try the turbo actuator arm is moving free .While pressing with your finger, move the variable geometry turbocharger drive mechanism to make sure there is enough stroke. Move 10-20 times to ensure sufficient movement. spray with some wd40 then grease arm joints with high temp grease

Hi all,

I've had this issue on and off the past 6-8 months on my 2008 SE

Pretty similar symptoms to everyone here. It went away on its own for a while but out of nowhere came back - became fairly regular, usually just one 'jerk' episode when the engine is still cold from being left overnight, taking off at the lights and then it's happy days after that. Ambient temp here in Melbourne when it started happening again recently has been 8° - 18°C.

Last weekend I did a couple things:

1) Took out the Crank Sensor - i intended on replacing this but was shipped the wrong part by a local retailer, so i just cleaned the contacts on the pins and put it back on. I am still planning on changing this if I can get my hands on the right part.

2) I saw on another thread here that some people had success after changing the pedal (of all things). So i bought a replacement part from LR Direct and swapped it over - RHD 6 speed auto all apparently use the same part - LR031903)

sova287 wrote:

Hallo,
is there any fix? I try to replace the throttle pedal but without change,
all winter the car ride smoothly (temperature to 10 degrees), but now is temperature +14-15 degrees and level hesitation between 1500-1700 rpm he's here again
the problem ill record on video last summer:
I do not know what to do

vin code: SALFA2BC5EH395434

Well - I thought I'd update this for the sake of completeness.
Took car to local Landrover Specialist.

Played audio of the "pcha" "pcha" noise and 2 guys completely independently said it sounded like it was related to the turbo but they'd never heard anything like it before.

All sensors were completely normal - no errors logged.

Eventually they were able to reproduce it with various logging kit plugged in - including a pressure sensor in the air duct twixt filter box and MAF sensor.

They found that when the engine made that noise there was a spike in back pressure in the duct. This - they surmised - was being caused by the butterfly valve. Disconnecting valve - noise gone. So the throttle body was replaced and I then drove home 21C loads of stop start light throttle and nary a squawk!

The sound itself always seemed to come from around the gearbox area because that's where the inlet pipe is - and so that's where the engine was farting - literally. The butterfly was acting independently in some way and so turbo pressure was venting back through the inlet!

OK it was not cheap - but car is now a pleasure to drive.

Sound like a useful garage, thanks for reporting back.  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Spoke too soon. One day it's all better, next its back to squawk and stutter!!!!!!

OK, possibly not as bad as before but still a pain.

OK at least I know what it isn't.

The big question that is still elusive is why it is temperature related. Drove 40 miles this morning at around 10C on mway then 8.30am town traffic. Didn't miss a beat.

Came back 2 hours later 20C. Stop at mway roundabout and then pulling away - IT'S BACK!!

Sometimes the engine feels as if it's revving freely and all is well. Other times it feels choked in some way.

I wonder if there is some kind of temperature sensitive air flap or something similar in the inlet train? Whatever it is - and going by others' comments air temp is a big factor in this.

After 7 years of frustration with this problem, maindealers , independent specialists, etc,etc, and countless unnecessary parts,there isn’t a solution on the horizon. Would never have another Landrover, life is to short. Toyota next time . One thing i do know, the problem started on exiting from main dealer after service that included fuel filter. i still think its fuel related, maybe air in the lines , but everyone says it would not run with a blockage, and why is air temp so critical to the problem . No trouble all winter months . MAF censor cured it for half a day , as did sealing the air filter box with gaffer tape , hoping to cure any leak that may have been giving the MAF censor a false reading. Tried running with no fuel filler cap, as there always seems a bit of suction when removing the cap. Fuel cleaners seem to help, but only for a matter of days, maybe have to try new injectors, but i think its time to say good riddance to this, the worst car i have ever owned. Haldex pump, fuel gauge rewired, (another problem that every freelander suffers sooner or later, it seems) and a front brake calliper all sorted this year so far. Was told a new battery may cure problem as faulty batteries can appararantly cause all sorts of problems . As it was the original battery i thought ok , it may prevent a non start next winter .Well it did make the stop/start work, something that had very seldom worked in the past, now it performs perfectly.

Dear I have the same problem(hesitation) in my freelander2 2011.But I realized something mine in not hesitation when the weather conditions hot (over 30 celsius).It runs perfectly.When it comes to cold weather especially during morning time when the car was cold it hesitates while stopping on the lights.When engine gets warm.Hesitation is over.There is something related with this issue but Im still suffering.
How is the weather down there.does your car make hesitation when engine temperature is hot ?

Just bought a Freelander 2 2011 GS Auto from a dealer and it is making the noise as shown in the video above when pulling away slowly sometimes. Seems to be only when heated up. When it doesn't do it, I hear a whooshing sound as is apparently normal with the FL2 when pulling away in lower gears. It is about this time the sound appears.

Reading this thread, I'm not sure whether to keep the vehicle or reject it for a refund as I'm still within the 30 day period.

What does everybody think of the solution in this thread regarding the throttle pedal?

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16502-165.html

Last edited by cbfks on 5th Oct 2019 9:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I’d reject it and walk away from LR full stop, it’ll cost you a fortune, not to mention the stress.

This is my thinking - Just had a freelander 1 pack up on me and thought spending £10k on a newer one would give me a stress free life. 7 days later and I already have an unsolvable problem. Very annoyed to say the least. But what if the dealer can't replicate the problem....

@oguzcan selam, muhtemelen westgate basıncı dışarı atarken oluşan bir ses, forumlarda turbo selenoid valfi değiştirerek çözen birisine rastladım, arıza - hata kodu vermiyordu ama ebayden o parçayı sipariş ettim, bir hafta on gün sonra değiştirdiğimde çözülürse buradan yazarım

hi everybody, same sound, i'm going to change turbo pressure valve ( LR017782 ) . if it gets better, i will write

Try replacing the throttle pedal with a new one, that has fixed it for others and i'm ordering a new one for mine tomorrow.

Do please let us know how you get on.