It is pretty strange as I drove to work this morning and the clutch didn't slip once, on the way home it would slip every time under slight acceleration around peak torque. I do seem to remember this happening before my clutch was changed the first time, although it did go on for about 6 months before the stealers would change it after numerous visits.

Still no better so think I am going to have to bite the bullet. Got a quote from the stealers £850 just for clutch replacement, no DMF or slave cylinder

Hi during a trip to High Wycombe yesterday suffered the seemingly typical clutch slip at 60 to 80 mph. Full throttle slight uphill. Returned home keeping a light foot on the throttle without further problems. Turned to the all knowing forum feering a costly trip to my local and trusted garage. I came across a thread on this subject (I can not find now) which suggested, as landiroamer suggested above, that the self adjuster could be seized. Suggestion was, with engine turned off, to fully depress clutch then release quickly without just slipping foot off pedal 10 or more times. I tried this today. Actually repeated 20 times. First thing I noticed was the biting point was slightly lower. Road tested foot to floor 60 to 80mph slight uphill with no slip. Repeated a few times and could not get clutch to slip. Might not work in all cases but worth a try.

96,000 on the clock. Not sure how old clutch is but I have owned for last 25,000. No record in fairly good history of clutch change before.

Update on this: Clutch started to slip again two weeks later. Had replaced at local and trusted indy. £800.00 including DMF, bearing and a crank seal.

Hope this one lasts for 96,000 miles.

JGH99. 2007 GS.
Completely standard.
GG AT tyres.

Just had clutch replaced at 136000 miles. Don't know if it had previously had one or whether it was the original but I have done 57000 since I have had it.
Had it done by a local car repair garage with a really good no rip-off reputation. Dropped it off at 8am, got a call at 3 to say it was done. Total cost £799.20. All is good
Also included dmf and slave cylinder.

So around £100 per hour labour then ? Is that a reasonable rate these days ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Try again Yorky Bob.
£799.20 in total, including parts!

Yep I just priced them on the net and thats not trade price.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

All I know is I got an invoice for £799.20 and that was for fitting a new clutch, dmf and slave cylinder and it was a Borg and Beck clutch because they showed it to me when I dropped the car off.

Got to say if it was all Borg and Beck kit with a top end DMF that does throw up the price compared to a cheapy clutch kit. I reckon 5 hours should see a young fit professional person in a modern workshop complete a job like this but maybe we have some on here who would disagree. When I worked on Rovers years ago we usually smashed factory times as we were on a good bonus.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

7.5 hours at £44/hr and the rest was parts and vat.

I was really pleased with the invoice amount, was expecting closer to £1100 after reading posts on here

You might find this interesting from when I had a clutch done a couple of years ago. It was slipping intermittently and wasn't well worn but if you look at the images at the end of the thread it looked as it it was sticking on the guide pins

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic17671.html 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I am getting a "shudder"when accelerating briskly from 1800 to 2000 rpm,seems to be coming from under the seating area through the floor,then it clears.when I pull away normally (no hard loading)it does not happen.any thoughts out there?the rear diff was replaced by landrover in august/16,so would like to rule that one out.
cheers
sandy

This sounds like a Haldex issue. The unit is supposed to put the car in 4WD as you pull away initially and then come on as required by the traction control system to get extra traction in the event of wheel slip. If you pull away with the steering wheel turned then you can sometimes get a judder as there is no centre diff. We had this on one of our FL2s before we sold it. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

hi,thanks for the info,not sure about the haldex,this only seems to happen when driving in a straight line,1800-200 rpm,but only when accelerating hard,not when going gently/normal.when cruising 60-70 mph, revs 1800/2000 its fine.
cheers
sandy

addition to above,we have just had a run down from kent to bideford, north devon to visit family, and check our caravan.had a good run,noticed the slipping/loss of momentum and vibration on a couple of long fast hills on the a361,cruising at 60/65 in top,when starting to accelerate a bit it seemed reluctant but when I eased of a fraction it slowly picked up.looks like I will have to visit the dealer(non lr)where I bought it last December and find out if the RAC gold warranty he put on it is any good going back home on Monday but will do what others have advised and give the clutch pedal some pumps to se if there is any difference.apart from the above the car drives really well under normal conditions.
cheers
sandy