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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 
Brake Hose Removal

Following on from my calliper disaster, I am in the process of replacing my rear calliper, discs, pads etc. The calliper in question is so rusted and seized I ordered a new brake hose as well to replace that.

I have gone to remove the old one and cannot see how to do it. Videos I have watched have bolts that you can unscrew whereas mine has one bolt that seems to want to turn the metal line and everything else is round suggesting it can’t unscrew.

Photo to show what I mean. That’s a mixture of rust and WD40 - not brake fluid 👍


 FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442524 12th Jun 2024 7:47 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1529

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

This happened with mine, the crud between the pipe and break bolt sets hard. I cut the pipe undone the connection and fitted a new piece of pipe with the bolt. I also remember the existing pipe has a coating that is a sod to remove prior to putting the new piece on. I had to very very gently scrape the coating off with a stanley knife

Last edited by I Like Chips on 13th Jun 2024 6:11 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #442525 12th Jun 2024 8:53 pm
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 

This fills me with the sort of feeling that will end with my wife saying "I told you to take it to a garage". FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442526 12th Jun 2024 8:55 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1529

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Ha you know these cars fight you. What should take a half an hour or less can move into the next day. It once took me over three hours to put a rear handbrake clip back on.

Once I discovered the knack it can now do one in ten seconds

Think of the sense of achievement when you have finished and the saving in not paying to have it done

Post #442528 13th Jun 2024 6:16 am
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 

Rolling with laughter Yeah I’m hoping there will be some satisfaction at the end.

I’m trying to learn, as I’d like to be able to do these sorts of things myself both for cost and easier ongoing maintenance and upkeep.

But then I look at that joint and think am I going to create another repair job trying to do this bit?

From searching online last night, the general advice seems to be heat, WD40, time, gentle taps and patience. Also remove the hose from the calliper at the banjo bolt to allow the hose to be unscrewed from below the bolt.

Wish me luck. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442529 13th Jun 2024 6:25 am
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BossBob



Member Since: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1367

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!

Post #442530 13th Jun 2024 7:19 am
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 

Shall not ignore - I need all the tips to help me learn. I will find better penetrating fluid. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442531 13th Jun 2024 7:35 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 959

Australia 

BossBob wrote:
When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!


I will Wink

https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil-flexible-straw/ (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #442532 13th Jun 2024 7:52 am
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2790

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

If you have a blow lamp melt the plastic covering the brake pipe and scrape it away from around the fitting, apply heat to the joint itself and spray a decent release oil on it while it's hot. Attempt to loosen the joint by carefully turning it backwards and forwards alternately. Use a proper brake pipe spanner, not an ordinary open ended one to give you maximum grip on the fitting with less chance of rounding it off.
If that doesn't succeed then it's cutting and replacing a part of brake pipe. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #442533 13th Jun 2024 8:24 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3107

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

BossBob wrote:
When I see people saying they are using WD40 I can’t help but think of the Water Dispersant that was originally marketed as a general purpose fluid that didn’t do anything really well especially freeing off badly corroded fittings. I would always go for Plus Gas in that situation, which was formulated to be a penetrating fluid and nothing else.
If WD40 have brought out a specific penetrating fluid and you’re using that then just ignore the ravings of an old diy mechanic!


I first came across it in the 1960s when as this 'miracle liquid' (I think made from fish oil?) was issued to spray into aircraft plug and sockets to disperse any moisture, and protect against any further ingress.

In the 1970s it became a problem to me when our 'Maintenance Teams' used it as a cleaning fluid all the and sprayed all the dirt and crud further into the moving parts, or used it instead of oil to lubricate parts.

Beware the 'basic' WD40 is not a lubricant, so if used to free up parts they need to be cleaned and lubricated if necessary.

On the other hand, it does do a great job of making the plastic bits of my conservatory look like new.

WD40

It took them 40 attempts to get their water displacing formula to work, but on the 40th attempt, they got it right in a big way. WD-40 Multi Use Product was born. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That’s the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product.

https://www.wd40company.com/our-company/ou...20formula. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #442534 13th Jun 2024 8:28 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 3107

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Bobupndown wrote:
If you have a blow lamp melt the plastic covering the brake pipe and scrape it away from around the fitting, apply heat to the joint itself and spray a decent release oil on it while it's hot. Attempt to loosen the joint by carefully turning it backwards and forwards alternately. Use a proper brake pipe spanner, not an ordinary open ended one to give you maximum grip on the fitting with less chance of rounding it off.
If that doesn't succeed then it's cutting and replacing a part of brake pipe.


I did a bit of helicopter renovation at the museum when I retired, and I found that a good way of removing screws, bolts and pipe fittings was to use Penetrating Oil on item, leave for a couple of days at least, then carefully try to TIGHTEN before undoing, as this quite often prevents rounding of the hexagon faces of the bolt/nut.
I was careful not to try too hard on the first attempt, but would after cleaning the the joint up a bit, repeat the penetrating oil, wait, tighten, undo procedure.

This method also works well on slotted screws.

It was important to try to preserve items as you cant buy spares for 50yr+ helicopters. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Post #442535 13th Jun 2024 8:44 am
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Mel



Member Since: 29 Feb 2024
Location: West Mids
Posts: 81

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Best penetrating oil is 50% ATF and 50% Acetone shake well before use.

Post #442536 13th Jun 2024 9:30 am
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 

Thanks all. I’ll get some better fluid and heat. Will also try removing the coating on the pipe as suggested.

Will keep you posted. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442538 13th Jun 2024 9:49 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4947

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

@Chuck...

Its a few years since I did mine.

The clip slides off (yellow) and releases the connector from the support.

The flexible hose has a swaged end (green) which is not removed from the flexible hose.

The nut (red) unscrews from the flexible hose end and should rotate around the brake pipe which had a standard flared end.

BUT the nut is often fused to the brake pipe due to corrosion and turning the nut twists and buckles the brake pipe. I had to replace two of my brake pipes when I replaced all my four flexible hoses.




I bought genuine replacement brake pipes as they came with all the right bends and attachments and werent too expensive.

Also do not let all the brake fluid run out so that air gets into the ABS unit. I put a rubber tube over the broken brake pipe and clamped it shut. Otherwise you have to bleed the ABS unit and you need to computer/software to do that to operate the internal valves.
Its all in the JLR bible. Jules

Post #442540 13th Jun 2024 1:00 pm
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Chuckalicious



Member Since: 23 May 2014
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 1796

United Kingdom 

Thanks Jules, that’s super helpful.

If the pipe needed cut, what’s the process of getting it all back together? Is that a garage job? FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Post #442542 13th Jun 2024 3:00 pm
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