Seems to be that not all Freelys are the same, mine has never displayed the Coil, yet I do get the message in the display regarding "cranking will start etc" the slight delay and it starts fine in the cold weather, last year I never had the message regarding cranking but had the slight delay from pressing start to cranking starting but mentioned it to the dealer after reading a thread on here last year and now get the cranking message but still no coil, perhaps other precautions are being taken

Sounds to me like different levels of firmware  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

Just an update on my status

-8c today and had problems again, followed procedure, got the message saying Cranking will begin after warm up period, cranking started for about 10 seconds, no start, same again no start, then cut out couple of times.

Took key out, waited for power down, started again, same Cold cranking message then finally another 10 seconds of cranking and it started very limply with quite a lot of white smoke but after idling badly for a while it seemed fine, drove it fine and now restarts without hesitating?

Couple of questions.

my glow light came on for literally 2 seconds, is this long enough? If i take the key out and start again a few times am i effectively forcing more warming of the plugs, if i dont take the key out every subsequent start request is immediate?

Is it worth getting new spark plugs fitted anyway, how likely could this be my problem? Im in France and dont speak french so feel a bit lost at the garages?

Cheers for the help
Anthony

tonyk28 wrote:

Just an update on my status

-8c today and had problems again, followed procedure, got the message saying Cranking will begin after warm up period, cranking started for about 10 seconds, no start, same again no start, then cut out couple of times.

Took key out, waited for power down, started again, same Cold cranking message then finally another 10 seconds of cranking and it started very limply with quite a lot of white smoke but after idling badly for a while it seemed fine, drove it fine and now restarts without hesitating?

Couple of questions.

my glow light came on for literally 2 seconds, is this long enough? If i take the key out and start again a few times am i effectively forcing more warming of the plugs, if i dont take the key out every subsequent start request is immediate?

Is it worth getting new spark plugs fitted anyway, how likely could this be my problem? Im in France and dont speak french so feel a bit lost at the garages?

Cheers for the help
Anthony

Hi Tony

the fact that there was a lot of "white smoke" points to non-functioning glow plugs. Have the glow plugs checked and replaced where necessary.

As already pointed out, glow plugs don't show up in the fault codes. So therefore it is back to the old OHM meter.  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

^^ What George said.
I think the reason that it eventually starts is that the friction from the start process heats up the cylinders enough for it to start just on compression........Might be wrong  FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

Conform with tribology laws, a small film of oil remains on the cylinder walls even after switch off.
For two metals that are in contact and by friction to produce heat there must be no lubrication.
And, in extremis, if/for the piston rings and cylinder walls to heat up by friction at startup will mean that that engine will wear in a matter of months.
Indeed at firsts piston movements that film of oil is eliminated, but it is compensated with the unburned fuel (the engine doesn't start, right) that it's injected inside cylinders. So there is always a little lubrication at startup, therefore this (friction) is not the cause.
The heat is made by the repeated compressions of the air during the diesel cycles/strokes. Heat that slowly warm up the combustion chamber until finaly the combustion could take place.

^^ Haha nice! Just what I was thinking......I just wouldn't tell you.......

Thanks Alex. FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

alex_pescaru wrote:

Conform with tribology laws, a small film of oil remains on the cylinder walls even after switch off.
For two metals that are in contact and by friction to produce heat there must be no lubrication.
And, in extremis, if/for the piston rings and cylinder walls to heat up by friction at startup will mean that that engine will wear in a matter of months.
Indeed at firsts piston movements that film of oil is eliminated, but it is compensated with the unburned fuel (the engine doesn't start, right) that it's injected inside cylinders. So there is always a little lubrication at startup, therefore this (friction) is not the cause.
The heat is made by the repeated compressions of the air during the diesel cycles/strokes. Heat that slowly warm up the combustion chamber until finaly the combustion could take place.

Hi Alex

you have just given one of the most important reasons, why 2sO is so good for lubrication of injection components and even cylinder walls in a cold engine.  With kind regards
DiscoGeorge
1998 Disco1 ES 300Tdi with twin TrueTracs
2005 Disco3 TDV6 S
And some more serious stuff

Well had my glow plugs done by a 4x4 garage in Leeds yesterday, they had never done them before on a fl2. It took longer than expected but they honoured the quote, it's going though a 3rd party warranty anyway. They found one plug to be defective but changed them all. Am I right in thinking they are only £9 each? Car starting fine but it allways did in normal temp. Does anyone think the one non working glow plug would be the cause of my starting problems? I'll update after cold weather, don't think I've got long to wait!!

I'm not aware of any large scale bluetooth problems although there's always someone somewhere who tries it with the wrong phone and then complains!!
The perfect solution is to provide the phone with the car. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Pegleg wrote:

I'm not aware of any large scale bluetooth problems although there's always someone somewhere who tries it with the wrong phone and then complains!!
The perfect solution is to provide the phone with the car.

say what now?!?!  FL2, TD4 HSE
The flaming Orange!

Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen!
My name is Ivan.
I live in Moscow.
This summer my wife and I bought a Land Rover 2007 Land Rover Freelander 2 HSE TD4
We live in a cold climate, the fact that he just does not work-10C.

I would like to understand what is happening?
I can not understand why this is happening?
I love my Land Rover Freelander 2
This is a very good tractor in the summer when warm.
But with the advent of very small cold, something happens and it does not work.
I took a tow truck and dragged him to the service.
There, in a warm room, it starts and runs.
As soon as I leave it on the street until the morning.
This is a problem.
What can you advise me to do?
Thank you.
Sincerely, Ivan I'm sorry.
I did not know how to properly speak English.

Try the 2 steps starting procedure: Without pressing the clutch (or the brake, if automatic) press and hold the start button until the instrument cluster lights come on. Wait about 10-15 seconds. Then press the clutch (or brake, if automatic) and press the start button again to start the engine.

If no improvements, then the glow plugs must be defective. I believe that, if the car invariably refuses to start below -10C, then all glow plugs are defective. Try to verify and change the glow plugs. For sure, in your cold climate, after almost 4 years, more than one are/is defective.
Or maybe their fuse is blown. Check fuse no. 4 from the box in the engine compartment. Fuses 3, 4 and 5 have a small cover on them. Remove the small cover first, then check it.

I have started in -25C several times. But it may take a while before the engine turns on. The preheating period may take up to 30 seconds, -maybe more if it is very cold.

So step on the clutch or brake (manual / auto), press the start/stop-button, and sit back and wait. Read the paper, or whatever, -but just wait. Watch the display to see what is happening, -what progress is taking place.

It should start sooner or later.

If not, service is needed. Maybe it is required to change diesel-filter, plugs or something.

But try to wait first, to see if perhaps it starts if you are just patient enough. The FL2 is fantastic in the winter in my opinion. 2008 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Automatic, Caspian Blue, Alpaca, Moon roof, Exclusive pack.

alex_pescaru wrote:

Try the 2 steps starting procedure: Without pressing the clutch (or the brake, if automatic) press and hold the start button until the instrument cluster lights come on. Wait about 10-15 seconds. Then press the clutch (or brake, if automatic) and press the start button again to start the engine.

If no improvements, then the glow plugs must be defective. I believe that, if the car invariably refuses to start below -10C, then all glow plugs are defective. Try to verify and change the glow plugs. For sure, in your cold climate, after almost 4 years, more than one are/is defective.
Or maybe their fuse is blown. Check fuse no. 4 from the box in the engine compartment. Fuses 3, 4 and 5 have a small cover on them. Remove the small cover first, then check it.

Here a moot point. Spiral me off at startup, the computer is silent. And if at least one candle is out of order, then flew to "Check-Engine" and is constantly burning. But it is not.  I'm sorry.
I did not know how to properly speak English.