Hi,

I went to start the car today (2009) and it turned over and felt like it was about to start and then nothing. I took it on a trip yesterday and everything was fine. Tank is a 1/3 full and I've got no warning messages on the dash.

So I was wondering before I start the costly process of taking it to a garage would it be worth buying a diagnostic scan tool like the Discoball® KW808 Diagnostic Scan Tool Vehicles Car Fault Code Reader?

Many thanks

If you said were you was located it might mean someone been able to help with their scan tool  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

I'm in East Essex

hello
if it is starter engine kit (solenoeid ...) you will not have default message
just sound "click click" when start engine ....

If it is clicking under the bonnet when you try to start it give the starter motor a few GENTLE taps with a chunk of wood and it should vibrate the solenoid enough to get you going, I kept a small hammer in the car until I could be bothered to change the starter but it marked the caseing and when I took it in to change it for a service repaired one I got moaned at as they thought I might of cracked the caseing when I tapped it.

I can recommend DS Automotive in Leigh on Sea for good service and sensible prices. Charge £30 for a diagnostic. 12MY 61plate FL2 TD4 auto GS Orkney Grey Roof spoiler full size spare

Gone 07 Dodge Caliber 1.8 black
51 Nissan Primera
K Isuzu Trooper 3.1 SWB Citation

My sympathies. I've only had mine three days and already have intermittent start issues. I've just plugged in an OBD reader and saw no faults. Although I suspect a system issue, it does look a faulty solenoid or a worn/loose brush in the starter - possibly a bad joint on the commutator. It only has to rotate a tiny amount to spin onto the next 'finger'. It's like Russian roulette, it can work for days until it parks on a bad one. A hammer tap test usually diagnoses this fault. If you can get the starter motor off then any auto-electrician should be able to bench test it before somebody just tries to flog you a new one and then refuses to admit their diagnosis was completely wrong when the fault turns out to be something else.

There seems to be an ongoing issue with people having perfectly good batteries replaced without having them load-tested. This should only take a few minutes and most places will do it free. If checking with a meter, don't forget that most 12 Volt vehicle batteries should have a nominal off-load fully charged voltage of around 13.8 Volts. I also find that modern batteries rarely ever recover from being completely flattened.

Assuming your battery is sound, try turning the headlights on before you press start. If the lights go very dim it usually means the solenoid is connecting and the starter is drawing a heavy current but is still not turning. If you are not seeing any dip in the lights then the power may not be getting to or past the solenoid. Stick a test lamp or meter on the terminal to confirm the connection is sound.

I think somebody mentioned a faulty clutch switch but I assume you would see a warning if the system thought that the clutch was not depressed on starting. It's all a bit depressing... good luck.

First serious issue with my MY11 SD4 today. Put in fob, accessories power up but no dashboard lighting and no start at all. Typical, I'm remote camping in snowy mountains, middle of winter and no car. Trying everything and anything, so any tips would help????
It's going to be really expensive to get assistance up here - ouch!

Is battery well charged, the cold won't be helping.
Try a disconnect and reset everything perhaps?

In the left hand footwell (Near Side) under the carpet is a connector block, it has been known to partially separate showing the same symptoms.
Especially if your passenger has been assisting with the braking.
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic22521.html? p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Thanks for the feedback.
I have spent hours looking at all of the potential issues, even phoned mechanic who gave me a few tips (to no avail). LR Assist want to tow to nearest approved specialist so mega bucks. I haven't had any passengers so can't see issues, but as per Alex's comments on one thread - I'll pull all of the connectors apart and re-connect tomorrow when daylight and warmer temperatures are more favourable.
It beats me how a perfectly good vehicle goes completely useless for no apparent reason.
So far I have reset the battery, recharged the battery, checked every fuse across 3 different fuse box holders, checked lights (was told old fashioned bulbs in brake lights were a thing - no brake on (as sensed by computer), then no start) etc.
I did find a wire dangling from the drivers footrest area near the upper part of the brake pedal. It has a round plastic connector on it, but I cannot see anything it might connect to. There is a small black plastic panel stapled on to another plastic panel which appears to house this connector - will look for a midget who might be able to see further up under the dash for another wire but surely . . . . . this couldn't totally incapacitate a vehicle???
No answer from local Auto Electrician this afternoon, so not looking good for any service call over the weekend now.
All accessories working, no dash and no engine start (so not starter motor or solenoid I assume).
Any ideas greatly appreciated? Due to snow any time now!

Guessing here but that connector either feeds or takes the power to or from the fuse box behind the Glove Box to the Instrument panel. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Yep, I'm thinking I might have to remove the drivers seat so I can get access up under the dash. I'm not small, so rather awkward!
One weird and annoying feature is that despite the vehicle being unlocked when the battery was connected, the rear hatch door locks once closed. All other doors remain unlocked. Inconvenient because this is where I want to store things whilst pulling the vehicle apart in howling winds, rain, sleet and snow.

I'm not a midget, but you don't need to get under the dash to see the connector, it is under the carpet then up the side of the vehicle by your left foot, the Glove box drops down completely by pressing the two hinge runners. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

If you don't have footwell lights that loose wire is probably the supply for the one in that footwell. These spare wires are often found in less well specified cars as it's much more cost effective and efficient to just have one wiring loom with all the connectors/feeds on an assembly line.
Good luck with finding your fault.