Morning all, I've read about this problem but I'm still confused....I've got a 2011 diesel HSE which I brought a couple of months ago,it has been faultless during that time.....until now. When selecting drive it jolts quite badly, as people say "it's like being hit from behind" when its in drive the box is fine, its also goes into reverse ok. The problem seems worse when its warmed up,I'm changing the ATF today as its probably never been done (107 000 miles) , I'll see if that makes any difference, I've read there is a software update, Is this still available as most of the posts are from years ago....Any help or suggestion's will greatly be appreciated....many thanks mike

Change the fluid first, as it really should have been changed twice at that mileage, except LR don't put it on the service schedule until 150k or 10 years.  Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thanks I'll let you know when I can find a 17mm key

When you say change the fluid is that a complete fluid change or just the 3 to 4 litres in the sump

I think they call it dump and fill where you change the sump oil about 3 times running the engine in between you end up changing about 80% of the oil

3 times

when you drop the oil between 1 and 2 litres comes out - it took 17 litres before mine was running out the same colour as it was going in.

Yes I know a fill is 7 litres, but the new stuff mixes with the old, and you REALLY don't want to leave any of the old burnt stuff in there. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Check out The Gibbons Method on Volvo groups. Same Auto box as ours.

I've read about the Gibbons method , sounds like something out of the goodies...(showing my age)
I think I'll try fill and dump, I've got 20L of fluid, just don fancy messing about with the cooler pipes
I'll be doing it next weekend I'll post about how I got on

HELP I've done the oil, checked the level with the oil hot and engine running, noe a yellow engine warning light has come on..and not running smoothly ....I did run the engine with the air filter disconnected if thats anything to do with it...
oh and it still jolts any advice?

Have you put a code reader on it? If you've started the engine with any sensors disconnected, it will flag a code for the disconnected sensor. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I dont know how but the fault has cleared itself
now back to the problem in hand.....it still jolts fine going into reverse and when in drive its fine...just getting into drive from neutral
any ideas???? mike

If a code is logged for a sensor error, which subsequently clears itself, then I believe the MIL should go out after 2 drive cycles. However the code will remain in memory as a historic error. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

If it still does it after a flush, it needs a software update

I have IIDtool BT can update the transmission software for you if you don't mind the drive to Southampton and the VIN registration fee from Gap. Regards,
Germplus.

2008SE
Memory seats
Webasto Fuel Burning heater with smart phone remote start
Premium Surround Sound
Xtron Unit with wireless CarPlay
Dual Battery System
DAB

Germplus1

How do you access and implement the Trans update on the Gap BT