Richard,

Thanks for sharing.

The things that you have tried are what I would have done, except that I would have briefly run the engine with the belt removed to determine if the noise was still there or absent.

Note: there has been some discussion about freewheel over drive type pulley's, the 3.2 has 2 of them one for the AC, Water pump/Power steering pump and one for the alternator (part number are shown below)

Here is a list of parts that can cause a screeching noise

LR004667 AUX Belt tensioner (you replaced this)
LR006076 Idler Pulley (you replaced this)
LR003570 AUX Belt (You replaced this)
LR005993 Overdrive pulley for AUX Belt
LR007207 Power Steering pump
LR000578 Power steering Reservoir (a clogged reservoir causes the pump to get loud)
- Power steering fluid (Pentosin CHF 202)
LR006861 Water Pump

LR031223 Alternator
LR025968 Alternator over drive pulley
- Loose bolt for Alternator drive pulley

LR020193 AC Compressor
- Clutch pack for AC compressor




A few things to consider

1) The AUX (Serpentine belt) has an over drive clutch attached to the READ drive -LR005993
2) The Alternator also has an over drive pulley - LR025968
3) Bearings in the Water pump, Power steering pump, AC compressor and Alternator can fail and cause high pitched noises
4) The PCV system can also cause a high pitched noise (it doesn't sound like this is your problem)
5) The clutch pack for the AC system wears out over time (I am not sure if it makes a high pitch noise)
6) The power steering reservoir has a screen in the bottom that gets clogged, it should be replaced and the fluid replaced as well
7) If you turn off the HVAC then the compressor should no longer be engaged
8 For the Alternator you can evaluate the output by turning on the heat seats and defroster

I realize that its a big list


Start simple

Change the Power Steering Reservoir and flush the fluid. Make sure that you don't have air bubbles in the fluid (remove the cap at the reservoir and look)

Load the Alternator at idle and check the voltage output (I can point you to another thread that has typical voltage measurements) if the pulley is actually loose then the Alternator should not be charging. If you turn on the defroster and seat heater and the output is good then the pulley is probably tight. Note: repeat this test with the noise present does it get louder. (the alternator has bearings)

Turn off the AC when the noise is present does it help?

Just for fun: remove the oil fill cap with the noise present (engine should continue to idle with little to no change for the noise) the PVC can make a high pitched noise but it typically sounds different than what you are experiencing

Turn the steering to load the pump with the noise present.


Good Luck

Paul

I stand corrected - there is overrun clutch for the alternator - thanks p-gill

Reading from the manual for the 3.2



"The polyvee accessory drive-belt obtains its drive from a shaft, powered by the crankshaft. The accessory drive-belt powers
the:
AC compressor,
engine coolant pump, and
power steering pump
The engine coolant pump and the power-steering pump share a common coupling.
Belt tension is maintained by an automatic tension system which provides a constant tension without belt slip.
The generator is directly attached by a coupling to the rear of the crankshaft driven shaft. This direct drive arrangement
improves the generator's durability by preventing side-loadings, caused by the tension of a drive belt, acting on the
generator's rotor bearing."

Looks to me that the belt doesnt drive the alternator. The belt appears to be driven by the same shaft drive coupling that drives the alternator - I guess the clutch for the alternator is somewhere between the coupling and the alternator. Jules

Jules,

The pictures that you are looking at are a bit confusing


Here is a picture of the AUX belt (serpentine belt)
#34 is the freewheel pulley
#31 AUX belt
#33 idler Pulley
#32 tensioner





Here is a picture of the pulley #34

Note: the splines to remove the pulley as you hold the shaft still





And here is a picture of the Alternator Freewheel pulley and the Belt for the alternator





And a sketch of the alternator pulley and belt




And here is the tool needed to remove either pulley




Hopefully this helps

Thanks

Paul

jules wrote:

I stand corrected - there is overrun clutch for the alternator - thanks p-gill

Cheers Paul

Having now seen the removal tool Im glad Ive got a more traditional arrangement on my SD4's alternator. Jules

Gentlemen, I thank you sincerely for your input on this topic. It has been most helpful.

As a result of your illustrated and annotated input (along with some timely help from an AULRO forum member) I have decided to "go back in".

I removed the intake and associated covers, hoses, and connectors to get at the alternator which I removed and attempted take the over-run pulley off, however without the correct tools it is nigh on impossible. (Ordered the Gates removal tool)

The bearing arrangement inside the unit still works a little but the majority of it has turned to a red-brown dust/paste. My local indie doesn't even recognise LR025968 nor can anyone else locally get me one A)in a timely fashion or B) without costing the earth.

So as the car is needed and can't be laid up for weeks, I have opted to double handle and put it back together as is. I find that here in Australia if I need LR parts it is often as quick or quicker to simply order them direct out of the UK (order placed last night)

Condition of LR025968 as found

https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/...y-2011.pdf


Can't seem to add a PDF to the topic, but this link shows the tool kit needed and even more interestingly at the bottom of the last page shows an exploded colour diagram of the internals of the over run clutch set up. Worth a look.

Richard,

it looks like you have a possible source for the noise.

The AOC (Alternator overdrive coupling) is available from other sources

Cross reference part numbers (all of these should work)


FORD 6G9N-10D311-AB
LAND ROVER LR025968
VOLVO 30750109
VOLVO 31316804
Continental Elite 49923
Littens 535 0175 100
INA 535 0175 10
Gates K0EG2
ACDelco K0EG2

Remember when the parts guy says that it wont fit a Land Rover tell him that its for your friends Volvo XC70 and if he says that it fits then say that fine and install it on you XC70 (Freelander 2 edition)

Hopefully one of these is available to you

One of the big manufacturers for AOC is INA

Link to their page

https://webcat.schaeffler.com/web/schaeffl...&csc=1


If it helps the AOC is also used on all of these Volvo's

VOLVO
S60 II (134), 04/10 -
S80 II (124), 03/06 -
V60 (155, 157), 07/10 -
V70 III (135), 04/07 -
XC60 (156), 05/08 -
XC70 II (136), 04/07 -
XC90 I (275), 06/02 - 12/14

Good Luck

Up till midnight last night and another hour before work this morning and I have now replaced both over run clutches (alternator and serpentine side), new thermostat while I was in there and new oil cooler to block hose (just as well on both accounts as the plastic for both items was disintegrating and both fell apart when removing them!!!)

HOWEVER! Wife reports to me just now that the noise is still there

The only rotating parts left now are the power steer pump, water pump, and the ac compressor, perhaps alternator bearings.

I want to use this car for holiday travel in a couple of days....admittedly the noise has been there over 12 months now.

Richard

I am sorry to hear that you are still fighting the problem

Listen to this video

Does this sound like the problem your having?



To evaluate the PCV system just remove the oil fill cap

The RPM should drop slightly (almost not noticeable)

If the noise changes significantly when you remove the cap then the PCV may be broken


One last thought I discovered that my LR2 will stall at idle if I disconnect the MAF

But if I remove the oil fill cap and disconnect the MAF it will idle

Don’t give up!!!!

You are going to solve it!!!!

Congrats on replacing the coolant hose, thermostat. You did the right thing.

Good luck

Paul

Hi Paul,

YES! the sound in that video is exactly what mine is doing. Do you know what it is? Is this the PCV system?

Richard,

Another link that may help

The water pump was the root cause

Note: this is an XC90 and the procedure seems even worse than it is for us if that’s possible (same engine just more things to move out of the way)

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82356

Take care

Paul

Richard

Yes the sound from the video is the PCV

I replaced mine but it wasn’t making any noise

Take a look at this thread


http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32107.html


Good luck

Paul

Paul, do you have a part number for the PCV? What goes wrong with them, do you think it can be fixed or is it replace only?

https://vanos-bmw.com/product/membrane-land-rover-engine-b6324s

A quick search shows that the Russians are onto this PCV problem and are reproducing a 'membrane' that is evidently the failed item inside the cover. One would assume this is where the whistle comes from and the reason why I only get the whistle at idle IE high vacuum pulling past the perforated membrane.

Richard.