yes, sorry a Manual

Will take a little look on the evoke forum

Finally updated my profile also

This is a really interesting thread!

I’ve got a 2013 sd4 auto and it suffers from this issue when temp gets to 18c or higher.
I narrowed it down to a certain position on the thottle, if I’m travelling at 50 mph and use the live mpg it always happened when mpg is between 20-35 on the readout.

I haven’t seen anyone mention about cruise control? As mine does this when this is activated as well which is confusing as surely it doesn’t use the throttle pedal?

I checked my pedal and its manufacture date is 08-feb-2013

I’m tempted to try a pedal from eBay which same codings but from July 2012 and see what happens. 

I was sent here by DorsetFreelander after I posted in the hesitation sticky thread.

I too have the similar symptoms. Late 2010 (December) 60 plate facelift manual FL2. Hesitation between 1800 and 2000rpm only when the weather is warm.

My throttle pedal details are:

7G9N-9F836-GB
6PV 010 834-26
RHD

Manufacture date is 25-11-2010.

I'll try the replacement throttle pedal and post up if it has cured the issue.

Update from Skye...

Just as a reminder, my car is a 2011 TD4 manual with about 58,000 miles. I have already replaced the original crankshaft position sensor in an unsuccessful attempt to cure what I refer to as 'the jerk'.

The £14 throttle pedal I ordered from Ebay arrived today. I was a little disappointed to find the date on the pedal's sticker was 2008, when the picture on the one I ordered was 2010...

However, sticking to my belief that all the TD4 manual pedals are the same (there is only one Land Rover part number for the right hand drive TD4 manual, in spite of the sticky labels on the pedals having different numbers and dates on them) I went ahead and swapped my existing 2011 pedal with the 2008 one. It is a VERY simple job - took about 5 minutes. To get to the top nut, you will need a long extension bar and a universal joint. The nuts are 10mm and there are no washers. The electrical connection can be left on the pedal until the pedal is removed from the car, it then simply pulls off.

So - new pedal fitted - off for a drive. Ambient temperature here was 18C this afternoon, from the car's dashboard display. Most interestingly - the car MOST DEFINITELY felt different, BUT I still have an occasional jerk - though the jerks are much less frequent than with the original pedal, and in the 20 miles or so I have driven this afternoon (trying hard to induce a 'jerk') the 'jerks' only occurred about 3 times, every time in 2nd gear at about 1500rpm - exactly the same as before the pedal swap. Other times, the car accelerated smoothly with no jerk at all in 2nd. The most noticable difference is a distinctly improved smoothness when accelerating from low engine speeds in every gear, and a feeling of more torque right from almost stationary in 2nd gear (1000rpm), with a strong pull in every gear, including 6th, from 1200rpm or so. The car will also now 'trickle' very happily in 3rd or 4th at about 1200rpm, with no lumpiness, or the feeling that I should be in a lower gear. I don't think it would have done that with the original pedal.

OK - what's going on? (Post your answers below please, chaps)!

From the recent posts above, it seems like the problem (if it is the same problem in every case) affects post 2011 TD4 cars and even automatics. Autos certainly have a different throttle pedal (different part number). So - the theory that there was a batch of faulty pedals/electronics fitted to the first of the facelift cars (2011) seems to have been dis-proven.

In my case - how can replacing the throttle pedal REDUCE the occurrence of the jerks without eliminating the issue?? I know my car well enough to know that replacing the pedal has definitely made a difference to the way the car drives.

I am still agonising over what actually happens when the car 'jerks'. It cannot be a misfire, as diesels don't actually 'fire' at all. Is there a momentary decompression in one or more cylinders that prevents the injected fuel from igniting? Or momentarily, is no fuel injected?? Wouldn't that be an ECU software issue, and not a mechanical one???

Any guesses? AAArrrgh! Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

Are you sure there is only 1 part number?

LR000911, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD to:(V)7H056328
LR000912, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD to:(V)7H054943
LR000914, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD to:(V)7H054943
LR004528, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD to:(V)7H055297
LR007637, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD from:(V)7H056329 to:(V)BH243602
LR007638, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD from: (V)7H054944 to:(V)BH240083
LR007639, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD from:(V)7H055298 to:(V)BH242572
LR007640, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from: (V)7H054944 to: (V)BH242209
LR031900, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD from:(V)BH243603
LR031901, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD from:(V)BH240084
LR031902, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD from:(V)BH242573
LR031903, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from:(V)BH242210

"Are you sure there is only 1 part number? "

Where did you find all those??? Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

SkyeGuy wrote:

Where did you find all those???

grumsel wrote:

Are you sure there is only 1 part number?

LR000911, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD to:(V)7H056328
LR000912, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD to:(V)7H054943
LR000914, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD to:(V)7H054943
LR004528, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD to:(V)7H055297
LR007637, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD from:(V)7H056329 to:(V)BH243602
LR007638, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD from: (V)7H054944 to:(V)BH240083
LR007639, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD from:(V)7H055298 to:(V)BH242572
LR007640, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from: (V)7H054944 to: (V)BH242209
LR031900, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, LHD from:(V)BH243603
LR031901, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, LHD from:(V)BH240084
LR031902, 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSAXLE - M66 2WD, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS M66 - AWD, RHD from:(V)BH242573
LR031903, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from:(V)BH242210

I would think that when a part is superseded the old part is obsolete, the new part is built slightly differently but still to the same fitment and usage specs. Why would they otherwise stick a new part number on it?

Quote:

I would think that when a part is superseded the old part is obsolete, the new part is built slightly differently but still to the same fitment and usage specs. Why would they otherwise stick a new part number on it?

Just an update from me on this.

2013 sd4 Auto

Been having what I thought were identicle issues so went and got a 2nd hand pedal.
Just fitted it and unfortunately the issue still persists!
So must be another cause, anyone want to buy a pedal  

Update from my end. Managed to get some time today to get to the dealer and pick up the new throttle assembly. Part number was LR031902.





New assembly:




Old removed assembly:



The difference is immediate. No more hesitation between 1800 and 2000 rpm. A lot smoother from standstill. Will keep monitoring it but it was money well spent so far. It showed me how much i’ve been compensating without noticing.

Watching this with great interest. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Update from Skye...

In my last post, I told how I had replaced my 2011 car's throttle pedal with a super-cheap 2008 one from Ebay (£14). There was a marked difference in the way the car drove in the rural landscape here on Skye, though the 'jerk' was still apparent occasionally.

However, today I have had a trip to the vast metropolis of Inverness, and in town driving, the car remains an absolute pig. From every standing start, there is a significant jerk in 1st gear at about 1500rpm. By revving in 1st to over 3000, it is possible to avoid the 2nd gear jerk. In other gears at about 1500rpm, there is still a sensation of 'hesitation' - though not an actual 'jerk'. On the plus-side - In all lower gears (1 to 4) with pedal-to-the-floor, the car accelerates like a startled rabbit. It never did that on the original pedal.

So - my 2008 throttle pedal has not cured my car's hesitation/jerk issue, and I suspect the difference in the way the torque or turbo boost is delivered is just down to me now having an earlier-spec pedal on my car.

Anyone care to donate £70 so I can see if a brand new pedal cures the issue? I am so reluctant to spend that much only to find the issue is still there...!!! Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

Has anyone with the problem approached LR customer services on the forum to see if they can help with a sale or return deal ? Or perhaps Dan at Duckworth ? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE