OK, responses to a few points raised. First what I'm trying to do is get to know the FL models better than I do now before spending any money. That's not as easy as you might think when you're getting contradictory information. LR dealers don't want to talk to you because they want to sell new/late model cars not 10/12 yr old ones. I did do a search and saw the MPG topic with 57 pages in it and when I looked at that it seemed to be about owners personal mpg figures which is not what I want to get to know. I would rather not have to wade through 57 pages to find out (or not) what I want so thought I'd ask a specific question.

I know FLs can throw up a big repair bill but so can all modern cars-a neighbour with a 4/5 yr old VW he'd had since new developed a fault which VW wanted £1500+ to fix. I own a 13yr old Jaguar XF which hasn't been a minutes trouble in the 10 yrs I've owned it. You try to buy the best car you can by researching the model before you buy, look after it while you've got it and-to a certain extent trust to luck after that!

Everybody understands where you’re coming from KeithB, but to be perfectly honest MPG is the least of your worries. You need to specify what exactly you are looking for (age wise), & how much you are prepared to spend, as that will be what dictates what you will end up with. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Those 57 pages of owners personal mpg figures are exactly what you need to be looking at. They are real world, everyday use figures from us owners and what you are likely to achieve. Doesn't matter what manufacturers claim or dealers say.
My Sd4 real world average 33 mpg over many thousand miles. Light foot on a motorway run about 60-65 ,it can just touch 40 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

when im in a rush,driving like a racing driver it drops to 25mpg

Chaps, I am fully aware that real world figures and official figures will be different and no 2 drivers will get the same real world figures. I am trying to establish how the TD4e and the TD4 differ. What's the difference if any. It's just 1 variable which may or may not be significant. I'm not saying it's the only factor or even the most important factor, but until I can actually get accurate info how can I decide? I'm merely working on the basis that the more I know about a model the more likely I am to make a sensible decision, sensible for me that is.

If no-one knows the answer to the question I've asked-fine, I'll move on, but there's no point in discussing whether my question is a sensible 1 to ask-I've been buying cars long enough to be happy with the way I go about things. If you disagree that's your choice but it won't change the way I go about things

The difference between the TD4 and TD4e is the latter has a stop, start system, and slightly different mapping of the engine, which drops the power to 150BHP.
On the official tests, this makes the MPG appear much higher than it would otherwise be, simply because an amount of the official test is carried out while stationery.

In the real world, unless you're city driving, stop start doesn't help, and the reduced power is inconvenient. Once the engine has some wear, and the battery is less than brand new, stop start hardly works anyway, so it becomes a pointless addition.

Also factor in that the stop start battery costs twice as much as the standard battery, and the beefed up starter is more expensive too, then any minor fuel savings are simply absorbed by higher price replacement components, and that you'll potentially need to use full throttle more often, reducing real world MPG even more.

I personally wouldn't bother with the stop start, and got for a manual box will give you better MPG over the auto. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Thank-you Nodge68, that's helpful.

.....but it looks like Autotrader have the power and economy figures the wrong way round which isn't helpful at all. For non e models Autotrder give the power as 148bhp and the economy figures as 38/50/45 and for the e models as 158bhp and the economy figures as 33/49/42. The 0-62 times are quoted as the same at 11.7 secs despite the 150bhp engines having higher torque figures.
If the higher urban mpg is down to the s/s facility I can see that would be negated if it didn't work/you switched it off and would explain the only marginal difference in the extra urban figures. All of this would suggest that the e/non e factor isn't that important.

Out of the three Fl2's we've had the two Td4 manuals would never go below 30mpg in town , on a motorway we'd see middling 40's . The Sd4 would match the Td4 in town but would better them by 4/5mpg on a run . The Disco sport which replaced the Sd4 Fl2 is about on par as it has the same engine but the 9 speed box which I thought would help with economy on the motorway doesnt really tbh . Get the best Fl2 you can buy and don't worry about the fuel they are a 2 ton vehicle at the end of the day .

Mark 2009 FL2 TD4 SE (Sadly gone)
2007 FL2 TD4 GS (The wifes , gone after 8 great years)
2012 FL2 SD4 SPORT LE(Gone and missing it)
2015 DISCOVERY SPORT 2.2SD4 HSE (Now gone)
2014 Ford Bmax 1.0 ecoboost ( Gone but what next )
2014 Ford Focus 2.0tdci Zetec S (Gone,but what a car)
2020 Ford Fiesta ActiveX 1.0 Ecoboost
2024 Skoda Kodiaq 1.5 Tsi SEL

Bobupndown wrote:

Those 57 pages of owners personal mpg figures are exactly what you need to be looking at. They are real world, everyday use figures from us owners and what you are likely to achieve. Doesn't matter what manufacturers claim or dealers say.
My Sd4 real world average 33 mpg over many thousand miles. Light foot on a motorway run about 60-65 ,it can just touch 40

I think the type of tyres make more of a difference than anything else. I knocked 3mpg straight away when I went frim Avon ZX7 to an all terrain tyre.

It is important to have your tyres inflated to the correct pressures. If the pressure is down you will use more fuel, if the pressure is too high you loose that nice smooth ride and wear the tyres out quicker.

J

Had my FL2 2008 2.2 d for a week. Came over from N Wales to Whitby Yorkshire and got 44mpg combined. Around town and short journeys it does 38.4 mpg. This is on the vehicle computer so ????

So you’re doing well at 38.4

Petepython wrote:

Had my FL2 2008 2.2 d for a week. Came over from N Wales to Whitby Yorkshire and got 44mpg combined. Around town and short journeys it does 38.4 mpg. This is on the vehicle computer so ????