From a cold start it should be around the same temp give or take as the coolant temp sensor. I will go confirm that in a minute or so. Disconect it and see if it drops to zero if not bridge it with a paper clip and see if it does. Once at zero give it a wind over see if any joy.

I know strange that, same the crank and cam sensors also often don't show faults and cause non starts. Kinda defeats the purpose of the OBD system if they have faults that don't show.

Just be careful buying parts off of eBay always give them a phone to confirm that they will fit. Been stung a couple of times myself.

Alex, I should have mentioned that I used the amp clamp along with the oscilloscope set on the 1ms setting apparently this should have showed up the injector pulses ok if there were any. There are demos of this process on u-tube, see auto-inform on u-tube. Please correct me if I'm overlooking something here though. Many thanks again the Dog.

Tried plugging autoboss in and reading the oil temp on my car but it doesn't give me anything on oil temp. New cable for Sdd should be here tomorrow or the next day so I will have a look then.

If it is at 500 Fahrenheit it's worth baring in mind at that point your engine oil would be on the brink of catching fire if not on fire. So it would make sense if the PCM stopped the injectors at that point. Worth a few more moments of investigation time.

I remember looking to buy an FL2, which had an odd misfire/lumpiness

Upon plugging in and checking, the engine oil temp was equally ridiculous. I dont think this is your issue...

Its probably wishful thinking on my behalf that the oil temp sensor could be the problem the sensor was never disturbed during the cam replacement work so should not really be throwing a fault. I still find it strange with the high figure reading it was not the figure I expected to see on the OBD scan.

Trav. It would be great to have a plug-in with your scanner to see if it can pull up anything my unit has missed. I'll give you a call.
I'll need to go back again and check the fuel pressure output from the HP pump and confirm it reds in PSI.
Thanks again fellows.

Have you tried a little carb cleaner down the air intake just to see if it will fire? Understeer when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower how fast you hit the wall.
Torque how far you take the wall with you.

Hi Billio, Runs fine on the more brutal I believe "Aero Start" so happy cam timing and compressions are all good.

Can you get a hold of a noid light to fit to the injectors to find out if you are getting a pulse from the ecu. Understeer when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower how fast you hit the wall.
Torque how far you take the wall with you.

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Billio unless I'm wrong? I believe that unfortunately noid lights cannot be used for checking high voltage piezo type diesel injectors. Would be a simple way to check if they could be used though.

as I mentioned before have you checked the cam sensor signal with a scope ?
The ecu uses the cam sensor signal as a reference point to start the injection.
You may of replaced the sensor but does it work and when you crank does the signal swith to earth on a scope.
I have seen experienced techs miss the fact that a cam sensor is creating a signal but not switching to zero wich will prevent the start of injectors Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Thanks Oldgeezer, I'm working away again so can't get at it but I'll re-check when I get a chance, there was a signal from the cam sensor on the scope but possibly not the correct form, it was difficult to check on my own when cranking and I'm new to using a scope. I'll do a more thorough check the next time. I'll also recheck the crank sensor signal I'm also thinking it may be a good idea to renew the crank sensor trigger ring behind the pulley.

have you got it started yet?what was the cure,as ive seen your other posts and it looks like its running?

Hi Sid.
No joy yet, I work away a lot so only get very limited time to play with it.
I'm currently waiting on a replacement crank trigger ring coming but apparently it should really be bought along with a new front pulley as there has been an upgrade made. I'm waiting to see if the original pulley can be modified to suit the new trigger ring as I don't want to pay out on a pulley as well as the trigger ring if its only a simple pulley mod that's required? I'm not too confident the trigger ring will fix it but at least it will remove another possibly dodgy component.
I may get a chance to have another look at the car this coming weekend. Spare time is always a problem but luckily I don't depend on having the car on the road. The Dog

Well the saga continues. I received the trigger wheel cost £102 it turned out to look exactly like the cheap trigger wheel I bought on ebay for £17. The £102 trigger wheel is basically a thin pressed steel disc compared with the heavy and thick bossed trigger wheel I removed. Trouble is I don't know if I can substitute the old thick section trigger ring for the thin pressed steel type I realise I'd need to make a spacer boss so that the thin wheel would be nipped securely when tightening the crank pulley. I realise there is a modified pulley to match the thin pressed steel trigger ring but I don't want to pay around another £100 for a pulley when the trigger wheel may not be causing the no injector signal problem. Any ideas or good suggestion appreciated. Thanks, the Dog