Following on from my calliper disaster, I am in the process of replacing my rear calliper, discs, pads etc. The calliper in question is so rusted and seized I ordered a new brake hose as well to replace that.

I have gone to remove the old one and cannot see how to do it. Videos I have watched have bolts that you can unscrew whereas mine has one bolt that seems to want to turn the metal line and everything else is round suggesting it can’t unscrew.

Photo to show what I mean. That’s a mixture of rust and WD40 - not brake fluid 👍


 FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

This happened with mine, the crud between the pipe and break bolt sets hard. I cut the pipe undone the connection and fitted a new piece of pipe with the bolt. I also remember the existing pipe has a coating that is a sod to remove prior to putting the new piece on. I had to very very gently scrape the coating off with a stanley knife

Last edited by I Like Chips on 13th Jun 2024 7:11 am. Edited 1 time in total

This fills me with the sort of feeling that will end with my wife saying "I told you to take it to a garage". FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

Ha you know these cars fight you. What should take a half an hour or less can move into the next day. It once took me over three hours to put a rear handbrake clip back on.

Once I discovered the knack it can now do one in ten seconds

Think of the sense of achievement when you have finished and the saving in not paying to have it done

Yeah I’m hoping there will be some satisfaction at the end.

I’m trying to learn, as I’d like to be able to do these sorts of things myself both for cost and easier ongoing maintenance and upkeep.

But then I look at that joint and think am I going to create another repair job trying to do this bit?

From searching online last night, the general advice seems to be heat, WD40, time, gentle taps and patience. Also remove the hose from the calliper at the banjo bolt to allow the hose to be unscrewed from below the bolt.

Wish me luck. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!

Shall not ignore - I need all the tips to help me learn. I will find better penetrating fluid. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

BossBob wrote:

When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!

I will

https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil-flexible-straw/ (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

If you have a blow lamp melt the plastic covering the brake pipe and scrape it away from around the fitting, apply heat to the joint itself and spray a decent release oil on it while it's hot. Attempt to loosen the joint by carefully turning it backwards and forwards alternately. Use a proper brake pipe spanner, not an ordinary open ended one to give you maximum grip on the fitting with less chance of rounding it off.
If that doesn't succeed then it's cutting and replacing a part of brake pipe. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

BossBob wrote:

When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!

Bobupndown wrote:

If you have a blow lamp melt the plastic covering the brake pipe and scrape it away from around the fitting, apply heat to the joint itself and spray a decent release oil on it while it's hot. Attempt to loosen the joint by carefully turning it backwards and forwards alternately. Use a proper brake pipe spanner, not an ordinary open ended one to give you maximum grip on the fitting with less chance of rounding it off.
If that doesn't succeed then it's cutting and replacing a part of brake pipe.

Best penetrating oil is 50% ATF and 50% Acetone shake well before use.

Thanks all. I’ll get some better fluid and heat. Will also try removing the coating on the pipe as suggested.

Will keep you posted. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎

@Chuck...

Its a few years since I did mine.

The clip slides off (yellow) and releases the connector from the support.

The flexible hose has a swaged end (green) which is not removed from the flexible hose.

The nut (red) unscrews from the flexible hose end and should rotate around the brake pipe which had a standard flared end.

BUT the nut is often fused to the brake pipe due to corrosion and turning the nut twists and buckles the brake pipe. I had to replace two of my brake pipes when I replaced all my four flexible hoses.




I bought genuine replacement brake pipes as they came with all the right bends and attachments and werent too expensive.

Also do not let all the brake fluid run out so that air gets into the ABS unit. I put a rubber tube over the broken brake pipe and clamped it shut. Otherwise you have to bleed the ABS unit and you need to computer/software to do that to operate the internal valves.
Its all in the JLR bible. Jules

Thanks Jules, that’s super helpful.

If the pipe needed cut, what’s the process of getting it all back together? Is that a garage job? FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎