The answer to your question is that no one seems to have found a permanent cure for the hesitation problem despite changing all sorts of components. Most of the history of the problem is in the thread below

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20555.html 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Hi, I experienced these problems back on 2018 with my 2011 Freelander, changed my throttle sensor and have not had any problems since then, so I consider that to be as permanent as it can be.

Thanks. I’ve ordered a pedal and will report back the outcome. It’s got to be worth a go.

Ok, so update.

Ordered a new pedal from LR. They had in stock an LR07640 Apparently now superseded, but they didn’t have any of those in carrying the new part number. Part arrived and it’s obviously new “old stock” as the date is 2007. My car is a 2013 ! A bit worried, I went ahead and replaced the pedal anyway (looks exactly the same as the 2013 coming off). 3 x 10mm nuts, top one a bit of a fiddle, but 10 minutes tops to change.

First drive - first touch on accelerator and a slight miss\hesitancy (I’m guessing this may be the ECU accepting the new part). There after didn’t miss a beat.

Throttle feels different under foot, no travel before accepting the input and feels like it requires a more positive input from the foot. Went up and down gears nicely and instant MPG readings show an improvement circa 5mpg compared to previous at same rev range and speed.

It’s very early days, but I tried to replicate at the problem at speeds and revs which would normally be a problem - nothing ! Fingers crossed, will update if any change. “If you don’t know where you’re going, any road’ll take you there”

I've got a Foxwell OBD reader and in the 'OBDII' menu, I looked at the live data for 'Commanded EGR' and MAP value.

The MAP at idle is about 15.1psi and at 1800-2000rpm it is about 17%-20%. These values don't seem to fluctuate, so maybe my MAP sensor is working ok, so I won't fit a new one yet.

However, while driving through the gears, the 'Commanded EGR' is reading between 0% and 20%, but when the hesitation occurs, the percentage shoots up to 60% then back down to 10-20%! Interesting.

Even more interesting is that when I pulled over, (so when in not in gear) and press the accelerator to about 1800rpm, the EGR% shoots up to 60% again.

Does this help anyone who might know how the EGR is triggered/activated?

Does anyone else on this thread have access to OBD reader and can generate the same values as this?

Baby Prince wrote:

Throttle feels different under foot, no travel before accepting the input and feels like it requires a more positive input from the foot. Went up and down gears nicely and instant MPG readings show an improvement circa 5mpg compared to previous at same rev range and speed.

Not wishing to cast doubt on your findings but this reminds me. I remember back in the 70's a company was advertising a modification which was guaranteed to reduce your fuel consumption - just tell us you make and model of car etc. It turned out to be a stronger pedal spring  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

All I can tell you is - it works ! That’s all I care about really. “If you don’t know where you’re going, any road’ll take you there”

Been down on the south coast last couple of weeks with the van, on the trip down towing 1700kg no problems for 100 miles until hit crawling traffic jam in 32 degrees of heat, after about 3 mins the restricted performance came on pulled off at the first layby and waited about 10 mins guess what back to normal.

Drove round for 2 weeks no warnings just hesitation at low revs,but if only revved up slowly in low gears about 12-13rpm no hesitation.

On way back no problems until in slow traffic again restricted performance but once got going cleared itself.

Today been on 200 mile round trip towing small trailer at 60mph returned 46 mpg no problems.

I don't know what to try next MAF or new pedal sensor a few people are telling me its the EGR valve so why dose a fault code not come up or the orange engine light and no stored faults codes OB reader is connected.

I have disconnected the MAF sensor and fitted a blanking plate on different occasions both times no hesitations.

Hi Richard, when my car had this fault it never went into limp home mode ... however you may wish to have a look at this ... if it has gone into limp home mode look to see if it has a pending code rather than stored code ... it can go into limp home mode with a pending code of P006a. This relates to the MAP sensor and MAF sensor and is detecting a loss in pressure between the two. It is easy to assume that the sensors are going wrong but when mine did this it indicated a split in one of the turbo hoses (hence the difference in pressure between the two sensors). Apparently it is quite a common fault in the FL2 .. put your hand down between the radiator and the front of the engine and check the wide bore rubber hose, they can split ... if your hand comes out covered in oil it has split other wise you can feel the split by squeezing the hose. They are available on ebay but the first one i bought didn't fit, this one did https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254240721766 quite easy to replace.

Hi PV3001
I have had that pipe off and checked it no splits and put pressure through it so confident it not that also checked all other hoses from turbo to intercooler.
Its low speed when not calling for much fuel,ie granny starts for example when entering a roundabout with several sets of traffic lights controlling traffic on the roundabout so you cant do boy racer starts.

Low gear and low revs related or when driving with very low revs normally 1st gear

With respect to codes there are no codes any where stored pending or other, anywhere.

The car is low miles 52k always had genuine LR parts Millers C1 oil serviced every year new genuine, LR Fuel Filter at 43k went to Spain with caravan after filter fitted no problems, Haldex serviced by Austen at Belle at 42k

It always starts first time ticks over normally pulls well once moving, no smoke, caravan at 60mph no probs has been on motorways a lot since June so DPF is clear.

The restricted performance came on when in 1st gear with a lot of stopping and starting on hills with caravan (30 mins delay) on the back so I am thinking Throttle Pedal sensor or maf.
I might buy some maf cleaner and clean the maf and see if its any better then buy a throttle pedal and try that.

Well, after my 'Mircale Cure' following the last service I had occasion to go back to the garage - battery had been going bad for weeks and would not hold a charge (apparently the auto FL2 requires a heavy duty battery and boy did that hurt!!!!)

Anyhoo I had a chat with the guys who did the service just to see if the problem itself sounded familiar. Nope - and they don't use any particular make of filter in preference to others so that sort of ruled out that unless it was just sheer luck.

However, they do not have access to a super dooper computer but they do use an OBD device to reset the service warning - and everything else as well. So the possibility does exist of something stored in the brain that was/is behind this. OR of course there are multiple routes to the same problem......

In the end I hope they do the same next year

Just a comment really but as someone who has been on this forum for a few years and in the past had a 2011 FL2 with the problem it's interesting to see how the discussion has moved on. Go back a few years and these cars were still under warranty or extended warranty and going back to the dealers and even getting JLR involved and they never fixed the problem. Now a new cohort of owners have appeared who are prepared to get stuck in and try to resolve the hesitation problem themselves and good luck to them. From what I can tell it only appears on hot days on the first cars with a DPF fitted and a new ECU and control program and my money would be on the ECU and some code issue when a certain set of circumstances from the various sensors on the engine and DPF prevails.
There is another issue with the 2011 model which happened to me about twice a year, you start the engine and the whole car shakes violently as the engine misfires. You stop the engine and start again and all OK for a few months. Apparently that is an ECU issue too. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

The first Land Rover I drove was my dads SWB diesel on the farm, it did exactly what it was made for on a farm,it would go anywhere and tow anything.

As a farmers son I was taught at a very early age to look afters your filters and oil and never let your coolant level drop and you will have no problems with a diesel engine

I have been on diesel cars since 1985 and over the years never had any problems ever. Prior to the Freelander I had 2 D5 Volvo`s and never worried about reliability, took one to Spain towing a caravan with 170k on the clock still on the original clutch
.
My 20 year old son had it for 20 k miles and he could not break it

I have since sold it to my friend who took it to just under 300k.

I bought the freelander because of the driving position and the nose weight, I thought the 2.2 Ford/PSA engine would be fine.

We live in a small village that gets cut off with heavy rain and snow so I thought the Landy was a perfect car

Its just the electrics which started lighting up the dash since 19000 miles this makes me nervous.

The Disco Sport is even worse having now personally witnessed 3 taken away on breakdown trucks all with warning light issues and not being able to make the journey home

Pleased to see all the chat about hesitating at lights/roundabouts. I assumed ours was a safety issue because when at kamikaze roundabouts and you set off giving it Nancy's knickers to safely get to the inside lane, and then,.... it goes to sleep momentarily just as speedy gonzales has come zooming around the bend threatening to broadside our pride and joy just as it springs to life and accelerates to safety. Phew!! Well, I thought, probably wrongly , that it was the gearbox's brain not knowing which gear it was in and which gear it wanted to be in so I read somewhere in this freel2 forum that you could reset the gearbox by doing the ignition 30seconds, accelerator 30seconds while ignition was on. Whatever that did has made it alot better but also with me when at the momentary stops NOT taking my foot totally off the accelerator and then trying to floor it BUT just giving it a decent part rev from a not quite tickover and this driving method has maybe sorted it for me.
We have had our SD4 XS 13reg for about 5 weeks now and being new to us we are still hunting for excuses to go somewhere and drive. Funny enough it has never attempted roundabout suicide even once when her that I have to obey is driving! The other maybe annoying thing is that after closing the bonnet the car will not lock until I have opened and closed it up to about a dozen times. Other than that it is a brilliant car. Very pleased with it.

So Guys how does this work its between 12 and 14 degrees today and been out on a long run guess what no faults, hesitation or anything drove like a dream 45mpg, It was a really nice car to drive

So why when its warm does it miss on low revs?