Hi All,
I have a problem and not sure how to sort it - even after searching & reading through many threads on the forum, your help would be appreciated please:

Returned from a months holiday and neither fob would open car, so tried key blade which was so stiff so tried WD40 but still so still as to snap the key out of the plastic part. Its been pretty cold here so have tried a hair dryer on lock for 15 min's after which its more free and moves approx 30 deg anti-clockwise and 45 clockwise but still does not unlock, this was whilst holding the key blade in a pair of mole grips. Car was double locked before going away and I cannot seethe alarm light so guessing the battery is dead.

I will call TCS (Swiss AA/RAC equivalent) to see if they can help but thought I would try asking on this excellent forum for any useful suggestions?

You are doing the right thing trying to lubricate and warm it. Try some de-icer and re-lubricate and warm more of the door panel not just direct on the lock barrel. Can you get a space heater near (not enough to burn paint) it or electric fan heater and warm the whole door ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

You may wish to consider this in the future:

http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/products/comfortkit/ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks Yorky Bob, TCS man came, we tried further heat to no avail and then he carefully pried open top of door with wedges & pump-up pads and managed to pull the lever and popped the bonnet using along length of stiff wire hooked at the end, so managed to jump start it but now have a battery light on permanently.

Will take it for a longish run to see if it goes out but fear something else may have failed

I left a Citroen Berlingo for a month in Winter and the alternator blew trying to start it. Should have charged it up first, that was my mistake but I could get in.

Try a long slow charge with battery off car or disconnected. Some alternators show warnings when a wire rubs so ensure your garage is aware of that reported fault if a charge fails as you don't want a bill for an alternator when all it may need is a wire splice. Do a search to find that culprit. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Finally had some time today and found that like several other people on the forum the problem was the single blue LINbus wire to the alternator was damaged were it left the larger loom. It was near identical to the description given by Refurb Pete in his post - Cheers to him and others who posted about this problem. Repaired it + 4 layers of heat-shrink plus insulation tape then re-routed it to be clear of heat and rubbing sources, charging light now stays off and running fine after a 40km test trip fingers crossed it stays that way,

Just a follow up on this, 3 weeks later and many more KM's covered and the fix is still good and no more dash light - last week it had the expertise/MFK (Swiss MOT equivalent) and passed without a problem - examiner said "La voiture est très bonne, tip-top état" excellent result!

Thanks to this great forum its saved me from many a potentially pricey garage visits, CHEERS!

EDITED. Didn't read it through at first..

...  [ Freelander 2 TD4e MY10 Sport manual. SVR badge engineered ] SOLD
& D3 MY06 HSE , many ,many extra's...
& 2011 MiTo 1.4T 135hp Centenario Blue Monte Carlo