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Home > Technical > 2011 facelift 150bhp engine with intermediate missing |
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SkyeGuy Member Since: 23 Nov 2017 Location: Dunvegan, Isle of Skye Posts: 104 |
As far as I can ascertain - those are not the part numbers - though my car's throttle pedal has precisely the same numbers on it. I believe the only part number for the 2007 - 2014 RHD manual is LR031902. There are indeed several different part numbers for the Auto.
My car has a 'jolt' or 'judder' at 1400 rpm or so under gentle-ish acceleration - most often noticed in 2nd gear. However, I tried your test (above) today, and my car passed with flying colours. So it would seem likely that the faults we are or were experiencing are similar but different. Having said that - as used throttle pedals can be bought for very little cash, and are an easy DIY job to fit, I might just try a different one anyway... Currently enjoying: 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD) 2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto 2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe |
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7th Jun 2018 6:07 pm |
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pv3001 Member Since: 21 May 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 10 |
Hi,
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8th Jun 2018 10:45 am |
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1796 |
Very interesting read about the replacement pedal. Will keep an eye on this one as it seems like a simple fix if a consistent part number is known.
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10th Jun 2018 12:41 am |
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Tigger Member Since: 30 Mar 2011 Location: L15KRD Posts: 2555 |
Looking back at the above post, the dealer did say at the time that LR were working on a fix, but no one could give any indication of how long it would take. In the end, I took a £1,500 subsidy from LR to upgrade to a newer, 2013 registered, SD4 automatic, which was perfect and never stuttered once. I was told that SD4’s were never effected by this problem, but that doesn’t see to be true. Is it fair to say that LR never did fix the problem and will have now lost interest? |
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10th Jun 2018 7:22 am |
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dorsetfreelander Member Since: 20 Jul 2013 Location: Dorset Posts: 4354 |
When we had the problem with our 2011 model I got LR customer services involved and had the same response from the dealer in Yeovil who said at the time that they had three other customers with this issue. The did a “recalibration of the air flow system” which seemed to help in our case. I can’t believe it will ever be fixed now especially as all FL2s are out of manufacturers warranty. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
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10th Jun 2018 7:33 am |
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Tigger Member Since: 30 Mar 2011 Location: L15KRD Posts: 2555 |
Interestingly, the dealer that put it back (who shall remain nameless!) said that they put it straight back out on the forecourt! I was told that faults like this were often never noticed by the next owner
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10th Jun 2018 5:40 pm |
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SkyeGuy Member Since: 23 Nov 2017 Location: Dunvegan, Isle of Skye Posts: 104 |
In this case - I can believe that. Driving-style, where you do your driving, and even the time of year are definitely factors as to whether or not the issue would be noticed in my car. As reported many times before - the issue bizarrely appears to be temperature sensitive. I only became aware of a 'jolt' issue in my car when daytime ambient temperatures on Skye soared to about 18C and above. Below that temperature, there was never a problem. Driving style - I generally accelerate quite gently - changing up from first gear at 2000 - 2500rpm. This puts the engine speed at about 1200rpm in second. I get the 'jolt' at about 1500rpm (unless I am being VERY gentle on the throttle, in which case there is no jolt at all). If I accelerate harder, changing up from first at 3,000+rpm, I am then in second at 2000+rpm, which is above the 'jolt' speed - so there is no jolt. In town traffic though (which I seldom experience, living where I do) the jolt would is more difficult to avoid, as one inevitably 'trickles' in a queue at low speed (below 1500rpm) in second gear, and then accelerates from that engine speed when conditions allow - well, that's how I drive! Currently enjoying: 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD) 2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto 2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe |
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10th Jun 2018 6:14 pm |
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pv3001 Member Since: 21 May 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 10 |
There are six electrical connectors as shown I have google searched and the throttle sensor appears to use a number of inductive proximity sensors, where the metal plate is detected by an electro-magnetic detection field produced by each sensor. A bit like a metal detector, hence there is no contact between the sensors and the metal plate. In respect of temperature sensitivity, I bought my car last November and never noticed the fault during the winter. it wasn't until the warmer weather came along that the fault showed itself, but it could easily have just developed. Surely temperature sensitivity, if proved could rule out many potential sources for the problem. My knowledge of physics does not extend beyond the use of google but it would be interesting to know if electro magnetic detection is or can be temperature sensitive. |
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11th Jun 2018 9:53 am |
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1796 |
Would be interesting it is was throttle pedal related. If the pedal works thanks to the connection of various copper plates, it wouldn't surprise me if the physical properties of these metal parts varies depending on temperature. Things conduct differently at different temperatures. Maybe the variation is just enough to confuse the car a little.
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11th Jun 2018 11:57 am |
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TOGGI Member Since: 02 Jul 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 4 |
JUST TO SAY HAD DREADED MISSING ON A REGULAR BASIS ON MY 2011 GS JUST CHANGED THROTTLE ASSY TODAY NO MORE HESSITATION. BRILL. WILL LET YOU KNOW IF ITS PERMANENT |
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2nd Jul 2018 8:01 pm |
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SkyeGuy Member Since: 23 Nov 2017 Location: Dunvegan, Isle of Skye Posts: 104 |
TOGGI - I've been searching without success for a pedal assembly with exactly the same letters/numbers as on the sticker on the pedal on my car. Does your replacement pedal have the same numbers as the one you have replaced? Do the numbers on the sticker actually matter? Currently enjoying:
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3rd Jul 2018 8:09 am |
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dorsetfreelander Member Since: 20 Jul 2013 Location: Dorset Posts: 4354 |
I wonder if the explanation is simply that LR bought a batch of pedals in 2011 which had a few dodgy ones in there? After all not every 2011 model had the problem apparently. Given the physics of how these things work it's unlikely that they "wear out" or be so temperature sensitive. I would be interested to smash one up and see if there is an encapsulated electronic module inside or whether it's done elsewhere. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
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3rd Jul 2018 8:49 am |
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TOGGI Member Since: 02 Jul 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 4 |
HI THERE ARE AT LEAST 4 PEDAL ASSY NUMBERS THE PEDAL LABEL DOES NOT HAVE A LANDROVER NUMBER ON IT BEWARE BUT IT HAS A MANUFACTURE DATE IF YOU BUY OFF EBAY DONT BUY ONE MADE IN 2011 I DIDNT CHANCE IT BOUGHT NEW AROUND 78 £ DELIVERED GOT MINE FROM MATFORD LANDROVER IT IS A DIRECT REPLACE MENT IDLE SPEED WAS BANG ON AFTER FITTING I HAVE PART NO FOR 20011 MANUAL GS RHD LR031902 BUT QUOTE VIN NO TO THEM ITS EARLY DAYS FOR ME ONLY FITTED FOR TWO DAYS BUT HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET CAR TO DO IT BUT BEEN BRILL IT DID IT EVERY DAY IN SUMMER BEFORE FINGERS CROSSED |
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3rd Jul 2018 9:31 am |
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Yorky Bob Member Since: 28 Apr 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 4561 |
Toggi, please take the caps lock off. Its seen as shouting at someone. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
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3rd Jul 2018 1:43 pm |
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