Alex,

No worries.

I am not certain of what I wrote......... it's just my best guess.


I do really like the picture though it really shows how much surface area needs to cleaned of the steel shavings from the bearing.

The magnet on the fill plug is tiny by comparison.

No wonder I had to keep cleaning it off for weeks.


Take care

Paul

I've studied a little more the issue.
It seems that the bracket in the upper part is protecting the differential breather airway.
Also, taking into consideration the rotation of the main gear/oil flow inside, it seems that the bracket is oriented in the wrong direction in order to properly act as an oil funnel for the bearing lubrication.
What do you think?

Alex,

That makes sense.

I tried unsuccessfully to find the purpose of that bracket.

I did read somewhere that the pinion bearing was lubricated by splash lubrication (I think was reading about the differential in our vehicle)


Your explanation as a protector for the breather makes more sense.

I do wonder what the inside of the differential looks like at high way speed.

Take a look at this video

It shows the channels for lubricating the Pinion bearing as well as the side bearings



Thanks

Paul

I don't believe they are lubricated in that way...
As the bearings are not sealed ones, the back of the lateral bearings are permanently in the oil and in their front are the side driveshafts seals. So the driveshafts bearings are getting enough lubrication, from splash, just like in your youtube movie.
The same, the oil passes through the back pinion bearing, past its rollers, reaches the collapser and then the nose bearing, its rollers and between them up to the seal with the haldex chamber.




Last edited by alex_pescaru on 26th Aug 2018 8:48 am. Edited 2 times in total

Alex

I agree with your assessment

The lateral bearing seem to be happy partially submerged in gear oil.

I haven’t taken my differential apart yet, so I don’t know, but I would be shocked if the front pinion bearing doesn’t have a port so that the gear oil flows to it as shown in the video.

If it doesn’t that may be another factor in its short expected life.


Did you replace your pinion bearing?

If yes how many miles on the replacement?

Is it still happy?

Thanks

Paul

Neither did I and I hope to stay this way...
I've just assisted to a repair once and seen a lot of stories and pictures here and on the Russian forum.
But, from the pictures, there are some channels and I believe that at least one of them is for lubrication.
But you are right about the life expectancy of the nose bearing.
And I believe that the recommended by others extreme pressure 75W90 oil, which is more thinner than 80W90 is helping lubrication much better, especially when cold, as it travels much quickly.

Comparison between 75W90 vs. 80W90.


Comparison between various gear oils (from 1:20). See how the 80W90 fails miserably below -30C.

Alex,

Those are great video's

It really shows the gear oil getting thrown around.

Also it shows clearly that the Synthetic is needed for lower temperature.

I am glad to hear that your differential didn't fail. (I know that we talked about this >5 years ago, and I greatly appreciate your input)

What gear oil did you use? Mobilube SHC as shown in the video?

Did you also use a magnet?

How many miles or kilometers have you gone?

Did you ever hear the pinion bearing noise?



Now back to the splash lubrication for the differential

From MrRover75's Gallery

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...33_Pro.jpg

Is this the port for lubricating the pinion bearing?



Take care

Paul

Up until now it was the original oil. And I've change it with Castrol 75W90. The old oil looked black like engine oil.
I don't use a magnet.
The car has done 122000 km. Aprox. 76000 miles.
Nope. I thought, at some point, that I the bearing is on its way out, but turned out to be a rear right wheel bearing.

My LR2 (gasoline) just turned over 217,000 miles, and it's running well but the CE light is on and it needs the passenger side front catalytic converter due to damage from a failed ignition coil last year. I have the part and am planning to do the job in a couple of weeks. Overall, it's been a wonderfully reliable car, and I would drive it anywhere. It's never left me stranded, thankfully!

Unscheduled maintenance since new:

Alternator at 170K
Starter at 180K
Rear diff rebuild at 190K
Fuel pump at 215K
Both rear cats at 170K
2 ignition coils - 1 at 170K and another at 215K
Fuel rail pressure sensor at 216K
Spark plugs at 215K
Key fob battery at 215K

Dave,

There is some evidence from the Volvo boards (the 3.2 is a Volvo design but built in the UK) that the ignition coil failure may be related to engine overheating due to a failed thermostat.

If I were you I would think about changing the Thermostat and the small hose for the oil cooler.

Note: its a little too late for you but the time to change the thermostat is when you remove the intake manifold which needed to be done to replace the alternator.



Link that shows the parts needed and what needs to be done

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html



Link that discusses how the Thermostat fails

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/v...mp;t=86205



Link that indicates a failed Thermostat may lead to coil failure

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.p...-2009-XC70




Good Luck

Paul

Paul,

Thank you! That's extremely helpful info and I'm grateful that you took the time to provide it. As luck would have it, I have a new water pump, thermostat, and a full set of coolant hoses to redo the cooling system later this fall. I'll add the oil cooler line to my list as well, so thank you.

By way of background, I received this truck a few thousand miles ago from a friend of mine in California who bought it new. He knew I would take good care of it and he wanted to be able to drive it when he comes to Colorado, so he literally gave it to me for the cost of shipping it to CO. He did all of the work on it himself after it was out of warranty, including the differential rebuild, but I know he hasn't touched the cooling system, so I wanted to renew that to keep it reliable. I also do all of my own work on my cars, including transmission rebuilds and such. I did the fuel pump, coil, plugs and fuel rail sensor a few weeks ago, so this will be a fun weekend project for me.

Thank you so much for the tip! You probably saved me a breakdown at some point.

Cheers,
Dave

I bought mine with 115000 km on the clock and since it was allready 8 years old and having 2 previous owners decided to change the timing belt and water pump straight away, also all the fluids and some small knick knacks along with it (wiper blades, 2 wiper jets...). Had the garage (formerly J-LR-F, now just F) do a complete check up and was told its in good condition, haven't had any problems apart a slight pull to the left which i'll deal with after i learn enough from the forum to be able to suggest some things to check to the garage (1indie and the garage both told me wheel alingment is fine but still pulls, have noticed slightly more camber on one of the back wheels so i'll point that out next time i'm im). Also wanted them to change the diff and haldex oils and the haldex filter but was told there was no need, decided to leave it for the next service as the bill was already getting big. Might ask a friend who is mechanicaly literate (unlike me) to help me and try to do it myself. Basicaly would like to see the condition of the diff oil and whether there are metal shavings inside suggesting some more bills down the road and since i do take it off road the haldex just seems to be a logical ting to service (does'nt seem to have been driven much off road but still, how can one be sure...)

Am now on 123000 km and extremly happy with it, hopefuly will stay that way for a long time still

Any suggestions on what else could be wise to check on would be most welcome

Roundman,

I put together a list of common problems for the 3.2 (the list should be similar for the Diesel)

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html


I see that you are already thinking about item #5


5. Rear Pinion Bearing on Differential - replaced the gear oil and added a magnetic drain plug


And Item #20


20. BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)


These links have more information about the Power Transfer Unit and Rear Differential

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14659-15.html

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29861-15.html


Good Luck

Paul

Thank you for the links, i do use search quite a bit but the forum is so big one is bound to miss some...

Back in the 80's we used to add Molyslip (molybdenum disuphide) to gear oils. You never hear of that now. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE