Hi folks. We're looking at buying a Freelander 2 of around 2010/60 reg and are getting contradictory info off Autotrader re the mpg. Some adverts for TD4e models under running costs show urban mpg of 33.2 but we've seen others non TD4e show 38 mpg, so we're a bit confused. Can anyone point us to a site we can rely on for mpg figures for Freelander 2s from around 2010, or actually tell what the official figures are. We know we'll never get the figure quoted but it would be useful to know what they were.
Separately is there anything we should be specifically looking/listening out for on a test drive? We're already checking for service and MOT histories and general condition.

Thanks in advance
Keith

I never take any notice of the “official” mpg figures. I know that my MY2007 TD4 manual did a real life average of 33 mpg over the 12 years I owned it. That’s calculated brim to brim often even using the same fuel pump at our local filling station.

I have to admit I’m amazed at some of the fuel consumption figures that people routinely seem to get. My 2008 Td4 auto (145k miles) rarely gets better than 27-28 mpg on average. On a couple of recent identical 100 mile round trips done on the same day (a Sunday, so lightish traffic and no traffic delays) where 80 miles of each round trip were dual carriageway or motorway and the other 20 were a mix of decent A class and pretty good B class roads, the dash readout at the end of the day (reset at the beginning of the day) was 31.6 mpg. I wouldn’t have exceeded 70-75 mph throughout the journeys.

How do people get mid 30s or better? Is there something wrong with my engine that I should be investigating?

i keep below 2000 revs, coast down hill, get into 6th gear asap (not labouring engine)so get 38 to 40 mpg,I used to carry out fuel consumption tests with customers who complained about poor consumption under Chrysler warranty's.i could drive and return 35 to 45 mpg,then reset fuel container designed to hold another litre for the customer,and because of their driving style they would usually never get anywhere near that figure.obviously there was the odd occasion wher there was an engine fault,but that would show on my initial test. ps mines a td4e

An interesting way to drive on a daily basis! With the auto, I doubt that it would change up below 2000 rpm - I find it likes to get to around 2200 when just accelerating ordinarily so that when it changes up it hits peak torque in the next gear (at the dreaded 1800 rpm, but that’s another matter!). I’m not sure that coasting down hill is a good idea and I’d never try it with the auto box as I doubt it would like it, nor would I like to try engaging Drive when moving at more than walking pace.

NOOOOOOO! Dont coast with an auto.there is strict procedure for flat towing auto freelanders,and coasting an auto is like flat towing.engaging drive would blow the box up i suspect!

I think with an auto you could keep it below 2000rpm with light throttle application.i believe the auto box adapts to the driver.my auto van(vw)does ,i can get that to change at just over 1500rpm,after a few miles of gentle driving.but if im rushing around ,it adapts and starts changing later. ie over 2000rpm.

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sid wrote:

NOOOOOOO! Dont coast with an auto.there is strict procedure for flat towing auto freelanders,and coasting an auto is like flat towing.engaging drive would blow the box up i suspect!

Exactement!

I really don’t think I could be bothered trying to drive so slowly/cautiously in order to get the gearbox to change up at such low revs. If I really wanted to save fuel I wouldn’t drive a two tonne Land Rover!I was just curious how folks get fuel consumption figures that are significantly better than I can get.

Thanks for the replies folks, but what I'm trying to get at are the actual official figures. On Autotrader there are "TD4"s and "TD4 e"s for sale with no consistency in the economy figures quoted, Did LR make changes to the engines of "TD4"s around 2010/2011 which made them more fuel efficient than the "e"s?

I think the TD4e is two wheel drive and has Stop Start which often seems to be more trouble than it’s worth.
TD4’s are intelligent four wheel drive, i.e. they automatically switch to four wheel drive as and when it’s needed.

It's fascinating how people don't see that in the same section they've posted a message with the title "MPG" exists a STICKY topic with the same subject, "MPG (DISCUSSION THREAD)" to post in...
Wonder why ?....
Why having a tidy up forum when we can have a cluttered one with eternal subjects like MPG, detailing, etc....
If you punch in the Search facility the letters MPG, you get about 5 (five!!) pages of results...

Alex, it’s because 99.9% of them are new members, have not been on forums before & just don’t understand how they work. I am on about 20 forums, mainly car/motorbike related ones & it is very common. A couple of said forums have very strict rules about starting new threads without doing a search for a pre existing thread & come down heavily on posters that don’t take note of the rules! (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

My now repaired TD4 SE manual does 37 MPG on the drive from my home in mid Cornwall, to the daughter's University in Cardiff.
Keeping the speedometer below 75 (73 actual speed) really helps, and if you are happy to keep the speedometer at 60, then the MPG would be over 40 MPG.
For comparison, my 8 mile daily commute, which includes 2 hard accelerations onto the A30, and some slow B road miles I get 26 MPG, so where you drive and how makes a big difference.

The manufacturers figures are basically rubbish, a rough guide only, as they're not real world figures. They are achieved on a rolling road, which isn't subject to hills or wind resistance, both of which are in abundance on a real road.

I'd be inclined to suggest that if a potential purchaser is worried about the difference in a few MPG between different sources, then a Freelander isn't the vehicle to own. It's a good car, but can spring an alarming repair bill at the most inopportune moment, which makes a few MPG variance inconsequential.
Just my opinion of course. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Kage wrote:

I think the TD4e is two wheel drive and has Stop Start which often seems to be more trouble than it’s worth.
TD4’s are intelligent four wheel drive, i.e. they automatically switch to four wheel drive as and when it’s needed.