Our 2013 SD4 auto is now on 315kkm, around 196kmiles.
Runs great, very few issues and feels solid to drive.

Click image to enlarge

270,000 miles and just dumped the clutch

must have had one in the past I suppose

So I have around £3000 to spend should I buy a high mileage (140,000+) freelander 2 Automatic. Browsing through these last 8 pages I am thinking yes as long as it has been serviced and with a new cam belt. I mean why fit a new cam belt if it's on its last legs.

Just be sure to have as much again in your back pocket to fund any problems that arise over the next say two years. or are you feeling lucky

The wife "Must have" an automatic. (Even though she passed with a manual. ) Which makes it hard to find a vehicle at the price and running costs that I can afford. And the Freelander 2 suits the bill. But just not sure about the high mileage ones.

Imo mileage is immaterial at that sort of price , it requires a good service history , my wife's Fl2 has done 154k and still drives faultless but it is pampered when it comes to maintenance etc.

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Well it’s not the highest mileage but it is the highest my FL2 has got to.

I have been watching the dash for days and nearly missed it.

I watched mine go onto 48000 yesterday

Mine is just about run in now at 126,000 miles.

mine still amazes me with its power at 167,000 . . . .  2017 SEAT Ateca 4drive 2.0 xcellence (May 2022 -
2007 HSE with HST bodykit in Zermatt Silver 169,700 miles (dec 2016 - May 2022 )
2007 Honda Civic Type S GT (2012-2017)
2002 Mini Cooper S (2008-2012)
1992 Honda Legend 3.2i (2003-2008)
1990 Honda Concerto (1999-2003)
1985 Honda Accord (1997-1999)
1983 Honda Accord (1993-1997)
1983 Mini Mayfair (1988-1993)
1974 Mini 1000 (1979-1986)

I would worry as much about rust as high mileage. Don't buy one that has lived in central scotland upwards or near the sea. Rotten rusty underneath with all the salt that is spread. Go for one down middle england or somewhere where salt isn't thrown about with such liberal abandon. I had a Disco 3 that was like near new underneath and in 3 years in South Lanarkshire it was serious job getting nuts and bolts and bushes off. Same with a New Ranger Wildtrack that when it got to 7yrs old every thing underneath was rust up. Meanwhile Rover 416 94 L reg when 16yrs old and living down south was lots better. I have turned good cars to rusty bottomed cars so many times living here.

Living in Aberdeen The nearest automatic I was interested in was over 100 miles away at my price range. But I have taken the train down as far as Birmingham to buy a car so am not that concerned with distance. I would even go as far as London if it is the right deal. The only problem with this is. You feel more committed into buying the further you travel. Looks like I will have to keep my slippery rear wheel drive till this Covid is under control.

superspeed3065 wrote:

I would worry as much about rust as high mileage. Don't buy one that has lived in central scotland upwards or near the sea. Rotten rusty underneath with all the salt that is spread. Go for one down middle england or somewhere where salt isn't thrown about with such liberal abandon. I had a Disco 3 that was like near new underneath and in 3 years in South Lanarkshire it was serious job getting nuts and bolts and bushes off. Same with a New Ranger Wildtrack that when it got to 7yrs old every thing underneath was rust up. Meanwhile Rover 416 94 L reg when 16yrs old and living down south was lots better. I have turned good cars to rusty bottomed cars so many times living here.

See bold. Oops. Kev checks his own profile pic... checks back garden where the boat is moored in 8 feet of salt water... checks front garden where the bay is... check for pile of rust on the drive where the car used to be... whew, not yet

I have to agree, salt air is a . I see rust on our bikes unpainted areas but for the last 7 years we have been here, we have not had a problem on the cars as yet. To the contrary, living in north Hampshire and Surrey previously was where I had all the rust issues, but of course the cars were not so well protected from the factory in those days.

Personally, I reckon that the road salt is the bigger culprit, and with the warmer maritime climate here on the south coast we don’t see too much of that thankfully.

I've got a 2007 that has now done 203000km, quite a lot of it towing a caravan.
Here is the list of things I have done since buying her in 2015 in order:
1. front struts
2. new tires
3. split turbo hose
4. battery
5. headliner
6. flush of automattic transmission.
7. tires
8. turbo fan motor
9. battery
10. starter motor
11 alternator lead
12. a/c compressor bearing
13. auxiliary belt and tensioner
14. throttle body
15. timing belt tensioner pulley and waterpump

And I am about to replace the o-rings on the leak-off pipe connectors.

The haldex has never been serviced and the rear and front diff oil has never been changed. Both of which I will shortly remedy.

None of these items were a surprise mainly thanks to this forum.

Oh and it has never seen the inside of a garage. The paintwork is pretty faded and the dash is all cracked up but we love her.

150K now. Daily driver with some road trips and trailer towing in mountains (i6 petrol).

Engine and tranny doing great. So far have done this work...

Rear Diff (90K, now using synth oil and aggressive change interval of 40K)
**Vacuum pump oil leak (90k)
**Starter (90K)
**PS Pump (100K, now changing fluid and res/filter every 40k)
Terrain Control Switch (100k)
**Fuel Pressure Sender (110K)
Front Control Arms (115K)
Motor Mounts + *Torque Mount (115K, but we have *really* bad local roads)
**Shifter Lock (115K)
*Hood Position Switch (120K)
**Radiator Fan, Control Module, and Thermostat (125K)
*Coolant Reservoir (135K)
*Front Drive Shaft (145K, used part)
New Shocks (145K, Bilstein B4)

Also various minor emissions control issues along the way.

Dealing with a minor coolant leak at 150K after towing up mountains in 100F+ temps, despite being careful and monitoring coolant temps with a scanner. Also plan to replace radiator, water pump, the big coolant hoses, and anything else that looks sketchy. Eventually will replace oil and ATF coolers too. DIY time permitting.

I'm using aggressive fluid change intervals on all of the "sealed for life" components... they've been trouble free since then.

* These I did myself
** These I could do, and will try to in the future time permitting.