Thank you TigerTim for your reply.
I will check this. Your passenger side might be the driver side on my car (left side in driving direction)
For me that meets absolute my feeling, but I read a lot about a whining noise if the bearings in a diff are bad.
And the frequence of dif has only a correlation to the speed not the rpm of the engine.
So - really a wired problem.

My Best

Yes it is really weird as engine resonance transmits through many components it is very hard to pinpoint I became obsessed with finding the culprit and changed so many things mostly not too expensive and very nearly bought a second hand gearbox to try but decided to just live with it in the hope one day it will become so bad it will break something and we have the answer... keep us updated on your findings Tim

hey tim
> live with it in the hope one day it will become so bad it will break something and we have the answer..
>
hahaha - you could say it is the luxury massage feature of the car.....

I'm driving with it nearly for 20 TKM now. I always try to drive around it....but it don't like that.
Next thing I will try is the power transfer box - I'm nearly sure it is not coming from the gearbox,
because as you can read here, cars with manual gearbox can show the same problem. So it has to be something that is same on both car variants.
Second, car is known for the diff problems, LR is known for diff problems.

Yes I too have wondered about transfer box but apparently when they are on the way out you can feel a lot of axial play in the output shaft and mine feels solid . My mrs drives ours mostly now and that’s only local so doesn’t notice it but when we go on a longer trip I drive it and drives me mad and really spoils an otherwise great car . Keep on searching ...

Hey Tim.

I don’t expect so much play. If the bearings were the (only) problem, I would expect to hear it.
A worn bearing would not vibrate. In my imagination the vibrations are coming for the worn dents inside the box.
That leads me to the next question. What is done in a reconditioning service? If I decide to give the box to
a reconditioning service, will it be sure that I will get back an non vibrating one?
I will ask “we are diff” today about that.

Greetings from Berlin re-book

Keep us updated cheers Tim

Hey Tim
Here is the answer:
We reset the gearbox control module (just a re calibration program in software) and it seemed to help.

Did you test that? How is that done?

My Best re-book.

Hi yes I’ve had mine reset and also did feel better for a while . Reset alters the rpm at which gear changes happen until the gearbox relearns your driving style so you tend to drive through the 1650/1850 rpm zone and so don’t get the vibration. Drive in sport mode for a while and you prob notice it’s not as bad as the gear changes are later Tim

Yes, it became a little bit smoother.
I fear everything helped a bit, even the change of the engine Oil.....
For me the thing came back to state, where I think I share your opinion and leave it as it is.

Is there a way to change oil in the front diff? I did change rear but not in the front diff.

Thanks - re-book.

Hey
Nope - Today the vibes are the same again.
Tim did you try to drive only front driven without the prop shaft?

My Best re-book

Hi Re-book, if you search Tim's original post you'll see that I too suffer from the dreaded vibration. Mine, however, shows itself in lower gears both Tim and myself have changed many parts but have still not got to the bottom of it! I had also given up worrying about it BUT having changed the front brake discs and pads earlier this year I have noticed the LH brake disc has some uneven wear? I'm now wondering whether the caliper piston may be sticking so I think I'm going to pick up a new caliper and give it a go... if it doesn't fix it then I'm doing a Tim and waiting for something to go bang!!

Before getting my FL2 I needed to tow my car trailer over to England and back and a friend was kind enough to lend me his 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander which I understand has the same Diesel engine as the FL2. I drove it for about 1,000 miles and at no time did it ever exhibit the vibration/resonance at around 1,800 rpm that many of us seem to have with our FL2s. Since it’s seemingly directly related to revs and not road speed it seems unlikely to be a transmission problem and my friend wondered if it might be related to the alternator drive belt. Looking at aftermarket belts, the Outlander would seem to have a different part number to the LR one so perhaps they have different alternators and the problem might lie there or, if there is one, with the idler pulley?

Thoughts, anyone?
P.S. Another check of drive belts would suggest they are the same after all, as are the alternators! Ah well, it seemed like a good idea.

If you are looking at vibration in the alternator area, have you checked the one way clutch in pulley?

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic25448.ht...tor+pulley

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Interesting indeed. To be honest, I haven’t started investigating anything yet but am puzzled by this odd vibration at the same spot in the rev range, no matter which gear, although it’s more apparent in the higher gears. It also coincides, more or less, with maximum torque ...?

Hi yes I drove with no prop for a week or so and although not as bad the vibes were still there . When I first started looking into this problem my first thought was serpentine belt tensioner as it was wobbling like mad so checked alternator pulley swapped belt and tensioner and also crank pulley too , no difference .