The car was running well, got home from work and parked up.. the next day it was -7 outside and wouldn't start.. I assumed it was the cold weather and a glow plug problem..

went to work in the wife's car and all weekend have been trying to find out what the problem is..

why would it just not start in the morning.? why didnt it fault out on the way home.? (25 Miles)

This weekend I changed the Cam and Crank sensors as I carry spares and suspected these. I have previously ( 2 weeks ago) changed the Crank sensor Connector as the old one was damaged..

Deduced the Common rail pressure problem, but I suppose it could also be a defective pressure sensor not giving a good reading and thus affecting the PRV and dumping fuel.

Just as an update on mine... after some advice, I replaced both parts of the in tank sender unit and pot... no fix.

Reviewed the wiring harness again and couldn't see anything visible - but stripped the harness from the car to fully inspect and test - halfway through and nothing.

May have the ECU tested next.

Local garage with experience of Freelander 2s suggested that it could actually be the 'exhaust followers'

Any thoughts? Difficult job?

Just to recap... Car will cut out on idle / comming off revs or below 2000 ish. First fault logged is P0045-19 - but turbo has been replace... Secondary faults are low fuel rail pressure.

Current update on mine...

All working now..!

Self diagnosis with simple Bluetooth OBD reader..

Common rail fuel pressure was very low. A few experiments and found out it was the Pressure Control Valve.
Results were 250 to 500KPa (2.5 to 5 Bar) when it should be between 25000 and 140000KPa (25 to 140 Bar) depending on engine speed.
However I wasn't sure if it was the Signal to the valve or the Valve.
I took the Valve off and tested it directly to the 12V battery. it worked and i did this a few times to show a friend who had called around to help..
He had brought an oscilloscope to check the signal ( a standard Volt meter isn't fast enough to capture the signal.)

reattached the PCV and bled the system. Tightened everything up and turned over..

Hey presto - it started..

Applying the 12V constant voltage direct to the PCV must have freed up the coil and it started to work again.

no need to test with the oscilloscope.

tick-over gave 25000KPa

driving gives more.

Ordered another PCV off Ebay. will change when it arrives but currently running fine.!

photo shows tick-over and when driving..

Click image to enlarge

Cloudeater said

Hey presto - it started..

Applying the 12V constant voltage direct to the PCV must have freed up the coil and it started to work again.

Thanks for update, this is an interesting thought and may be worth adding to our list of fixes for fuel pressure problems.

(It reminds me of the turbo vane fix of exercising the mechanism often saves changing components) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Additionally... this could be done without removing the part and getting diesel everywhere, and you should be able to feel it clicking as the engine doesn't need to be on..
you just need some 2 core wire..

My plan is to keep the new part I have ordered in the car with the tools to change it and see if it becomes a problem again..

if it does - its a reasonably easy change. I did have to loosen the EGR pipe though to be able to remove the PCV..

Cloudeater,

Looking at your posts & diagnosis ……..well thought out …..always best to not jump to conclusions & think things through. Absolutely essential to have EBD code reader…..à decent one to be able to read, erase & recheck. Surprised how many owners come on to forum to ask for help when engine has conked-out & ask for possible reasons why, without having read codes, not having reader.

Anyway well done with the diagnosis/ repair….good work

Pete.