I have put it back in the car & I'm tired of being a contortionist.

The red plastic clip in the orange plug pulls out, then there is access to a plastic retaining lug to unclip the contact to push it out. Really well designed. I just soldered a wire on the back of the contact. Just have to pop down to Jaycar to finish off the other end.

To prevent fuses blowing it's good to see what's inside a box that's off limits!

Click image to enlarge

Lightwater wrote:

I have always had issues with the boot power socket which has finally given up. Finally checked all the wiring (brown grey large). The problem is inside the fuse box between fuse F63 (40amp relay next to F63 removed) & pin for the wiring loom plug (plug removed).

The reason I replaced the the 12v socket (Ford), is that it was getting hot & was temperamental. This thread explains, photo further down the page showing the arcing https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33954.html

I replaced the Ford 12v outlet with an Anderson plug to have proper contacts. Secondly so power would not disconnect due to corrugated roads. Everything worked brilliantly.

At some point in time later I had the the circuit fail. Fuse was ok, tried a handful of fuses & tested them on the multimeter. So traced the wire back to the circuit board. Wire is ok. So the break is in the circuit within the fuse box. Probably a printed circuit has burnt out, but as the above photos show it will be inside the layered boards. Not something I was prepared to pull apart.

I have wired in a jumper lead but still haven't got around to connecting with an external fuse, but have at least bought an inline fuse. Haven't been away due to Covid, so have been doing other stuff like more acoustic insulation!

What does your cool box draw? The 14, 20 & 33 litre Waeco cool boxes each draw the same 46 watts, so about 3.8 amps, so hardly any stress on the circuit. Which incidentally is the same as the typical current on my 28 litre freezer when it needs to run. About 12 - 15 AH per 24 hours running it at fridge temperature of about 4˚C. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Thanks Lightwater
It would seem that I have a similar problem, and most likely need a new fusebox.
My Coolbox is 48W, therefore 4 amps, and although used regularly in this FL2 for over 3 years has never blown a fuse, although the luggage compartment plug/socket does has always got very hot when in use.

If I was braver, I am sure that a small piece of wire and some solder would mend the board, but (hopefully) I will let my warranty sort it out.

This is the first time I have ever had warranty work carried out, and I hope they provide a courtesy car while my car is with the dealer. -- Does anyone know if a loan car is in the extended warranty terms? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

“This is the first time I have ever had warranty work carried out, and I hope they provide a courtesy car while my car is with the dealer. -- Does anyone know if a loan car is in the extended warranty terms? “

What was the outcome may I ask?

Stealers are under no obligation to provide a loan car under any circumstances but if you ask nicely they will normally oblige