Thanks for the help, guys.

Dealership says either fuel pump (which they offered to change and says they've done on a few LR2's) or fuel pressure sensor/fuel sender unit sensor.

I'm leaning towards the sensor due to the fact there was a full year without any issues between both instances of the car stalling. I feel like it must happen when the sensor runs hot. It if it was the fuel pump, my thinking is that it would have failed or at least hesitated in the year since the last issue. Thoughts?

I've ordered the sensor from the dealership. Once it is in in 4 to 5 days, I guess I'll book an appointment to get it replaced (350$ CAN including 1.5 hours labour). Although I'd love to do this on my own, I do not have a TOPIX subscription nor do I have a garage or a large toolset, so I guess it will have to go to the dealers, unless I can be persuaded by someone on here that it's extremely simple to replace!

Appreciating the feedback so far, however small.

It's easy to DIY. Once you removed the engine cover, it is held in position only by one screw... See below the red arrow.

Alex_pescaru, I've read a few of your posts and can only hope to be half as DIY-handy as you once I get a bit of practice!

I'm assuming, however, that the sensor will need to be recognized/reprogrammed with the Engine Control Module, and hence that I will need the dealer to do that? (Don't have a code-reader). If it's solely a case of taking out the screw and swapping sensors, I'm curious as to why I'm being quote with 1.5 hours of labour.

Once again, thanks for the support on this. I'll keep everyone updated as to what happens with the new sensor and if it fixes the issue or not.

Currently have the vehicle back and using it - it's running fine other than the check engine light being on, I'm guessing the code wasn't cleared. Dealer will call me when the sensor comes in.

You need to release the pressure in the system and that you'll do it with the valve in the opposite side than the sensor of the fuel rail. It's a valve similar to the ones on the tires.
Then the sensor is a simple swap, I don't believe you need to program something.
In the end it's a simple pressure/temperature sensor...

Thanks Alex! I'll look into it!

Any update to this problem? I am having the exact same thing happening to my 2008 LR2. I've taken it in twice and the first time they couldn't find anything wrong. It happened again on our way back from our beach vacation. Drove probably 700 miles before it happened again. Took it back to the shop and they recommended changing the fuel sensor. It hasn't happened again but we've only driven it maybe a hundred miles around town. I did hear some muffler sounds before I took it in the last time. They didn't say anything about that, but I just crawled under and the front (interm.) muffler is leaking along the seam. Guess I'll be fixing that, but not sure it has anything to do with the original problem.

Not an update.....but I will share my experience

I disconnected my MAF when I was bleeding my power steering fluid.

With the MAF disconnected and the engine at idle it did rev up and down and eventually stall.

Good luck with your troubles

Paul

ctl11 wrote:

.... muffler is leaking along the seam. Guess I'll be fixing that, but not sure it has anything to do with the original problem.

Just saw the forum notifications in my Inbox...

Here's a summary of what's happened so far on my end:

June 2015 - the First instance where the vehicle stalls. Long highway drive 5+ hours and it stalls on the highway. Warm ambient temps (30 degrees). Did not repair anything as it ran fine afterward until next summer.

Summer 2016. Vehicle stalls again after a long highway drive (2+ hours) in warm weather. Ran fine afterward. Replaced fuel flow sensor.

Summer 2017 - no issues.

Summer 2018 - Vehicle stalls again on the highway after driving for 2+ hours in warm weather. Let it sit 15 mins and runs fine after. Replaced fuel flow sensor. Then two months later, check engine light comes on after another long highway drive (2+ hours) in warm weather. The vehicle doesn't stall this time but struggles to deliver full power. Once again, once it's shut off and sits for a while, it runs fine after.

The dealership took it for a test drive with a fuel pressure reader. Fuel pump was delivering ok idle pressure but then would give different readings when driving at a stable speed. So....

Just replaced the fuel pump driver module last week! Hopefully, that was the culprit; will let you guys know if I encounter any more fuel flow issues!

Cheers