Hi I have a 2008 LANDROVER FREELANDER2, 3.2P HSE-2 S/W AUTO.

It has pretty much ran without issue for since its birth living its early years in Japan then making its way to New Zealand. Where it has been lovingly cared for and regularly serviced.

So in short it’s about time something went wrong! Right?

I woke up and went to start the engine, just to receive the whirring of what I believe to be the starter motor. Unusual! As she normally starts first time! I gave her another few tries and wayyy off she went I drove 250kms parked up spent an hour faffing around, drove another 100kms parked up for another 2 hours, drove another 100kms and parked up for the night. About 15 hours later when setting off same issue happens but doesn’t start!

A passer by gives me a jump start and after about 2 minutes it started and off I went on another 250km drive. Parked up to buy some beers, and same issue! I was by a garage so bought a new battery and it started straight away.

Next morning same issue, I tried to jump the battery and still nothing.

Called the AA and they insist the battery is fine, the alternator is working and essentially had no idea.

I checked earth strap and negative connection mount all good.
I tried starting with a boost pack still nothing.
Tried to bypass the solenoid on the starter with a screwdriver but the starter seems to be working, and to no start.
Checked fuses in engine bay and under passenger dash.
No codes on the OBD2
Topped fuel up to half tank.

Still no start.

Anyone got any ideas?

Videos of sounds..
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Vu1bJ3OWK...p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lvKn2keZp...p=drivesdk

If the starter is spinning but the engine isn’t turning over has the mechanism that send the starter pawl to the flywheel started to jam intermittently?

Bossbob….

Seems like StevieT may have shorted solénoïd connection without also shorting thé solenoid feed to activate the solenoid….so the motor turns without engaging thé flywheel….

Does sound like starter fault…..p_Gill has done a lot of posts on the same subject….I think he knows a lot about the 3.2 FL2s……best have a look at his posts StevieT. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Thanks for your help! Will check out p_Gill, and continue to mutter every time I look out of the window and see it on the drive way.

@StevieT………Relax…even the best of motors eventually give trouble….sounds like you have done very well with your FL2……..as I have…
I did have similar trouble starting about a year ago……..very strange….only a problem after damp weather for a few days…..was the Denso starter……headache at thé time but ok now……
Check out p-gill posts about FL2 3.2……he has the knowledge……
Good luck. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Although I have no experience of the I6, it does sound like the starter motor solenoid is not engaging the gear onto the flywheel but still activating the starter motor.

I would remove the starter motor and bench test it and then repair it myself or send it to an auto electrician for testing and refurbing.
I assume you can obtain solenoid repair kits, like you can in the UK. Jules

I’ve been hitting it with a torque wrench which has been releasing the mech forward and engaging the flywheel, it’s very much a hit or miss/works 75% of the time solution. I have a new Bosch starter motor arriving on Monday so hopefully that will be problem solved. I figured best to just replace the whole starter rather than just the solenoid.

Thanks for your help & wisdom!

Bought a new starter, fitted said starter, worked for a day. Now I’ve got a long walk home.

Was it made in China?

Could be that the old starter may? have damaged the flywheel ring gear if the same symptom persists,
I would send the stater back you just might have a duff one?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

Mahatma Gandhi said if there is an Idiot in power those who elected him are well represented. The Enemy is our own corrupt Government.

A new Bosch (Freelander 2 3.2L) Dohc Starter unfortunately.

Certainly points to faulty new unit……since it was ok for a day….
Most unusual to have a faulty Bosch new unit in my experience…….assuming as you say Rommel that it isn’t à cheap imitation………
I would have expected a lot of grating noise from the starter if the ring-gear is damaged
StevieT, does the starter make any noise when trying to start…….? If no, then faulty starter seems possible……………..assuming all connections are ok……& thé inhibiter switches are functioning correctly.
So many posts on here about 3.2 starting problems……. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

StevieT wrote:

A new Bosch (Freelander 2 3.2L) Dohc Starter unfortunately.

I agree with above.

Solenoid not being called, although power is at starter motor.




 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Looking at Ian’s picture of starter location ( I have never seen a 3.2FL2)…….access to wiring looks quite good……….
To test things in-situ you could remove to solenoid activating wire & check for 12v between wire & earth whilst someone presses thé start button (+f/brake)……..if you have current that suggests s/motor prob.
If no current electrical problem indicated…………
I would then secure a ring terminal wire on connection & arc thé wire to positive feed on s/mtr…..starter should work………….if battery & connections ok…..
I say fix à wire because if you arc it with a screwdriver you could burn the contact post since it’s normally only 5 or 6mm………….if it’s the usual Bosch connector…….that I remember……. FL2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto MY 2012— current
D2 TD5 HSE Man MY 1999 470kmls….gone 2014 ….lovely engine..chassis rotten
D1 300TDI Man MY 1996 56kmls….gone 1999…D2 much better
Wife’s FL1 1.8P MY 2001 32kmls …gone 2007…has Mini since.

Post just above you gives you location.

Just remove the engine "skid" plate and you see it.

That pic is for the i6 engine location.