Somewhere on this forum there is a reference to the 2011 hesitation fault being specific to a certain ECU and software level that was introduced in the early facelift models which appeared that year with the introduction of the DPF. Hopefully you have fixed your fault but it may not be whole story. My son used to drive our 2011 and complained about the problem so we swapped vehicles (I had a 2010) and for me I never experienced it (so it could be a driving style issue?). Certainly LR couldn't get to the bottom of it and I even had LR customer services involved with the dealer at one point. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Hi,

Clearly I cannot speak for anybody else but I am very confident that changing the throttle pedal sensor it has solved the problem for me. I too sent my car to Land Rover in the first instance, they did a complete diagnosis and they could not find a fault. I was advised to monitor and take it back should the problem persist / get worse. That is when I started thinking logically about what could have caused the problem. The problem is subtle but potentially dangerous if you try and pull out and the power dips.

It is also quite logical that the problem could be the throttle position sensor. A lack of sensitivity or fault of the throttle sensor at the lower end would account for the hesitancy when pulling away. It would account for nearly stalling when you pull away on light throttle, then a sudden surge as you depress the throttle more. It would also account for the different driving styles being more or less impacted by the problem as driving style is quite determined by the use of the throttle. When I checked part numbers, yes the part number for facelift models is different from earlier models. So I decided to change the throttle sensor as a low cost option compared to taking it back to LR, as I said £17.50 is what I paid for mine. The improvement was immediate, the car is driving normally again and actually emphasised how I much I had normalised my driving to accommodate the fault. hence why I decided to share my findings on the forum.

The ultimate test would be to put my old throttle on a car that drives normally and see if the fault is there, but unfortunately I don't have two LR's

Your comments are very interesting and could explain a lot of things as one thing that we did notice between the 2011 and 2010 models that we had was a very different throttle response, the 2011 one always felt more sensitive. I now have an SD4 auto so different again. Your fix should clearly be looked at and tried by anyone with this issue as LR certainly won't fix it now. Cheers.

For reference there is another 2011 problem that has been experienced on the forum a few times. You start the car and the engine shakes wildly as if it's misfiring. Switch off and restart and all is well. Used to happen to me a couple of times a year at random. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Mine is doing it again now with the warm weather, and worse than in the previous few years. I had given up with LR since they claimed that it never reproduced for them despite having it for several days at a time (and hardly driving it based upon the mileage). However it's been under warranty/extended warranty since new, so I have decided this year to push more for a fix. It's allegedly had the corrective procedure done, but clearly hasn't fixed anything.

What I've also noticed is that if I sit with my foot on the brake in D for more than 30 seconds or so, I can get the judder on pulling away. Also if sat for a while in the sun it will judder on pull away after starting.

To me they're clearly all fuel supply issues, so I struggle to see why they can't fix it. I've called to book it in, and they're 'discussing' what the best approach should be and will call me back... allegedly.

pv3001, is your problem limited to just pulling away from a standstill, and does it always do it regardless of ambient temperature? I, and I believe many others, have discovered that a heavy right foot can overcome the reluctance to move off at times.

Hi,
The problem did seem to be temperature dependent, but it was difficult to pin-point. It also came on gradually so was difficult to notice when it started. The problem did feel like the fuel was contaminated or it was a fuel supply problem. There was a time when I thought it improved when I filled up with fuel. However, once I thought that the throttle sensor may be causing the issue I drove around for about two weeks trying to relate the problem to throttle position rather than other factors such as speed, revs, fuel contaminants, temperature, pulling away etc. It was a different way of looking at it and it did seem to fit, for example the problem was evident at low throttle range.

The problem wasn't just when pulling away, it was driving at slow speed and always 'cured' by being heavier with the right foot.

Once I changed the throttle pedal the change back was immediate and noticeable and i realised how much I had adapted my driving to accommodate the fault (i.e. being heavier with the right foot).

Two things I can do now which were difficult before but I had't noticed:
Drive around the car park smoothly at very slow speeds looking for a space.
Drive exactly and consistently at 30mph, this is 2000 revs in 3rd gear with very light throttle, before the car would either slow down or I had to be a bit harder on the gas which would cause the car to accelerate.

As your car is still under warranty perhaps they could change the pedal and see if it resolves the problem, I doubt whether there is a test. It is so quick to change 3 x 10mm nuts and an electrical connection.

Please update with what happened, i would be interested to find out.

I have read right through this thread, and acknowledge that my car (2011 TD4 manual, 57.000 miles) is showing much the same symptoms as everyone else. - that is, a jerk or jolt at about 1500rpm when accelerating gently-ish in low gear. I bought my car last autumn, and the problem has only occurred as the ambient temperatures have risen this spring/summer.

I have read about the same issue on other forums. A strong suggestion throughout has been a faulty crankshaft position sensor. So I replaced mine. The jerk/jolt was completely cured for about 10 miles. I was euphoric! But then, pulling out of the next junction in 2nd gear - it was back...! Could something be causing the crankshaft position sensor to fail...??? Or did I buy a faulty sensor???

I popped into my local garage this afternoon. They just want to plug the car into their diagnostic software. I am inclined to try replacing the throttle position sensor first, as per pv3001's suggestion above. There's plenty of them on the auction websites for less than the cost of a diagnostic test. Certainly - the issue only occurs on VERY light application of the throttle...,. it's got to be worth a try.

I'll continue to watch this thread, and will report any of my results - positive or negative. Currently enjoying:
2011 Freelander 2 TD4 XS (SOLD)
2013 BMW X3 20D M-Sport Auto
2007 Jaguar XK 4.2 Coupe

pv3001 wrote:

Hi,

Once I changed the throttle pedal the change back was immediate and noticeable and i realised how much I had adapted my driving to accommodate the fault (i.e. being heavier with the right foot).

Although this sounds an interesting approach and well worth following up. A potentiometer problem in the throttle pedal doesn't explain why the hesitation effect is temperature dependent. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Re: Freelander 2 slight hesitation at 2000rpm
by mikeevans » Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:26 pm
Apologies for the late update but we waited for the customer to use the vehicle for some time before we could safely say that we have fixed the problem We eventually fixed this using "gut feeling" and not electronic diagnosis. The fault seemed to occur with reasonable consistency and we linked this to possible throttle pedal track wear. We checked the price of a new pedal which was approx £40.We ordered one, fitted it,(10 mins) and it has been perfect ever since. It would have been good to diagnose this with the scope but when the suspected parts are low cost, it is sometimes a lot cheaper and quicker to fit the part.
Finding wiring information,searching Land Rover Topix etc is very time consuming and frustrating, and in my view the worst part of the diagnosis process. We use Delphi/Haynes which has very poor wiring coverage. We have trialed most others and find them all lacking- despite their claims. If anyone can recommend a good one please let me know.
Anyway, we have a pleased and satisfied customer who will continue to use us in the future.
mikeevans
OneWave

The above post makes interesting reading and supports your throttle pedal theory.

The original link is https://www.picoauto.com/support/topic14621.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Whilst I accept that it seems to have cured it on this occasion there are a few issues that don't stack up.
1. Did LR start using a different pedal unit in the early 2011?
2. Did they change the design again shortly after since the effect has only been noticed on the early facelift 2011 models?
3. Is the same pedal unit used on other models in which case has it been seen on a 2011 DS for example?
4. Why is it only noticeable in warmer weather?

Sorry for being awkward but this is the scientist in me testing the theory. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Seems they did change something. I found 3 part numbers:

LR000914 PEDAL, L359 FREELANDER, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD to (V)7H054943
LR007640 PEDAL, L359 FREELANDER, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from (V)7H054944 to (V)BH242209
LR031903 PEDAL, L359 FREELANDER, 6 SPEED AUTO AWF21 AWD, RHD from (V)BH242210

On another site: LR031903 superceded product codes LR000914 and LR007640

Different part numbers are listed for manual and/or LHD cars:
LR031900 = Manual, LHD
LR031901 = Auto, LHD
LR031902 = Manual, RHD
LR031903 = Auto, RHD

So Sherlock, the plot thickens. Good detective work there grumsel. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Hi,

Several weeks later and my car is still running like a dream. The part number for my throttle pedal is:

7G9N-9F836-GB
6PV010 834-26
RHD Man



I couldn't see the numbers in situ, but could take photo with my phone good which was good enough to record them. I found an exact replacement on ebay for £17.50 including postage. It is held on by three nuts, the top one is most difficult to access but was easy with a deep 10mm socket and a wobble extension. Took a couple of minutes in total to replace. Judging from the part numbers for various throttles for sale on ebay the part is different for a 2011 model compared to earlier models.

I have also thought of a test drive for the fault, in third gear, on flat empty road let revs drop to 1000 (about 15mph). The gently squeeze the throttle to increase revs to exactly 1200 but not exceeding it. My car can do this now, but I don't think I would have been able to accelerate to 1200 revs without going over before. It would be interesting to see if a car which has the fault can do this consistently.

Finally, I have dismantled the old throttle to have a look (as you do). It is very solid construction (as you would expect), there are four circular sensors which are passed by a piece of metal as the throttle moves. The movement across the sensors for the entire range is perhaps 10 to 15mm for the full throttle range There wasn't any visible fault, sign of wear or contamination. I will take a few photos and upload them tonight.

Just done a bit of searching around and it seems that most throttle position sensors these days are using the Hall Effect which is basically about moving a magnet near a piece of semiconductor. A current flows along the semiconductor block but the presence of the magnet diverts the flow of electrons and effectively sets up a small voltage across the block at right angles to the normal current flow. This is what is measured and used as the control signal as the magnet moves. No physical contact. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I have just googled the same and watched a video on the Hall effect, this does appear to be how the sensor works, there were four circular sensors and a moving piece of metal (magnet). Will upload photos of the inside of the throttle sensor tonight