When you take them off, look to see which way up they are! From memory the top and bottom are not the same. On later models one of the front strips (n/s? again from memory) has an extra rubber moulding on it. I think it's to keep water out of the air intake. Your replacement set may or may not have this. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Good tip thank you.  FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

Yes, it's nearside that has the extra moulding (I just checked). My 07MY did not have this. My 14MY does, although when I ordered a replacement for the 14MY I was sent the old style. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Thanks for that guys

ive seen many at the dealers with them missing altogether, one wonders if they stay like that for life then as unless you know it supposed to have them one wouldnt know anything was wrong with it?
Real rubbish quality, they start to fail within 2 years, the interior metal reinforcing needs to be stainless and one would have thought it would have been considering its position on the car.

How best to fit new wheel arch rubbers

How best to fit??? Simple answer is the same as the ones that came off of course!

For more detail, buy a replacement set from Dan@Duckworths (Forum Sponsor). Before fitting them, treat the cut ends with some anti rust protection (it is the steel spring insert that corrodes) Clean up the wheel arch edges and apply rust inhibitor to the hidden edges. (Be careful there may be some sharp edges) Put the kettle on for a coffee. Then fit the new items in place. Make the coffee now the kettle has boiled and enjoy. Stand back and admire your work!

Do a "Search" on the forum under "wheel arch trims" or similar for loads of threads packed with information.

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

I just replaced mine last week, the original ones were missing when I got the car, I suspect they had swelled up like they normally do, (same as on the Disco3,) and simply been binned.

I got a quote from Dan for a replacement set but in the meantime I ordered 5 metres of the same stuff from an eBay seller and cut it into 4 lengths, before fitting it I squirted a fair amount of Dinitrol into the open ends of the cavity in the rubber channel and left it for a few minutes before pushing it on to the exposed edge of the metal.

It's a bit messy while fitting but cleans up easy enough, I think it will go a long way toward preventing further corrosion.

1st job I did on mine, doddle, 10 minute job.
As said, give the arches a good clean 1st to get rid of any crud. Martyn

2010 Sport LE Auto

Many thanks for the advice, all sounds straightforward so I will be cleaning the wheel arches and installing tomorrow.
I have painted the ends of the rubbers with Hammerite to cover the metal and will be using dinatrol as suggested.
Thanks again for your replies always best to ask first!

AndyP wrote:

I used this [url] http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121679869454?_tr...3AIT[/url] which is slightly bigger than that posted by ChickenGeorge .
4 metres is more than enough. 12 quid or thereabouts inc postage.

Cheers. I've only been a LR owner for 4 days now and just noticed one of these was a bit ragged and not gripping the metal. So I pulled it gently and it came away with a lot of dry mud! Looked around the other wheel arches to find 50% were missing (6 year old car). I've just ordered 5 metres off eBay for £15. Very thankful for this forum Looks like owning a Landy will keep me busy. FL2 2010 (Facelift) TD4 XS
Zermatt Silver

Hello from a newbie.

I recently purchased a FL2 HSE and I love it. 57 plate with 83k on the clock, almost immaculate, oatmeal leather interior with all the bells and whistles you could wish for, so whoever owned this before me looked after it really well.

Unfortunately there are a couple of rust issues on the vehicle, and not being that well up in FL's I'm looking for a few pointers.

Firstly there are a couple of small bubbles in the paint on the tailgate at the corners of the plastic moulding/handle. Is this a common place for this type of thing?

The second area is the rear wheel arches beneath the back doors, both sides have rust along the front edges of the arches, with some rather heath robinson looking rubber trim that just appears to be there doing "not a lot" and leaving the inner edges being exposed to whatever gets thrown at them. Should the strips extend to the edge of the wheel arch thus protecting or is this another standard problem? Has anybody any recent experience of this and how much to have the undersides of the arches prepped and painted?

They're both standard problems if you search for tailgate rust and wheel arch rust you'll find a heap of posts.
The tailgate handle rubs the paint and wears it and water and muck collects in the rubber wheel arch trims and rusts the metal there.

The hidden area under the u section trim fitted to the wheel arches seems to be a favorite spot for corrosion to take hold & is a real pain. I have some on mine again now having cleaned, treated, painted & waxoyled them a couple of years back & fitted new trims. I am now wondering if it would be better to leave the trims off so these areas can be kept cleaner & dry off better. I see plenty of other vehicles have no such protection & don't seem to suffer the rust we get.
Has anyone any thoughts on this? I know the temptation is to assume LR knows best, but if you keep doing the same things in the same way etc...

I don't think I would replace mine again they don't seem to do much apart from warp and hang off.

Last edited by SYFL2 on 11th Sep 2016 9:57 am. Edited 1 time in total