Quote:

For my LR2 I can jump in
- press the brake with my foot
- the key fob with my thumb
- the START/STOP with my index finger
all in less than 1 second and my LR2 will not start.

I suspect that you may be doing something like that.

Try walking thru the power modes and let us know if you still have the problem



MODE 0 --> insert the FOB but don't touch the brake

MODE I --> press the START/STOP briefly but don't touch the brake

MODE II --> press the START/STOP for 2 seconds but don't touch the brake

MODE III --> press and hold the brake and then the START/STOP (engine should start)


By Mode II the steering column should be unlocked, if not then the engine won't start and in MODE II you can switch into Neutral and start with the transmission in neutral instead of park (if the Park signal isn't working the engine won't start and if the signal from the brake switch is faulty then the transmission won't switch to neutral)

Swapped the two 40 fuses with each other to reset the ECU started first time.

Dropped it at the local 4x4 Land Rover garage the next day, nothing on their diagnostic tool, got a full service, started every time, this morning it started on the second attempt.

The garage told me unfortunately they can’t really do much if it is working, so to wait until it stops as it’s not throwing any codes and they can’t trace a problem if it’s not there.

Park gear sensor is all good wouldn’t start in neutral.

I noticed when it wasn’t starting the fuel gauge wouldn’t move as if it was empty.

Land Rovers eh!?

It’s got a new battery, new starter (starter has been bench tested) and a full service and been hooked up to a diagnostic computer with no faults.

Steve,

I explained it incorrectly……my bad

The 3.2 like all automatic transmissions will start in PARK and it will also start in NEUTRAL

Quote:

Park gear sensor is all good wouldn’t start in neutral.

It’s starting relatively normal now, doesn’t sound as healthy as it did previously.

The start process you describe is how I normally start it, unfortunately the video of me starting the car I was frustrated so rushing.

The garage, replaced the battery connection terminals, then gave it a good service as it was due this month as it had been a year.

Although the A/C Heater has decided to not work now.

Assuming I have a wee electrical gremlin lurking!

Thanks for the help!

Steve

You should get a tool that can measure the amount of time needed to start the engine

Here is a picture of mine




I recommend that you get something that can make a repeatable measurement

Having said that here is how I think about the starting process

1) starter motor engages

2) ECU checks the signal from the crankshaft sensor to verify that the air fuel mixture is being ignited and accelerating the crankshaft

3) when step 2 is met the fuel pump is turned on and the starter motor is turned off (the fuel pump only runs as much as required to pressurize the rail)

If the Fuel pressure sending unit fails then the pump may not run when it should and this would cause a delay in starting.

If the crankshaft signal is not “clean” then the ECU will not run the fuel pump and the engine will be delayed in starting.

Also the Sparkplugs need to be working optimally to get the correct acceleration of the crankshaft


With all that in mind what can you do
- replace the fuel pressure sensor
- check if oil is leaking on the crankshaft sensor and clean it and fix the oil leak at the vacuum pump
- replace the spark plugs with the latest Denso Iridium Twin Tip

Good luck

Paul

PS my meter for checking the starting time is an Autel AL539B and it is very capable but not very expensive