Noticed I have a bit of an oil leak from the left top of the engine (top right viewing from front of vehicle) it is from the ancillary component (not sure what it is presently) but might be the vacuum pump maybe?

Is this the area? There is oil weeping from a “plug in” pipe connection which could be a vacuum pipe, looks to be roughly 8mm diameter pipe, sorry no pics at the moment as we are mid long trip doing a family visit.

Hoping this might be the “O ring” vacuum leaks alluded to in above posts. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Do a search for "3.2 vacuum pump seal kit 31401556". 2nd page shows how I changed my vacuum pump seals.

Freel2,

I updated the list to include the Radiator, because my friend with a Freel2 had his radiator fail and I broke the Radiator on my S80 while replacing the Prem Air sensor.

Luckily my Freel2 doesn't have a Prem Air sensor.

I am not looking forward to the day when I have to replace the radiator on my Freel2.

The job on my S80 was no fun.

Take care

Paul

Freel2,

A good friend had an idler pulley fail and burst a coolant hose on his LR2.

I am doing my best to provide guidance with the repair.





I wanted to share the picture of the disassembly.


Take care

Paul

i did it , i didnt consider it as being hard but its pretty involved, i gathered parts first, took about a week but i was taking my time rebuild that vaccum pump as well, Is any special tools involved in changing brakes front pads, and rotors ?

My example,

Indiana,

Were you trying to upload a picture for your last post?

If you get a chance post a pic or two of your LR2

Thanks

Paul

sorry about that dont know why it didnt appear,,how ya doing paul?

Indiana,

You are half way there.

Your successfully uploaded to your gallery but you need to add the picture to your post (Click an image to add it to your message.)

I checked your gallery and your LR2 looks really nice

I'll post the picture for you

Click image to enlarge

FREEL2,

The Fuel pressure sending unit on my S80 3.2 set a check engine light.

So I replaced it.













Take care

Paul

PS now I need to buy a new sensor, I was planning to use that sensor for the LR2

FREEL2 Readers,

I've added the BLUETOOTH phone module to the list of common repairs

Note: I just bypassed mine but I will likely replace it or take it apart and rebuild it at some point.

Thanks

Paul

Just gave my 3.2 a real-world coolant system stress test...

150K, was planning to do water pump, hoses, radiator, oil & tranny cooler myself but got busy before a road trip. Towed a trailer in the Sierra Nevadas in 110 *F heat, I did use an OBDII guage to keep coolant temps mostly under 105* C, with a short excursions to 110*C.

Made it to my vacation home (ten hour drive), but the PCV hose sprung a leak the next morning after cooling down over night. Got that and some hoses replaced at a good but expensive local shop (mountain town, few options). A couple days after that I had to go get another trailer and pull it up a mountain pass... then the radiator sprung a leak.

Ended up getting hoses, water pump, drive belt, idler/tensioner, radiator, oil & tranny coolers done since it seemed that the cooling system was at the end of it's line.

So 150K looks like the limit, probably should replace all that stuff at 120K if you're doing severe duty. I was using dexcool, will now switch to a G13 spec.

At least it didn't strand me anywhere.

Merlin,

G13 is the way to go.

I like the way you are thinking about this.

If I am understanding you correctly you are recommending that the Radiator be changed preemptively at about 13 years along with the other coolant hoses.

Essentially move it from a repair item to a maintenance item.


This an interesting suggestion and worth considering.


I was thinking that the list should be expanded for the 20 year mark and I was planning to include all coolant hoses. Because the S80 and LR2 use the same coolant hoses I am buying them one at a time when I place an order for some other reason. This way I will have all of the hoses on the shelf just in case something happens. I did the same for the Ignition coils and Volvo Spark Plugs. This way I can fix any problem the same day. Note: the radiator for the Volvo has a special (expensive) Ozone elimination coating and I had to replace it because the sensor attached to it failed and I broke the Radiator trying to replace the sensor.

One piece of supporting information the Plastic Thermostat housing that I removed from my LR2 is showing signs of degradation, I think it looks like crazing if you know what this is. I suspect that this is the same plastic used for the radiator and coolant hose connections.

Do you have any picture of what part actually failed or do you know the part number?

I am glad to hear that you got it sorted.

Take care

Paul

Not sure if the "wear" is more related to age or mileage, probably some of both but the failures did not appear to be corrosion induced, probably seals given the locations. The radiator leak was in a bottom corner, where the tubes meet the manifold. I ran the dexcool spec orange coolant up until now.

Miles would mean hot & cold cycles and vibration. Age would tend to cause seals and even plastic to harden/crack + metal corrosion. Normal operating temp would increase the rate of corrosion, so that's a mileage thing too.

I guess to be safe I'd say 12 years/150K for normal driving, 10 years/120K for severe duty. If you only drive local you could wait for something to leak and then get it all done together. If you travel, I'd suggest pre-emptive... that's what I *intended* to do.

I'll post part numbers when my wife gets home with the car.

_________________________________________________________________
Serpentine Belt Replacement Volvo S80 V70 XC70 XC60 3.2 and Land Rover LR2
_________________________________________________________________
OE PARTS LIST-----------------------Land Rover Part #---Volvo Part #
Serpentine Belt-----------------------LR003570-----------31251046
Tensioner-----------------------------LR004667------------31401286
Idler Pulley---------------------------LR006076------------31401193
O-ring for Power steering pump-----LR009387-----------
Overdrive pulley----------------------LR005993-----------31316803
__________________________________________________________________
OEM Substitute Parts
Continental Belt-------------CON-6K1200
INA Tensioner--------------INA-5340324100
FEBI Idler Pulley-----------FEB-37515
INA Overdrive pulley---------INA-5350195100
Note: I used a simpler overdrive pulley from :Pro-Parts Sweden 28436803



Procedure

- Disconnect the battery electrical connections (B- then B+)

- Also disconnect the hold down clamp



- Remove the battery




- Remove the battery tray

- On the S80 the Hood (Bonnet) release cable will be in the way




- Remove the bolts shown and brackets (I rotated the upper bracket upside-down and it slipped out)



- Compress the tensioner

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