If you have severe corrosion on the rear discs then I'd say the rear capilers haven't been operating for some time. Otherwise the pads would have cleaned it off each day right? Or at least right up to the point when they broke.

Did you notice what the discs looked like over the last 10k miles, maybe when you washed the wheels or car? Has the corrosion been around for months or just the last few days?

I'd suggest the disc damage is more like a symptom than a cause, which I'd expect to be elsewhere in the brake ciircuit, possibly jambed caliper pistons or maybe at the servo end, or even possibly as suggested a cleaning product. 58 HSE, auto, lago grey, tints. Mine and my dogs Storm and Sky
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UPDATE
Car returned last night with the old discs and pads in a box. Now I actually can see the discs and pads I can say that the discs are not corroded, i.e. the braking surface on both sides of both discs is shiny. The problem is that the friction material, of which there seems to be at least 5mm left, has come away from the back plates due to the rivets having rusted on all four pads! Oddly the back of the pads do not look corroded at all. If I had to guess it appears water has been trapped between the friction material and the back plates and corroded the rivets. Never seen this on any other car (and I normally change pads myself so have seen a few). I would expect there to be some glue/selant between the pads and the friction material to prevent this. I still think this is a manufacturing issue.

I am waiting for LR customer services to come back to me, hopefully they will agree with my views. If not I guess I will be back at the supplying dealer. I am sure that the sale of goods act covers faults apperaing in the first 6 months. Off to google it now!

Thanks for the views, your support is appreciated. I always find these issues time consuming and deflating which detracts from enjoying the car.

That's a new one on me

Never heard of that before. Discs corroded yes. Discs worn due to rivets marking disc yes.
But corrosion between pad backplate and friction material ?????!???

Glad its not just me Snappa!

Just spoken to the supplying dealer to see if they have ever encountered this before - they have never heard of it. They also confirmed that when the PDA was carried out they didn't note any signs of excessive corrosion (although they wouldn't admit to anything else!)

Going to chase LR customer services shortly. Also just noticed that the first service (when it was a LR Management vehicle) wasn't carried out until 19k, 4k overdue. Right now I am wondering if there is some further grounds to go back to the dealer on - it was sold with full LR sh which means that it should have been serviced to the manufacturers requirements, which it hasn't.

Sometimes I wish I hadn't opened the can then I wouldn't find the (tin) worms!

FURTHER UPDATE

LR have just called and said that they cannot do anything towards the cost of the brake repairs but have offered to pay for our next service as compensation for our inconvenience! As the next service will cost £347 and the brakes cost £205 I have accepted this - excellent service! Might not be a moral victory (part of me wants LR to admit the parts were faulty) but that would be ungrateful.

I did point out that the description of the problem from the dealer was incorrect and that I have the parts. I suggested that LR inspect these anyway as it may be a safety issue that affects other users. As the car has done 30k it may be we have hit the problem before the majority of owners. They have agreed, so tomorrow I'll drop pads and discs to LR in reading for them to send to LR HQ. I'll ask that they keep me informed of the outcome and post back.

Once again thanks for all your input, greatly appreciated.

Only contribution I can make is car cleaning. My last car was a Merc C180 and Merc's handbook insists the car is driven after washing to avoid brake corrosion issues. The only reason I throw that into the discussion was that I washed my FL2 yesterday - quick run up street and parked on driveway (slopes a bit) and the rear brakes were well seized on to the disks this morning - took a fair bit of throttle in reverse to free them off so I'll be a lot more carefull in future - I can see if this happens frequently it could cause some damage if the friction materials aren't really well attached to the backplates. Brakes work fine after they freed off.



Grumpy Grumpy

or you could use a leaf blower to blow all the standing water of the car and the brakes at the same time  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

that leaf blower idea is very smart. Never tought of that

npinks wrote:

or you could use a leaf blower to blow all the standing water of the car and the brakes at the same time

hand brake is a separate drum brake in the rear hubs.... So Avtur tell us and I think he is correct (this once ) At work
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npinks wrote:

or you could use a leaf blower to blow all the standing water of the car and the brakes at the same time

.........and if you dont have a leaf blower use your hair dryer  2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

use an airline airgun  At work
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"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

whoops didnt mean that so its removed 2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

Last edited by AndyC on 2nd Apr 2009 7:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total

leaf blowers are good when drying your car

once you think its dry, go round all the windows and the mirrors and blow out all the standing water

ideal if your going on to polish it Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

As its my wife car and if she ever washes it it is in the car wash I don't think the pads not drying out is a problem - good thought though.

Took the pads and discs into Lancaster Reading to be sent to LR HQ for anlaysis. Noticed there were only 3 pieces of friction material and one of the pad backing plates had obviously been in contact with the disc which would explain the graunching noise. I gues the friction material must have broken up - good thing I didn't have to make an emergency stop as only one rear brake would have worked and I hate to think what may have happened.

Took some pictures of the pads, will try and post them later once I work out how to get the pictures off my phone!