Hi all, and thanks for your patience with me. I posted previously but thought I'd recap the whole problem with more detail to see if anything was missed or if I misunderstood something.

I bought a 2010 LR2 two weeks ago with 94,000kms. I suspect the previous owner may have been involved in a minor collision because my front right CV axle popped-out (broken cage) after some pretty light off-roading (the same day I bought it). Up 'till not I've been assuming it was pure coincidence that I've had occasional "no crank" ever since.

I bought a new battery, got it charged up - no change.

I'm not equipped or confident enough to perform all the other tests/checks suggested of this forum, so I brought the vehicle to the mechanic who fixed my cv-axle. Said mechanic wants to start by reprogramming the key fobs, which makes me scratch my head. All the info I've been given on this forum previously make it seem essentially impossible that my problem is related to the "low voltage" part of the start procedure (which, unless I'm mistaken, includes all things "key fob"). That said, the mechanic also said something about "crash mode" that I didn't quite understand (he speaks french, and my french is rough when it comes to mechanical jargon). When I went to give the mechanic my second key just now, I thought I'd try starting the vehicle. It's been sitting around at the mechanics for a few days but started up beautifully.

Sooo - would you recommend I let the mechanic do his thing, or redirect him to the "high voltage" parts of the starting procedure (Starter relay Fuse, Starter relay, Starter Solenoid or Fusable link near battery). I'm assuming the starter itself if fine (mechanic said it looked new), and the battery is brand new and fully charged.

Also, here's my fuse box (see attached). Something weird going on here?


Sincere thanks,
Marc

Story so far ------ https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic40498.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

To my mind, the fact that it only happens when really cold, knocks all of your “mechanics” theories on the head, but that also could be a red herring/coincidence.
Take it to someone who knows how to do proper diagnostics.
Could the cv joint coming apart have damaged some wiring?
There are so many factors involved here, & not being able to do many of these suggestions yourself, doesn’t help unfortunately.
I’d be interested in what that non factory wiring in the fuse box is for. Is it taken from the “hot” side of the fuse, or the switched side? (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Regarding mechanical theories, I wonder if there are any moving bits that could have gotten submerged during my off-roading, and are freezing and preventing cranking. Doesn't make much sense but I wonder..

The cv-joint broke at low speeds fortunately, so I doubt it damage anything else.

As for the the fuse wiring, I'm really not sure...it seems to be connected to the let side of the fuse.

what does the red wire do? I assume it was something additional the previous owner added.

I would first check starter motor connections and engine earth/s and make sure they are pristine, as the starter motor is seriously impeded by a dirty high resistance connection.

A simple continuity check will not be adequate to indicate a poor connection.


I spend ages trying to find the source of intermittent cranking on my series 3 - solved with some emery paper on the starter connections. Jules

I haven't read all of the replies on the other thread but has anyone suggested the main positive and negative cables from the battery to the starter motor. Either or both could be damaged or corroded giving enough power until the temperature drops. As it is the factory original cables are just enough. No harm done in upgrading to a slightly higher gauge/amperage. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

I like chips --- has a good video link on Fusebox Locations in this thread --
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39839.ht...p;start=15

I cant quite see from the from the picture, but the red wires look worrying like a repair.
Do they join the outgoing cable or do they connect to a pin in the connector below? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks for the link.

The red wire goes from fuse F44 (AFS (Hs lamp motors)) and leaves the fuse box.

gasman wrote:

I haven't read all of the replies on the other thread but has anyone suggested the main positive and negative cables from the battery to the starter motor. Either or both could be damaged or corroded giving enough power until the temperature drops. As it is the factory original cables are just enough. No harm done in upgrading to a slightly higher gauge/amperage.

Can you trace that after market wiring

The vehicle's with the mechanic now.

Please let us know what transpires Jules

So the mechanic's technician should be looking at the car today..I'll keep you all in the loop.

Apparently the vehicle is throwing some kind of "crash mode" codes, and this is why he wants to reprogram keys (it'll clear all the code - there's apparently 60 or so of them).

Right, so the mechanic now thinks the issue is related to the fusebox, but he'll continue investigating tomorrow.

My theory is that water is freezing somewhere where it shouldn't..

PS the mechanic found an oil leak and and says the A/C pump is about to fail.. Yikes

Just a o-ring and ac gasses May leak out.
AC oil is yellowish / green and easy noticable. Do ac pressure test, so find If there is leak it Will tell


And what comes to crash modes, they won't affect starting, i do have crash input which i cant clear whitout better computer But no affect to starting. I had allso crash data Also on airbag control module, ( locked ) and still it did start