ewrfvadffe wrote:

Vacuum in the tank, which slowly builds up because of a broken / jammed vent valve while driving.
As a result, for example, air can intrude at the connectors into the fuel supply line ... In much air sucked it can also get into the high-pressure part and cause further loss of power or jerking

pcheaven wrote:

My hesitation was fixed with a SW update - Yes, Alex, according to the Update this should not work, but it did, my car went to the dealers 3 times, and this immediately fixed it, in my case.

dorsetfreelander wrote:

Speaking as a physicist this makes no sense. Air can only get in the fuel system if the fuel level is extremely low or you get some sort of frothing and why would you get that unless the pressure was so low that the diesel boiled at room temp? Just had a look on the web and the vapour pressure at room temp of diesel is less than 0.5psi and this matches up with the fact that diesel doesn't evaporate very quickly if left out in the open. At that vacuum level you would probably collapse the tank and you would have trouble getting the cap off anyway.

All pressure is positive except in an absolute vacuum where it is zero. I agree that the vacuum in the tank will make the pump work harder but I was talking about the possibility of fuel vaporising (ie boiling) and vapor bubbles going down the fuel line. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

pcheaven wrote:

↑↑↑↑↑↑↑

What he said.

My hesitation was fixed with a SW update - Yes, Alex, according to the Update this should not work, but it did, my car went to the dealers 3 times, and this immediately fixed it, in my case.
It may be worth noting I have a "pre release" MY 13 car on a VX12 plate.

Around town, I really hate the auto box on all the FL2's I have driven, though they are a much better drive in town when set to S

Off road, Auto rules - given no low range

alex_pescaru wrote:

pcheaven wrote:

My hesitation was fixed with a SW update - Yes, Alex, according to the Update this should not work, but it did, my car went to the dealers 3 times, and this immediately fixed it, in my case.

Do you have at hand a LR compatible tester?
Could you please post here the HW/SW serial numbers of the ECU and its firmware (program & data)?
They look something like this (below my info, for a MY2009 car). Relevant are the right information, after ":".

Reading module info: [7E0] Engine
ECU VIN [F190]: SALFA.......
ECU S/N [F18C]: 33506301774
ECU ASY1 [F111]: 6G91-12A650-AE
ECU ASY3 [F113]: 6G91-12A650-AE
ECU HWN [F191]: 6G91-12B684-EC
ECU BOOT [F180]: 6G91-14C558-AD
ECU SWN1 [F188]: 6G91-14C204-BE
ECU SWN2 [F120]: 6G91-14C569-AA
ECU DAT1 [F124]: 9G92-12K532-VWA

Sorry, I don't have the tools to gather this data  

pcheaven
Don't you know someone near you with proper tools?
Maybe even the ones that flashed your unit?
If indeed solved your problem, then it will be a big help for the community to know what to program/flash inside ECU in order to help solving this problem...
BTW, it was an official file/firmware, or a custom one?

dorsetfreelander
Absolute pressures, relative pressures,.... details, semantics, ... you've got the idea at hand: too much vacuum in tank means bad fuel feed.

official, done by local LR dealer - Harwoods 

Do freelanders before lift in 2011 have egr ?

Hi,

news from my daily list.
At the morning i had 2-3 judders, but not really hard. there was a little vacuum in tank.
This afternoon i opened the cap before i drove. No judder, very soft gear shifts and no turbo noise.

Click image to enlarge

I've requested the latest software from the guys at GAP and hoping to get that soon to flash engine ECU on my MY11 that has been displaying issues. Will update on progress 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Are the flashing functions available for FL2 on GAP products yet?

Whether it helps or not, I can get some data off my 2010 for you to compare

alex_pescaru wrote:

Are the flashing functions available for FL2 on GAP products yet?

If it helps I had LR Assist out yesterday on an unrelated fault on my 2011 model and I mentioned that I used to have the hesitation issue and he said that there was a software fix for it so he checked my car and found it was up to date. The point is that he was prepared to do the upgrade there and then if necessary. So if you have LR Assist you could always try calling them out and get it done on your drive. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE