Insurance and matches possibly.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Bump

We are still in suspenders over this Dog.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

To was just away to ask the same question earlier this evening. Got side tracked and totally forgot. 28 and got the memory a 68 year old would be proud of. Please tell me use are only joking when use say it gets worse with age.

Right O' time to have another go at the Freelander.
Went to the local Land Rover dealer today to enquire about a crank trigger wheel replacement was quoted �216.60 for the three parts kit. I already have the later type trigger wheel that I bought some time ago but its the later type which is a thin disc type rather than the old thick trigger wheel disc. The superseded trigger wheel comprises of three parts Pulley LLR006672 Trigger Wheel LLR010244 and spacer LLR013188. Apparently no spacers are currently available. I'm thinking that I could make up a spacer on the lathe to use with the thin type trigger wheel that I already have. Would anyone know where I might be able to get my hands on a second hand later type spacer and pulley or would anyone know where I could see a parts catalogue or picture of the later type parts. I have an idea it would be a fairly simple mod to make up the spacer and I doubt if the pulley is much different. Any help here appreciated. I don't want to spend the �216 quid and then find out the trigger wheel was ok in the first place.

I sacrificed the old reluctor ring to make a spacer cut down the outsides and mill it down in the leith or grinder and take 1.6mm off the back of it to allow the size difference.

I think you had a scope.
my recommendation is that you scope the crank and cam sensor signal first
|That's how you diagnose a fault without spending any money on parts , that's what I call guess-nostics

you can google plenty of scope images for crank sensors or grab another vehicle and scope the signal off that one for comparison.
good luck Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Cheers Trav Good to know it can be done with out buying the overpriced and currently and apparently unobtainable LR parts. Rather than use the old reluctor ring which I'm not sure is faulty I'll now make up a spacer on the lathe.
Oldgeezer, Yes I have a cheap scope which did show a square wave signal coming from the crank sensor but I found it difficult to read the screen with any real accuracy when cranking. I couldn't make out the missing wave segment if you know where I'm coming from? Not sure if or how I can record to view later the scope signal as I haven't played with the scope much.
Would you know if there is there a ODB2 reader that confirms the crank and cam sensor signal & timings. My Autel OBDII reader isn't showing fault codes for the sensors or reluctor ring but not sure if it would anyhow.
Thanks Guys.

Come on Dog we are still waiting for the Phoenix to take flight.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hello again folks I'm not dead yet and haven't yet set fire to the Freelander.
At last I've had another go at it after fitting a new crank sensor trigger ring, I put the scope on the crank sensor and can see a good regular signal so no worries there however on checking the cam sensor no signal and when checked with a volt meter very odd voltages coming from the sensor plug wiring. With the plug disconnected from the sensor;
From the grey with violet trace steady 5volts which I guess is ok ,
From the green with brown trace I'm seeing a steady 11 volts?????
And from the Yellow with violet I have 0v which I guess is correct.

Any ideas why I'm seeing 11v on the yellow/violet? Any help would be appreciated. The dog

It's possible that the ECU's input matrix to be designed with pull-up resistors to 12V. This could be the reason for that 11V.
The cam sensor's output could be an open-collector type (99% sure) that will pull-down to ground that 11V when active.
In this way you could easily use both 5V and 12V type sensors.

1. Those colors you've mentioned are for the crankshaft sensor, not for camshaft sensor like you've said.
2. Initially you've said green/brown has 11V and later, on the question, you asked why yellow/violet has 11V.


Anyway, the explanation remains for all sensors/inputs.

Thanks Alex,
Yes I got the colours mixed up right enough when looking at my notes.
So to sum up Brown with blue trace 5V+ is ok and Violet with 11v is also ok? Thanks again The Dog

Very happy to report that I got it going at last. Must have been a faulty crankshaft trigger ring right enough. The cheap and cheerful Hantek 1008c oscilloscope is a handy piece of kit. Thanks everyone for looking in No doubt I'll be back online here as I've now to get the car MOT tested and on the road I wonder what else is waiting to trip me up with it.
Thanks again to everyone who made some input. The Dog

 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

The dog wrote:

Must have been a faulty crankshaft trigger ring right enough.
The cheap and cheerful Hantek 1008c oscilloscope is a handy piece of kit.