Just back from Europe and noticed the clutch was slipping when accelerating from 60 to 80MPH in 6th gear , full throttle.

The car has done 70000 miles so suspect clutch is probably due a replacement but before doing so is there anything else I need to check first?

If it needs replacing and I buy a clutch kit should I also get a Dual Mass Flywheel?

Can anyone also recommend which kit to buy?

It sounds very much like a Dual Mass Flywheel problem anyway; the symptoms are typical.
So, you'll need a clutch kit, Dual Mass Flywheel and while the gearbox is off, replace the Concentric Slave Cylinder.
You can get the O/E parts from our site sponsor Advanced Factors. Although their parts don't show L/R part numbers, they are the same.
Best of luck!! Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Unless it starts to be a problem I would suggest not to act too quickly. I had the same on my 2007 at around the same mileage but it carried on to 160k miles without getting noticeably worse - I developed the habit of changing down to 5th in that situation. Just don't push too hard once it starts to slip to avoid overheating it.
The clutch does appear to be only just up to the job.

Be afraid, be very afraid...

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic21487.html

Get it done now before you get stuck!!!

Prices vary...

english yeoman wrote:
Total Bill £795
Flywheel, Clutch, both slave and master cylinder, transmission box and labour. Obviously he requested cash which I'll sort for him - get her back later today - can't wait!!!


Sounds a good deal to me. I had a clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder replaced last year by a good indie and the bill came to £690. They said that the DMF was OK (saved me about £400). This included 6 hours work. I wonder if your cash in hand job saved the vat?

Many instances of clutch slip on the FL2 are nothing to do with the major components themselves, but are something like the automatic adjustment mechanism or similar. I intermittently get slip in the higher gears, and have done for some time, but most of the time it's fine. A couple of weeks ago I thought it had properly gone - I was getting lots of slip pulling away from a junction in third, then failed to overtake a car doing 50 up a hill because I couldn't get enough power down in fourth before the slip began! However, having parked up and pumped the clutch a good few times with the engine off all was well again - no slip. So in my case at least it's not the clutch itself or the DMF or the slave cylinder - it's something much more trivial. And something which, for the moment at least, I can live with.

Yes, maybe. But the o/p stated that it only happens 60-80mph full throttle in sixth gear. That is peak torque area and clutch slip like this is characteristic of a weakening dmf. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Sometimes, but not always as that's where my intermittent slip usually manifests itself, not normally in the lower gears. It's as though the clutch isn't getting the full pressure of the spring, or something like that, so under extreme load it starts to slip.

A worn DMF will cause noise at idle and through the gear train plus general harshness . It will not cause the clutch to slip. This can only be caused by a worn driven plate, weak cover plate, problem with clutch auto adjuster, oil on driven plate or slave cylinder not releasing properly.

Most recommendations are that if you need to replace the clutch or the DMF then your best to do both at the same time, along with the slave cylinder and all stretch bolts.
LR price around £1300 all in fitted.

ive just had mine all replaced due to excesaive vibrstions (failed DMF) at an indy for £685 all in fitted.

My clutch failed due to a leaking crank shaft oil seal. It made the journey home from Belgium with the caravan very interesting!!!

I have a '10 plate GS with only 44k miles, had my first clutch replaced under warranty at about 26k miles, but they wouldn't replace the DMF at the same time despite all the issues others have had. Now my clutch has started to slip again although is very intermittent at the moment. Hopefully it is just the auto adjuster sticking. Will see how it goes.

RogB - I see you had your clutch replaced by a indy recently, I'm in the mansfield area too so would be interested who you used.

It is most likely the auto adjuster stuck or sticking, if it stays stuck it will eventually accelerate the wear, if youre lucky it will unstick and rectify itself until it needs to adjust again.

where is the auto adjuster?

On the pressure plate inside the clutch, you can only get to it by taking the gearbox off, thats the problem.