the engine stop quickly and quietly when I turn off
Thanks for answer

bxzx16v wrote:

I've had two throttle bodies replaced on two Fl2's , both were calibrated by the Landrover tech I use .

Mark

I'll check why the throttle body has to be calibrated later as the cars in for a service.

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

I've been told that it's not essential to calibrate the throttle body as it will find it's own position . Calibrating syncs it with the Egr .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Thanks to all your help I have also fixed this problem. I thought I'd share my experience of the OBD2 scanner I purchased in order to identify the code and clear the engine fault light. Also I thought you'd be interested to know about the oem part that is identical to the LR part but at around half the cost.

So, the amber engine fault light lit up on my 2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4. Rather than pay the garage circa £50 to read the fault code I thought I'd take a chance on doing it myself by investing in an OBD2 reader.

After reading lots of reviews I selected the NEXPEAK NX501 as it offered a good balance of performance against cost. I knew and am quite happy that it does not access additional CAN bus modules such as the airbag module, and it will not decipher specific Land Rover codes (you need to look these up).

The unit is well packed and comes with a nice bag which holds the scanner, leads and manual.

The first thing to do is update the firmware, this was straightforward on my Windows 10 laptop. Download the the latest version from the Download Centre (https://www.nexpeaktech.com/service/Download-Center.html) and attach the scanner whilst pressing the 'OK' button. Follow the couple of instructions and the update is done!

Now to business. Connect the scanner to the car's OBD2 socket (located to the right of the steering wheel under the dash) and start the engine. The scanner springs to life.

Then I followed the instructions to read the codes (in my case it showed 'P02E1 - not in database') and a quick Google to this Forum (hurrah!) identified this to be the 'Diesel Intake Air Flow Performance', as you know a common fault which requires a replacement throttle body. As it was an intermittent fault I used the scanner to clear the fault resulting in the warning light turning off.

I obtained a new oem throttle body for £89 via a eBay (Pierburg part number 7.01002.09.0, LR012598) and followed a simple video fitting guide found on YouTube. Job took about an hour.

You can see in the photos that the part numbers stamped on the throttle bodies are (almost) the same. For some reason part of one of the numbers on the oem body has been scratched out, I don't know why this is the case. The Pierburg box was security sealed and so this is definitely how it was supplied to the seller. Note that the throttle body is used by many vehicle manufacturers so the important number is '7.01002.09.0'.

Success! Total outlay £59 (scanner) and £89 (throttle body), and I've the scanner to diagnose future faults. The Main Dealer cost would have been £77 to read the code, and £373 to supply and fit the LR boxed part. This would also have included calibration which I would love to know more about.

Total saving £302!

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Just changed the throttle body today, quite a nice simple job and all done in about half an hour.
A good set of t handle torx makes for easy bolt access.
Only unexpected find was the mess left from a mouse getting under the engine cover, never had to vacuum an engine before

Looks like the throttle body needs changing on my car; SDD is throwing almost every fault code available for it and shutdown is far from smooth.

Can't say I've noticed anything odd while driving but I recently got a fault for "EGR stuck closed"- from reading another thread on here I've gathered the two may be related. I've used some Wynns EGR cleaner and no smoke at all came out of the exhaust at any point, either while spraying it in or driving afterwards. Here's hoping it's just a glitch

Ok, throttle body changed and working well - all fault codes for it are gone.

Got a new problem now; three fault codes: EGR stuck open AND closed (mmmkay..), and EGR circuit low. Definitely just had the stuck closed code before doing this. I've touched nothing except for the throttle body itself and MAP sensor to get at one of the torx bolts.

I'm suspecting this is just an electrical glitch - is there anything I can do within SDD to fix this? Thanks all

Tinytim wrote:

Just changed the throttle body today, quite a nice simple job and all done in about half an hour.
A good set of t handle torx makes for easy bolt access.
Only unexpected find was the mess left from a mouse getting under the engine cover, never had to vacuum an engine before

Update on the odd EGR faults:

Running the turbo, egr and air path test in SDD (which it "highly recommended") seems to have cured these conflicting fault codes. They haven't returned since I cleared them after this test. Will know for sure after a long drive tomorrow.

Another one to add to the black museum! I can’t believe the difference a new throttle body has made to shutdown. No more shudders.

Hi

I have a loud continuous whine when the engine is running. It seems to be coming from an area just behind the grill and towards the left side of the engine (R when viewed from the front looking aft). It's a continuous pitch that carries on for 2 or 3 seconds after the engine stopped; some on the 4um have suggested it's the throttle body but there's no rattle or shudder as others have described.

Thanks, Andy

Hi,

Came across this forum and thread while googling two error codes on my Freelander 2 (P02E7 & P02E8). I was not able to delete the error codes through my OBD2 app, leaving the engine in constant "reduced engine performace" mode. Just wanted to leave the solution to my problem as it seems to be different from most of the other answers in this thread.

The error codes I got was suggesting a sticking/obstucted throttle valve. I took the throttle body off of the car and gently removed the thin metal cover on the side which is covering the sprockets. To my surprise the sprockets were all in perfect condition, but the throttle valve was obviously stuck about midway between fully open and fully closed. I grabbed the throttle valve and tried to move it with my hand, sort of jerking it back and forth and suddenly it came loose. When I turned the body over to inspect the sprockets one more time a small piece of black plastic fell out (about 2x2x2 mm). After that I was able to actuate the valve with my hand and it was moving without sticking. I was not able to tell where the plastic piece originated from... After reinstalling everything to the vehicle the error codes where gone on the first start up and the car drives like normal (Note that I have not had any rattling on shutdown but I definitely had the engine shudder that everyone keep mentioning).

Fortunately for me this was about an hour of work and 0 money spent. But I still wonder where that black plastic piece came from...

Was the black plastic circular? Could be the prong on the MAP sensor?. The end of my MAP sensor fell off when I was removing the throttle body for inspection.
Changing the MAP sensor (2008 HSE 140k miles) has fixed a terrain response system fault and made a big difference to the running. £40 Euro car parts.
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...20copy.jpg
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8930-15.html

2010 TD4 with 80,000km. Put the key in and heard the grinding. Then upon shutdown it shuddered. Then the grinding noise occurred for 15 seconds.

Sounds like classic throttle body hey?