Reading through the post I am slightly confused so hopefully someone can help

I have the transmission fault on the dash and my icarsoft lr11 code reader says oil pump pressure performance

Not sure this is pump or sensor fault. How can you test to find out which it is ?

Looking at pictures the sensor appears to be under flat plate with control module, can this be removed
And replaced without losing oil by just undoing two bolts that hold plate

If it is the pump can this be removed without taking out the unit (mines a 2012 car). If not the prop bolts
Don't look like normal bolts what are they?
Also if the drive flange needs to come off what holds it on is there a large nut and then splines so a hub puller?

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Which post?

Would it not be better asking the question in that thread rather than starting another? The forum becomes disjointed and makes life difficult for others to find answers.

If you let me know I can merge it

There are a few haldex posts you could add this to, including the post below this one.
I just thought it would be useful to get a clear concise response to save people trawling through
I don't think all the questions I have asked have ever been answered
Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

No magic fix. Unit needs to come out and be serviced. Filters will be clogged and pump is now working overtime and is going to stop altogether costing more money.

Suggest you take it to Bell Engineering if you do not have the time and or skills to do it yourself. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

If I take the unit out and service it how do I know if the pump is okay or pressure sensor is okay

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

If I take the unit out and service it how do I know if the pump is okay or pressure sensor is okay

If you take out the whole unit to service it and the filters are pristine and the oil is clear then it would seem reasonable to say that the controls and or the pump are on the way out if you are having 4WD issues. Do you know the cars history from day one ? My view would be like most FL2's your Haldex will not have been serviced and will be clogged with dirty oil/scum that blocks the filters. Completely strip (you will need to split the clutches) clean up and refit with new oil and micro filter and drive into the sunset. The quickest and most cost effective way to deal with your Haldex in my opinion is to book your vehicle in a company like Bell Engineering for a Haldex service. You really do need to be using the search search now as its all covered there. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Think I will order a service kit from Bell engineering and see what's its like inside.
Still keen to know if you can test the pump to be sure it works before I put the unit back together

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Problem now fixed .
I brought a service kit from Bell Engineering I thought I would share how it was serviced.

My car is 2012 model so a gen 4 unit

Firstly thanks to bell engineering for the advice they gave me over the phone when I couldn't get the prop shaft off.

To service unit
1. Undo prop shaft bolts (note these require torx sockets) there is not a lot of room as my torx sockets were 3/8 drive
and my ratchet catches on the exhaust. I used a 1/4 drive an 8 mm metric socket once they were loose as this gave
me more room.
Once all six bolts are off (you have to rotate prop shaft tp get to them all) you then have to get prop shaft off haldex
I used a cold chisel between the haldex and the galvanized prop shaft spline cover, there about a 2mm gap that looks rusty. A sharp hit witha hammer loosened it. The prop shaft end can then be taken out of the cup on the Haldex end.
Bell engineer said there are later models with a rubber vibration mount, these are hard to shock off.
Then remove as much fluid as you can through he fill hole, I didn't manage to get too much out so when I undid the
four bolts that hold the Haldex to the diff a fair amount of fluid came out into the dish I had underneath.
The unit can then be removed. Don't forget to disconnect electric plug
On the bench take off the connection to the prop shaft first undo the bolt by holding prop shaft connection in vice and then use a hub puller to take off connection.
You can now take off filter cover and remove plastic sealing cap (I used a small screwdriver to pierce it then leaver out).
Next i took off the motor, its a tight fit. The motor filter was clogged with white goo so undid two torx screwsand took it off and washed out in paraffin. Note the third screw allows the end to come off of the pump but there are 6 sprung metal pegs inside so if you do take this off do it slowly.
Washed out the unit, the main filter was fairly clean, this is a tight fit as it has a rubber washer at the bottom.
I then tested the motor by using two lengths pf wire connected to my battery and then touch the connections on the plug.
The motor ran, it doesn't matter which way you connect the wires as its a DC motor it just runs backwards.
Note Bell engineering said you can listen for the motor while the unit is fitted to the car by placing a screwdriver on the motor and listening but the fuel pump can swamp the sound and its not on all the time.
Once everything was dried I re-assembled and fitted back to car.
Note the large nut for the prop shaft connection on the Haldax needs nut lock glue
I filled the unit ran car for 3 min then filled again.
This service fixed my problem and my fear that the motor was faulty was luckily unfounded. It does mean you can get the
fault logged if the filter is blocked and may not require a new motor.

Hope this helps

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Thanks for the write up

I've editied the title to allow people to find this when searching, given the age of the FL2, higher mileages and more owner/service being done it will be useful.

Excellent write up, thanks very much for that.

So you basically removed, cleaned unit, replaced oil and filter... and did not split the clutch plates out. That fixed the fault. It sounds like that is all that most units would require. A full dissemble might be better, but for the average punter and average unit what you have done sounds good. Do I have that right?

Did you find out if there are any circumstances where a full disassemble is definitely required?

Yes just a clean out. I flushed the unit with paraffin, I had a look at the clutch unit but thought best
Left alone as I couldn't work out how it came apart.
The main issue was the gunk on the motor filter as it has a small input hole so easily blocked.
I guess the system detects the low pressure and cuts the feed to the motor, looking how the
Motor works I don't think the flow of fluid through the pump does any cooling which explains why mine was okay.
I did open the motor up and saw no signs of overheating, maybe motor faults are caused by something else.

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8

Do you have a pit, ramp or was it just done on axle stands ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I usually use axle stands but this time I drove it onto two large pieces of timber around 3 inchs high.
The problem I had was you can't turn prop shaft without moving car so had to roll it forward on the timber
to get to two of the prop shaft bolts.

Roger Freelander 2
Rangerover L322 4.4 TDV8