Having a few issues with my 57 plate 2.2

It kept going into limp mode with reduced engine performance, but as we could hear the turbo trying to spin it was diagnosed as a split hose - fairly common I am led to believe.

The outside of the short hose under the throttle body was absolutely caked in oil, and I also noticed a build up of oil and crap along the lower corner of the intercooler too. The intercooler was replaced, and I also replaced both the short and long pipe with silicone ones. I had a close look at the short pipe, and whist I could not see any splits, it almost felt as though the oil had "sweated" through it rather than leak through a crack.

A quick spin along the ring road, and it can now hit a decent speed, so I know that turbo is now working - no smoke, no noises etc.

However, it feels really "lacklustre" and down on performance - if I am driving around town say, and bouncing my foot on the throttle pedal, the engine does not seem to initially respond - it does accelerate, but only after a fashion and flooring it when pulling away from a roundabout means I am often overtaken.

Some have suggested to replace the throttle body itself - Does this seem a likely culprit? The throttle body does seem to have its own set of known faults, and replacement of this is about the same price as a diagnostic check around here - hence wondering if worth a go?

Could really do with some suggestions here as don`t know what else to try next

I took it to a Landrover centre and after a throttle body was fitted it would go into limp mode (no codes) when it was driven flat out. It was diagnosed as overboosting and going into some sort of protection mode to save the engine.

A recon turbo and actuator was fitted and now it seems to show P0299 UNDERBOOST when it gets really hot, and the engine again goes into a limp mode.

Do I have a faulty turbo with sticking vanes, or is there another sensor somewhere that could control and restrict the boost?

Pulling my hair out on this one

I can’t help way beyond me but I sympathise with you it would do my head in too.

Sounds very much like your MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. Doesn't always show a fault code and is relatively cheap to swap out.
Do a search on here and happy reading as you will get a lot of hits.

Jimmy 09 FL2 GS TD4e Current
16 DS HSE Black Current
13 FL2 GS TD4
11 FL2 GS TD4
10 FL2 XS TD4
56 FL1 TD4
72 S3, 6cyl 109 Truck Cab

Is that the one on the top of the throttle body?

As the recon turbo has introduced a new series of problems it may be at fault and a long and meaningful discussion may be needed with the supplier /fitter now as to what they intend to do to correct this.

One assumes when they fitted the throttle body they moved across a small rubber hole bung that is easily missed. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

MAP Part Number LR001324
Good photo in this post;
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8930-15.html

As YB says, check all your mechanic did. 09 FL2 GS TD4e Current
16 DS HSE Black Current
13 FL2 GS TD4
11 FL2 GS TD4
10 FL2 XS TD4
56 FL1 TD4
72 S3, 6cyl 109 Truck Cab

Dave DND wrote:

Is that the one on the top of the throttle body?

The Garage that fitted the turbo are being very helpful and I cannot fault their customer service, but they too are pulling their hair out.

Replacing the turbo and actuator made one hell of a difference, the car drove nicely for the first 15 miles - so I would assume that any bungs missing from the throttle body would have shown up immediately as a missing bung would surely not allow any boost pressure at all?

In my mind . . . Once engine really hot, either the actuator / vanes are sticking so that it cannot control the boost properly, or a sensor has failed and restricting the engine performance.

EGR unit also replaced - caked solid in crud and would not move

Yes the missing bung would show very quickly.

Have they tried since the road test to manually move the vanes lever and lubricated it with high temp lubricant at the same time. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Unsure if they have physically tried to move the vanes - I will ask them

I would imagine that to do that when the engine is roasting hot would be quite awkward as burning yourself would be a danger.

To understand this myself - if the vanes stick in the open position, I would be continually overboosting, and if they stuck in the closed position it would be underboosting ?

Does that mean that if they stuck halfway, it would just be lacklustre to drive, or is it not as simple as that?

With all you've said then I stick by trying the MAP sensor.
It's very close to where the EGR pipe connects to the throttle body and if the old MAP was just transferred to your new body then there is a potential of it being damaged internally when it got removed as well as being caked up? They are just a diaphragm which can crack and degrade over time.

You might be able to do a deal with Y Bob for his spare one...  09 FL2 GS TD4e Current
16 DS HSE Black Current
13 FL2 GS TD4
11 FL2 GS TD4
10 FL2 XS TD4
56 FL1 TD4
72 S3, 6cyl 109 Truck Cab

Yeah, just googled the MAP sensor and it also is called "Boost pressure sensor" by many as well

I will try that next and report back

Thanks for help so far guys, much appreciated

Dave it should be a service item !

Lubricate and move the lever when lower cover is off and engine could be hot or cold as on a lift you can reach them without any expectation of going to A&E.

As for boost I guess it depends if the lever is stuck shut or open, just one more thing to rule in or out FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current