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![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Brake Hose Removal |
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Following on from my calliper disaster, I am in the process of replacing my rear calliper, discs, pads etc. The calliper in question is so rusted and seized I ordered a new brake hose as well to replace that.
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This fills me with the sort of feeling that will end with my wife saying "I told you to take it to a garage". FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
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I Like Chips Member Since: 25 Jun 2017 Location: Ascott Under Wychwood Posts: 1513 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ha you know these cars fight you. What should take a half an hour or less can move into the next day. It once took me over three hours to put a rear handbrake clip back on.
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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BossBob Member Since: 30 Sep 2010 Location: Bristol Posts: 1330 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Shall not ignore - I need all the tips to help me learn. I will find better penetrating fluid. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
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Badger51 Member Since: 01 Mar 2014 Location: Coffs Harbour Posts: 946 ![]() ![]() |
I will ![]() https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil-flexible-straw/ (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal. 171037Km as of 09/05/22 Superchips Bluefin Flash Nanocom Evo II (also sold) |
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Bobupndown Member Since: 26 Dec 2014 Location: Upside down behind the TV! Posts: 2737 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you have a blow lamp melt the plastic covering the brake pipe and scrape it away from around the fitting, apply heat to the joint itself and spray a decent release oil on it while it's hot. Attempt to loosen the joint by carefully turning it backwards and forwards alternately. Use a proper brake pipe spanner, not an ordinary open ended one to give you maximum grip on the fitting with less chance of rounding it off.
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IanMetro Member Since: 11 Sep 2017 Location: Somerset BS21 Posts: 3048 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I first came across it in the 1960s when as this 'miracle liquid' (I think made from fish oil?) was issued to spray into aircraft plug and sockets to disperse any moisture, and protect against any further ingress. In the 1970s it became a problem to me when our 'Maintenance Teams' used it as a cleaning fluid all the and sprayed all the dirt and crud further into the moving parts, or used it instead of oil to lubricate parts. Beware the 'basic' WD40 is not a lubricant, so if used to free up parts they need to be cleaned and lubricated if necessary. On the other hand, it does do a great job of making the plastic bits of my conservatory look like new. WD40 It took them 40 attempts to get their water displacing formula to work, but on the 40th attempt, they got it right in a big way. WD-40 Multi Use Product was born. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That’s the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product. https://www.wd40company.com/our-company/ou...20formula. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011) FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015) Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History (Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?) |
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IanMetro Member Since: 11 Sep 2017 Location: Somerset BS21 Posts: 3048 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I did a bit of helicopter renovation at the museum when I retired, and I found that a good way of removing screws, bolts and pipe fittings was to use Penetrating Oil on item, leave for a couple of days at least, then carefully try to TIGHTEN before undoing, as this quite often prevents rounding of the hexagon faces of the bolt/nut. I was careful not to try too hard on the first attempt, but would after cleaning the the joint up a bit, repeat the penetrating oil, wait, tighten, undo procedure. This method also works well on slotted screws. It was important to try to preserve items as you cant buy spares for 50yr+ helicopters. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011) FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015) Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History (Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?) |
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Mel Member Since: 29 Feb 2024 Location: West Mids Posts: 65 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Best penetrating oil is 50% ATF and 50% Acetone shake well before use. |
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks all. I’ll get some better fluid and heat. Will also try removing the coating on the pipe as suggested.
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jules Member Since: 13 Dec 2007 Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire Posts: 4817 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
@Chuck...
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Chuckalicious Member Since: 23 May 2014 Location: Midlothian Posts: 1785 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Jules, that’s super helpful.
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