One thing I have noticed on 3 or 4 occassions since driving this auto which has quite surprised me is that when I put my foot right to the floor (either in Sport or just "vanilla" Drive), the box actually kicks-down too far into too low a gear, so rather than get acceleration you find yourself in a gear that's already doing the most it can, before it then changes up a gear after a couple of seconds and gives you some acceleration.

Not very handy when you're trying to make the most of a short overtaking stretch; you indicate, pull out, foot down, and nothing for several seconds apart from a lot of revs and noise from the engine.

Anyone else suffered this?

I noticed this at the landrover experience when i drove the auto on the road

The instructor said from a standing start left foot brake then release the clutch when the cars revs reach 2000rpm, then the torque drive engages. This makes it a bit more lively.

Obviously doesn't help during overtaking though

NightFox wrote:

One thing I have noticed on 3 or 4 occassions since driving this auto which has quite surprised me is that when I put my foot right to the floor (either in Sport or just "vanilla" Drive), the box actually kicks-down too far into too low a gear, so rather than get acceleration you find yourself in a gear that's already doing the most it can, before it then changes up a gear after a couple of seconds and gives you some acceleration.

Not very handy when you're trying to make the most of a short overtaking stretch; you indicate, pull out, foot down, and nothing for several seconds apart from a lot of revs and noise from the engine.

Anyone else suffered this?

Especially when somebody towing a caravan overtakes you.

Quote:

a caravan overtakes you.

One of the least used phrases in the English language

waaxh03 wrote:

...a caravan overtakes you.

npinks wrote:

from a standing start left foot brake then release the clutch when the cars revs reach 2000rpm, then the torque drive engages.

I think there's a mistake in there somewhere...

the c word and i don`t mean c n

Yes, I've had this too - a bit alarming first time. However, transferring to command shift beforehand (assuming one has the anticipation of needing extra oomph) gets one out of whatever situation pretty swiftly, in fact I'd say remarkably adeptly.
It does appear that there is a design fault there in the 6-speed auto-box, but it will work ok if the clog doesn't go to the floor; sometimes a bit difficult to judge in the heat of the moment.

NightFox wrote:

npinks wrote:

from a standing start left foot brake then release the clutch when the cars revs reach 2000rpm, then the torque drive engages.

I think there's a mistake in there somewhere...

MMMmmm please exchange the word "clutch" with "brake"

Though, my LRE instructor said there was a anti-stall device/program that even in a manual FL2 would work, he said it was very usefull when towing something heavy (like a caravan)

He said something along the lines of setting rev's to 2000 rpm and just dump the clutch, the car would be at optimal rev's to convert to torque and would save the clutch from burning, which takes 3000mile to wear back in.

Haven't tried it yet but i will

npinks wrote:

Though, my LRE instructor said there was a anti-stall device/program that even in a manual FL2 would work, he said it was very usefull when towing something heavy (like a caravan)

He said something along the lines of setting rev's to 2000 rpm and just dump the clutch, the car would be at optimal rev's to convert to torque and would save the clutch from burning, which takes 3000mile to wear back in.

Haven't tried it yet but i will

I would suggest you don't, setting 2000 rpm and dumping the clutch is not very very kind to the car, though will keep LR in business supplying new clutches and drive line components. I find the car is amazingly capable of moving off with minimal clutch slip (even when loaded and/or towing) I believe this is likely to result in a very good clutch life.

The anti stall works when the engine is at tickover and when there is no contact with any of the pedals; I've tried mine extensivley and it works very well. Select first gear feet off everytihng and it'll climb better than 1in4 wihout assistance. It is designed to keep you moving at low speed especially off road. I have towed my (ssssh ...caravan) several hundred miles and don't feel that the anti stall has anything to offer in that regard.

Quote:

The anti stall works when the engine is at tickover and when there is no contact with any of the pedals

I think most diesel engine vehicles do that without any gizmo's due to the torque of the engine, my old pug 306 did it and there were no fancy gizmo's on there..........................but I could be wrong  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
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avtur wrote:

npinks wrote:

Though, my LRE instructor said there was a anti-stall device/program that even in a manual FL2 would work, he said it was very usefull when towing something heavy (like a caravan)

He said something along the lines of setting rev's to 2000 rpm and just dump the clutch, the car would be at optimal rev's to convert to torque and would save the clutch from burning, which takes 3000mile to wear back in.

Haven't tried it yet but i will

I would suggest you don't, setting 2000 rpm and dumping the clutch is not very very kind to the car, though will keep LR in business supplying new clutches and drive line components. I find the car is amazingly capable of moving off with minimal clutch slip (even when loaded and/or towing) I believe this is likely to result in a very good clutch life.

The anti stall works when the engine is at tickover and when there is no contact with any of the pedals; I've tried mine extensivley and it works very well. Select first gear feet off everytihng and it'll climb better than 1in4 wihout assistance. It is designed to keep you moving at low speed especially off road. I have towed my (ssssh ...caravan) several hundred miles and don't feel that the anti stall has anything to offer in that regard.

UKdave104 wrote:

Quote:

The anti stall works when the engine is at tickover and when there is no contact with any of the pedals

I think most diesel engine vehicles do that without any gizmo's due to the torque of the engine, my old pug 306 did it and there were no fancy gizmo's on there..........................but I could be wrong

Agree with you about diesel characterisitcs, but they reckon the anti stall feeds in a small amount of throttle repsonse to maintain tick over under a certain amount of load. The most extreme condition I tried with my car was with a load of about 600kgs of sand and cement (inside the car) and at tickover it climbed better than 1 in 4 without any assistance

Another way of demonstrating it is leave the car in 6th (manual) and take your feet off the pedals, it'll run very smoothly at 30mph. Don't expect much response if you try accelerating though!