 on the plug with a little grease, Vaseline is also okay, I was so careful 1st time as like I say with the plug etc, 7 mins max. Also was overly taking my time,
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JonMs Member Since: 25 May 2018 Location: Ilkley Posts: 101 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I wonder if there were some slight changes on the MY2011 auto facelift that make this more difficult? last time I tried to remove the fan it was just as you say with the clips etc, but there was no way of getting the thing out past the various hoses, cables and bodywork. I gave up, put it back and did the oil change the conventional way. |
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Badger51 Member Since: 01 Mar 2014 Location: Coffs Harbour Posts: 946 ![]() ![]() |
On my ex 2008 model, removing the fans was not an easy job, & there was no way I’d ever have removed them just to do the filter. The only time I did remove them, was for easier access to remove the inlet manifold for swirl flap removal & glow plug replacement. Total time for an oil & filter change was only a half hour job anyway, once you have the right tool. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
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Arctic Member Since: 24 Aug 2016 Location: Westmidlands Posts: 501 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree do it from below and use the right tool ![]() Oil & filter changed every six months regardless of mileage, due this month ready for winter. |
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1513 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
One thing that helps is to renew the filter top, giving better purchase on the spanner. |
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