My FL2, when moving, if you put it in Neutral ( it is a manual!) the engine revs stay around 1100 until the car is stopped, then return to normal 750 mark. you can feel it if you stay in gear as you have to break against the engine

Caffyns in Lewis say this is normal


Also, if the outside temperature is around very cold say -2 then the reverse hapens and the car will splutter and almost stall

I think it is not expected behavior - any thoughts people pls? 

Crap, it's not normal, either have it out with them or find another dealer if they stick to their guns.

Ticktock wrote:

Crap, it's not normal, either have it out with them or find another dealer if they stick to their guns.

My thoughts - however

LR just called me back, and said the idel speed whilst moving is tied to a sensor, and expected to be circa 1100 for numerous reasons inc avoiding clunky gera changes

grrrrr

Not convinced - does anyone else have a manual FL2 and fancies doing a little test? 

Fairly sure mine doesn't do that. There was a version of ECU firmware (always with the firmware!) that would cause the idle revs to be very slow to return to 750rpm. This used to annoy me and I had an upgrade last year which solved it.
I'm out later today so will double check behaviour when coasting. Suspect you need a different ECU firmware.

I've hot one, but live a little far away from you. LR Customer Services speak a good story, but have little substance or rather thats what I found.

Probably of no help but I have noticed on other cars with a black box that when moving the engine idle speed will stay higher than normal. I always put this down to the fact that its having to drive more things to keep it going (PAS etc etc)

Next time I'm in my automatic I'll give it a go and see what it does Freelander 2 TD4 Auto, SE, Narvik Black, Alpaca full leather, Rear Headrest Entertainment System, 6 CD, 18 HSE Wheels, Privicy tints

Our auto only returns to idle when the engine isn't fully up to temperature, and when it is only when below about 10-15mph, but it goes to less than 1000 rpm. (when the engine's fully up to temperature the clutch locks up, and I've never put it in neutral whilst moving!)

Take it somewhere else, and when they tell you that there's a problem and have fixed it, write to Auto Express about the service from your original dealer...that'll teach them to treat you that badly! Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County

My VW Golf does exactly this, I'm agreeing with charrodine on the fact that it has to drive the steering pump etc, doesn't the brake servo work off vacuum pressure from the inlet (Well it did on my Viva anyway ) so maybe the revs have to be marginally higher to keep brake servo assistance.
I think it's OK.

The idle speed on mine sometimes slows right down & it feels like it is going to stall but I have decided to live with it as in my experience with everything else it that it is simply a waste of time taking it too a dealer. (Past) Freelander 2 HSE 2010 MY In Rimini Red.
(Past) RR Evoque Dynamic Lux Si4 In Firenze Red.
(Past) RR Evouque Pure Tech in Barollo Black with bespoke Firenze Red colour coding.
(Present) Freelander Metropolis 2015 MY In Santorini Black with Ivory Premium Leather.

Awwwwww EV, always with the negative vibes......you must like it a tiny bit as you've kept it - and surely it does a great job of advertising your valeting business

Big Dave wrote:

Our auto only returns to idle when the engine isn't fully up to temperature, and when it is only when below about 10-15mph, but it goes to less than 1000 rpm. (when the engine's fully up to temperature the clutch locks up, and I've never put it in neutral whilst moving!)

Torque converter autos, as on LR's (ignore the fancy double clutch transmissions as they're different) work in 2 ways. 1 is to basically use a turbine, spraying oil onto a fan is the best way I can explain it, to make the car start moving, 2 is that when the car is moving fast enough for the engine not to stall, and when the rev's are in the correct range for power/economy etc, a physical clutch locks the transmission, like letting the clutch out in your car. This gives better throttle control and economy whilst moving, but no.1 gives better control at low speeds. Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County

My 07 manual doesn't do this, but I've noticed that if I brake to a stop in neutral the engine comes close to stalling. I can well imagine that they've introduced software to keep the revs a little higher to deal with the requirements of braking, steering etc.
One of the things you learn for the HGV test is that a diesel truck should never be allowed to coast in neutral, but this should not affect a LR!

Executive Valeter wrote:

The idle speed on mine sometimes slows right down & it feels like it is going to stall but I have decided to live with it as in my experience with everything else it that it is simply a waste of time taking it too a dealer.

EV you love it on here, that's why you have'nt sold it yet

There are 2 separate issues here:
1. Engine idle speed when coasting, and
2. Engine idle speed dropping to a near stalling rate.

With my manual transmission variant, the engine idle speed will fall to 900-1000rpm within 2 seconds while coasting, and to 750-800rpm within 5 seconds, so I can confirm that the behaviour that 'pcheaven' is experiencing is different.

About 18 months ago my FL2 would almost stall occasionally when taking the foot off the accelerator (eg. coming to rest at a junction). The dealer updated the ECU firmware and the problem was solved but I then lost around 5mpg economy. They uploaded another version during a service and all was well.

I'm fairly confident that both these issues are ECU firmware related. There are many versions of this - I believe my own FL2 has run with at least 4. The difficulty is ascertaining which is the better one. One might expect the latest one is the better but who knows?